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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: South Florida
Posts: 3
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930 Cranks but will not Start
I broke a key off in the ignition so I replaced the entire key/wheel lock/ ignition assembly. Now the car wont start. It's a '78 with upgraded Elecromotive ignition kit and I don't have a clue where to start... any help would be much appreciated.
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
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i assume it ran before you worked on it
I would start with what you messed with last before it stopped running. did you remove any wires? check to see if any wires came off.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: South Florida
Posts: 3
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Yes, it ran fine. I have checked and rechecked several times all the wires and connection in the area that i was working under the dash...
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North TexASS
Posts: 18,538
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Does the engine crank but not start (you don't specify this you your first post)? If so, are the fuel pumps running as the engine is cranking? If not, perhaps start with checking to see if their fuse is blown (maybe a wire end touched something when you changed the ignition switch and caused a fuse to pop).
PS - pumps do not run with just the key on - air must be passing over the air metering disc in order for the pumps to run, or the safety switch on the back of the fuel head has to be disconnected (in OEM trim). Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 10-07-2016 at 11:08 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,498
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(current version of) the thread title confirms that it's cranking
-- a no-start condition has one of two issues as its root cause -- no fuel or no spark -- may be easier to start by confirming spark by pulling a plug wire and using a grounded spare (or lawnmower, etc.) spark plug to confirm spark while cranking.
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North TexASS
Posts: 18,538
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Quote:
) I'm a slow MF - missed the thread title info! ![]() Good suggestion about spark checking, and the easiest way to confirm if the fuel pumps are operational is to pull the safety switch plug on the back of the air metering housing/fuel head (somewhat difficult to reach), and see if the pumps run with the key in the "on" position. |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,948
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hell why not just lift the air plate ?
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North TexASS
Posts: 18,538
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On a Turbo, that would be "push down" the air plate as it is a suck through design, and require removing the ridiculous, mail-box air filter housing (if still being used by the OP), which is much more time consuming that pulling the safety switch plug (no fuel squirted into the cylinders that way either, and ****).
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