Cannot get fluid flowing through front brake lines
 

Replaced M/C/flex lines/Rebuilt calipers on all 4 corners on my 71T, all installed and plumbed. I went and gravity bleed all 4 calipers starting with right rear (farthest) and then on to fronts. Backs bled fine, fronts, nothing. I blew out lines prior to M/C install and they were clear and flowing, but tried to get fluid gravity bleed through and nobody home. I installed a NEW ATE M/C, could there be something clogged in the front lines/port of the M/C.? Can I apply the brake pedal to try and force fluid through the front lines.? Very frustrated and any help appreciated

Proportionig valve is stock to much air front caliper bleed (need helper to press pedal) one shot rear and one front couple time and proportioning valve will move.

Gravity bleed? Get some pressure going. Hang a 12" hose on each bleeder and slowly pump the pedal until you get a clear, bubble free stream. Close the bleeder before removing the hose. Or buy a Motiv bleeder bottle.

I use Speedbleeders:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Automobile Applications
One man job, a few pumps of the brake pedal for each corner, can flush all 4 corners in less than an hour and have rock solid brakes.

The hose works basically the same way. Stays full of fluid until removed. Suck water up a straw and put your tongue on the end. Same idea. One man bleed.

Thanks, I assume you need to check the fluid in the reservoir while pumping the brake pedal with a bleeder valve open and make sure it doesn't run dry.?

Do you have access to a Motive or similar pressure bleeder? When i redid the brakes, i replaced both front and rear calipers and the master cylinder also. Took a while to get a good pedal and to my surprise it was the fronts that took the longest to bleed. I tried a few things, pressure up to 10-12psi with the Motive, pumped the pedal and bled. Did this a few times and probably wasted a liter of fluid. I also tried the gravity method as John Walker stated, i ran each hose into a water bottle to avoid spraying fluid every where just incase...let this sit overnight with each bleeder open. Once i had a halfway decent pedal i put about 5-10 miles on it then bled again.. pedal was much better. I guess it took some time to work all the air into the calipers where it could be bled.

And yes, make sure the reservoir stays full, otherwise you will push more air into the system.

If you have an air compressor and air gun (or similar), then you do not need a Motive power bleeder, an assistant, or a bunch of time allotted for brake bleeding . . . hook air source to master cylinder res vent nipple (I use an appropriately sized hose connected to the end of my air gun and then hold the trigger of the gun down with Velcro wrap), pressurize the res with about 15 psi, and you can solo bleed the entire system, from dry, in about 15-20 mins (could do it much quicker if you had an attached supply of brake fluid and didn't have to keep adding to the res). No need to conclude process with pedal bleeding, either (a total waste of time to do so if pressure bled as I described). This is the best method I have used in 30 years, and I've tried them all.

I have a Motive bleeder, will try hooking it to the reservoir vent nipple and see if I can get some fluid through the front calipers. The cap on the motive doesn't fit the reservoir. Thanks for all the tips