Penatrating oil, 22mm socket, 3/4" breaker bar, 3' cheater pipe, and some muscle worked for me.

The photo in the first post looks like a chrome socket on the impact wrench. I've found that a 19mm chrome deep socket on my Ingersoll-Rand 600 lb/ft impact could NOT loosen tight lug nuts... bought a proper impact socket and voila! I think the thin-wall chrome sockets must have enough flex to them that an impact's short duration twist is absorbed by the flex. The more rigid impact socket walls impact more of the twist onto the bolt.

Took the suspension off my 993 yesterday, and I was so happy to have the air! :D

Well, there is the penetrating oil, heat, breaker bar, primal scream method, OR, behind door #2, you put the key in the ignition and drive to nearest shop, (doesn't need to be Porsche wrench, could be Midas), and offer to pay them to crack them loose for you with a real impact gun and socket. Usually if you ask nice, charge is zip. A 600ft.lb. gun will spin that sucker in reverse. I admire the fervent DIY fever around here, but sometimes common sense gets lost in the mix. :cool:

Ok, that's enough, we'll have none of that "common sense" stuff! :D
-Chris

Big Bad Bolt!
 

If you are using one, remove the quick disconnect from your air line and connect the line directly to the air wrench. Crank the pressure up to max (120 psi should do the trick), and let the tank build up until the compressor shuts off. While using the air wrench on the bolt, have someone else give the control arm a couple of whacks with a hammer. If that doesn't work, go to sears and get the Ingersol-Rand air wrench!

Good Luck!!

Fred Cook
'80 911SC

Yep, go to shop with real tools. This is one of my favorite methods with the garage down the street. They have yet to offically charge me but I usually tip the person who took the time the help me out.

I agree with the earlier comments. Especially the one about using PB Blaster. Use it the night before. Use either a breaker bar or place a floor jack at the end of the ratchet handle. Then get back apply pressure and let it sit. Be careful when doing this as something could slip off or snap. Quite a bit of force at this point. Repeat in small increments making sure the handle does not slip off.

I've found the breaker bar works better when you have the space to use it. I use my air hammer in confined spaces. I've also had instances where the air hammer did not work but the breaker bar did.

Got the bolts out. Thanks for all the suggestions. Good old mechanical advantage did the trick.

Even though I have a pretty good cache of tools, I realized I did not own a breaker bar, so off to Home Depot. Their Husky-brand tools have the same "no questions asked" warranty as Sears, and you can buy 3/4" iron pipe at The Depot. Heck, here in Atlanta (home office of Home Depot) they have one store that is 24/7.

$26 later, and the elegant simple machine we all know and love as a lever is staged and ready. Installed impact socket on breaker bar, slid cheater pipe over tip by a good 8 inches, and some very steady pressure

CRACK! The bolt was finally convinced it needed to turn. The other one came out even easier; perhaps it saw what happend and decided to offer only token resistance.

The impact finished the job, and the rest of the spring install was without drama. Did manage to discover a broken vacuum line and a missing wire clip from the air cleaner box. Also, on my '91, you have to open up the front brake lines to get the struts off, so a bleeding is required, so I have a firmer pedal as well.

Off to the alignment shop tomorrow.

Sometimes you can use a jack handle as a cheater pipe.
-Chris

One thing I got during my "Great Air Tool Buying Frenzy of 2001" was this quite nice Omega air/hydraulic floor jack, which does not have a removable handle.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/omega/21032.jpg

The irony here is one of the reasons I even considered getting a new jack was that my kids "lost" the handle to the old manual one I used to own.

impact heven
 

Amen to that , thats the one that will do the job! Air tools are the smart mechanics tools of choice.

Why is it always the left side shock nut that is so tight?

I had to heat mine - the right side nut came right off though!

I just bought a Devilbess mfg. compressor yesterday... Came with some free tools.. Pshaw... THe impact gun they gave me is only rated at 75 foot pounds... What the heck is that good for, fixing eyeglasses? THe rachet ang blow gun are nice stuff, but 75 ft/lbs?!

Fun, isn't it? the old mechanical advantage thing. I can recall dealing with the big axle nut on my '69 VW Beetle. I think that thing's on there at 350 lb/ft or something ridiculous like that. I've owned the 5' length of pipe since then. It makes you nervous at first to apply that kind of force, and the nut can break loose with a bang. Part of the fun.

Yes Kevin, the same strategy was used on the castle nut. I found that the tool was fitting on the nut poorly, so I customized the tool. I raised the front of the car up and rested it on the tool and breaker, and some wood blocks. the entire front of the car was resting on it. It had no choice.

Please make sure you have strong jack support before you apply extreme force on the bolt. The bolt might be so strong it will take the car with it.

John Walker has good recommendations. Please remember, he is a pro with all the tools. The car is well secured on the hoist. Whatever works for him, might not be working for us home mechanics. You can apply much more force when the car is hoisted at your chest level than you are kneeing down.