Pulling the Motor - WHAT SHOULD I DO WHILE ITS OUT??
 

Hey Guys,
My new to me 77 911 S needs a new clutch. My mechanic is gonna pull the motor and install the clutch for me. What should I look at and check on while the motor is pulled? Fuel lines? I am not looking to spend even more money but while its out....
Thanks of any tips

Here is a pic of my project when she was unloaded from the car carrier a few weeks ago:

Shanehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1474498920.jpg

Shane,

Lots of stuff is much easier with the motor out, of course it all costs money. If I was looking at bang for buck, I would probably replace all the vacuum lines, gaskets and seals on the CIS if you have any doubts about vacuum leaks on the car.

Apparently the large hose that goes to the brake booster is prone to rotting out and is difficult to replace with engine in place, so that might be a good bet to replace.

Here's a list I followed, credit to the original poster, whoever it was....

- Replace CIS vac lines
- check wire ends in engine wire harness and grounds (clean or replace as necessary)
- check for vac leaks (intake runner boots, airbox, etc)
- use Stage8 locking fasteners on the axle when putting back in the car
- classic "triangle of death" oil leaks (thermostat, crankcase breather gasket, oil pressure sensor)
- oil level sender gasket on tank
- oil level sender work?
- fuel injector o-rings and injector sleeves (another vac leak source)
- check the green wire on the dizzy
- new cap, rotor, plug wires if needed
- check for oil leak at the oil cooler (some cars have a weak spot in the case that leaks there. easy fix. Porsche issued a TSB on it.)
- replace oil cooler seals
- adjust valves
- throttle linkage bushings (a lot of people forget this and it will improve throttle response!) get the Weltmeister ones. Pelican sells them.
- Good time to check the dizzy
- check clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, TO bearing, etc.
- good time to replace engine sound pad
- how do your motor/transmission mounts look?
- check the transmission shift shaft seal for leaks
- adjust clutch cable
- rear main seal
- check shift coupler bushings
- clean the engine tin and paint it
- any leaks at the oil return tubes?
- clean the 14-pin connector near the fuse panel
- clean the 14-pin connector that goes to the ECU (on the 14-pin connectors you can use a razor blade to spread the pins so they fit tightly - look at the pins straight on and it will be obvious what I mean)
- check and clean the wires at the starter
- clean or replace the transmission ground strap

subscribed...SmileWavy

Great list. Just have the dedication to know when to STOP. Stop before a refurbish of all the suspension and brakes and then......

Buy another 911 to drive while your working on the list.

Ha, funny, I just pulled my engine/trans to replace the shift rod seal that was leaking (and helped destroy my shift coupling bushing). So WIWIT I put in a new clutch disk (flywheel and PP was excellent). I replaced the #1 bearing seal (behind the flywheel). I installed new engine/trans mount bushings, removed cleaned and lubed the throw out bearing rod and lever, cleaned, cleaned, cleaned. Replaced the "Trident of Death" "Triple Threat" whatever you call those three seals on the thermostat, breather and pressure sender. I'll add new grease to the CV joints when I get to that point. I re-installed the engine last night and got it secured with the new mounts but stopped there waiting for the grease to show up. Of course that means an oil and filter change also.....whew! not bad for four days....it should be running by tonight.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1474554601.jpg

One thing to keep in mind is that removing a 911 engine is a one to four hour job for most relatively handy people, so replacing "tons" of stuff just because it's out isn't necessarily that crucial- take it out next year or later and do more.

My new thing to do is check the trans main shaft 36mm nut. Prone to work loose, and when it does, good bye 915. Broke my case, carrier, ring gears, and everything else. Nice shifting quiet trans reduced to scrap. Just pull off the cover from the trans and your there. 10 min. job and could save you a ton. Just spent 4200 on a rebuilt one.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1474578697.jpg

Maybe do a search?

Download the PET for your specific car. Review it for every part number from the front seats back and place an order with Pelican. That should cover it. And you'll get a cool Christmas card from them in December.

But in all honesty, Dooodahman's list is pretty comprehensive.

I found the source of the list I reproduced above. it is Tirwin's list. All credit to him.

What He Said
 

^^^^^x2

You could clean the bajeezus out of it. That's mostly free. :-D

Never heard this one before... can this be done and resealed without any need of adjustment / shims?
Just new gaskets?

Great Feedback so far....
 

The only thing I have not seen recommended is to take lots of High Res Pictures.
The first time I took off my CIS, I mixed up two connectors on the backside. What a pain to figure out what I did wrong. Now I mark them (color code) and take pics to make sure they are back on the way they need to be.

After the job is done, the pics and job notes go in a file with the car records.

Best of luck with the Project!!!

Cheers, Louie

This is all great stuff. Thanks for all of your advice. Clutch kit comes in early next week. I hope that I can get some time with my mech while its all apart. Might have to play hookie from work but I want to make sure I get in there to check it all out.
Thanks again - Shane

Would this list be appropriate for an 88, 911 Carrera as well?

Sort of. Different fuel injection system and transmission.

Fuel lines...ask how I know. :mad: