Remove and reinstall CIS intake runners 1 and 2

[schoward]

I am seeking to remove and reinstall my #1 and #2 intake runners with the CIS and engine in car as part of replacing injector seals and sleeves. I suspect a small piece of injector sleeve debris fell into the head on #2 when removing the injectors sleeves/seals which were all unbelievably brittle and crumbly on the 1-2-3 side.

The fit is very tight to get the runners off without cutting the boots it seems. I get some wiggle but not enough to clear the studs - not even close. I have removed the WUR etc to get access. Of course I could cut the boots and I have new ones on hand, but if it's too tight to get the runners off without cutting, how will I get the runners and boots back on with new boots which cannot be cut?? With the the new boots, can I shove them up the runner a little more to give me the wiggle room to drop the runners back on then move the boot into position?

I know people have done this and #1 and #2 are the easist it seems. I have searched and found posts on getting these things off, but no detail on the question above in terms of getting back on.

Thanks in advance.

[gomezoneill]

I would remove the entire system and do all the little things that need attention. I would do a partial engine drop to access all the areas. There's a technical blog on this website that will show you how to preform the engine drop. I would reseal the case vent cover, replace the oil light sender and check all the hoses for dry cracks. You can check the air box for cracks too. Would be a good time to replace the sound pad on the firewall if needed.

[schoward]

Found a post from jason2guy where it references sliding the boots on the runners past the point where they usually sit then sliding into place when all is lined up. Hopefully that enables me to get the wiggle room needed. If any additional thoughts or tips, I am all ears.

If this does not go well then will probably pull the whole thing, but for now I want to get away with this tactical repair which is the only issue I am really facing and enjoy some remainder of the driving season, leaving the full boat review for when the motor is out next.

[KyMitch]

Yup, what gomez said. It can be a can of worms, but worth it in the end. Weather your utilizing the entire lambda system, or going more of a hot rodded route, one little fault on a cis system can be like a dime holding up a dollar.

[gazzerr]

No need to cut the boots. Loosen the clips up and with a bit of wiggling they come out. You can use a plastic spudge like that used to remove interior trim to get it started. They can get pretty stuck from the heat cycles.

Careful of the threads on the studs that hold the runners down. You can strip metal off them and it can fall into the intake. Stuff the hole immediately when you remove the runner. If you drop anything down there you're in for a world of hurt.

Pull all the runners and tap the injector seats out from behind. Then there's no risk of getting crumbs in the engine.

I did the whole system with the engine in the car and it was doable but a pain. I'd recommend a partial drop and it's pretty easy. Like jason2guy did you install with everything loose then tighten it all up and everything will line up. The number 5 & 6 runners are the worst. Because of the way the clips line up you need to install and tighten those first before you install the nuts back on the intake. It takes a few tries to get it lined up properly sometimes.

[schoward]

Perfect - thank you. Yeah after 20 years or so the boots are hard as rocks. Will work them patiently I guess. Good tip on intake stud filings. I will take a swipe thru with my little pencil magnet before lifting off the runners.

[boyt911sc]

Scott,

Where are you in NJ (zip code). There are several ways to remove and install the complete CIS unit. You could do in situ, a partial engine drop, or complete engine removal. So you have decide which method you prefer to follow.

I have a home-made jig where you could pre-assemble the complete CIS unit and have the complete unit moved to the engine for final assembly. But I only work with the engine out from the engine bay. Will be more than happy to lend you this contraption.

Tony

[Nux]

I recommend unbolting the entire CIS without dropping the engine. Just remove all bolts from the intake runners, loosen gas and vacuum hooses, and disconnect WUR etc. Nr 5 and 6 can be a little tricky to reach.

I've done it several times (blown airbox). It's a 45 min job with engine in car ('78 SC no air con).

[gazzerr]

The '80's and up cars are harder. The later CIS components are positioned in such a way that you can't get to the back of the motor at all.

[schoward]

Thanks all - if I pull the CIS I will have to do it via a partial drop. I don't have the room or likely all the tools to do a full drop. I know I could do a partial. Tony, I am central NJ on the shore 07704 and thank you for the offer. You are always helpful via your posts. Since the WUR is out I am going to test the resistance and the pressures once it goes back in, so I may need your expertise.

I was planning to wrestle with the first two intake runners and see how I feel and go from there If it feels futile. As much as I want this done asap and was hoping this would this be quick, I am going to take my time before I hastily screw up and perhaps make things worse. Some of it will be a confidence builder to keep going

[gazzerr]

Here's a good thread from when I was going through it with a bunch of other Pelicans. Partial drop works well just take your time, photograph and keep an inventory of every nut, bolt and washer.

Air leakage from intake manifold sleeves

G.