I've read before that the swaybars are pretty rattly.

You could disconnect them and drive over a bumpy road to test it without spending much effort and zero money.

Another one here with rear ER polybronze. Totally silent. Check to see if the nipple rotated and is butted against the outer tb cover. If it is, maybe you thought you could just press them in without using the glue on one side or both. PS great work all around. Hope it's a sway bar bush.

Quick update: took the car back into the shop and 10 minutes later Brent had a loose rear passenger shock nut fingered as the culprit. Tightened it up and away I went. Much better.... but, man is it noisy! Now it no longer sounds like a pocket of change going over bumps, but is definitely 'clunky'. I had a '99 Grand Prix a few years back with worn out macpherson struts. Had them replaced, 6 months later same clunking around. That mechanic said "nature of that style of strut, doesn't last". Point being, if you know that sound it's the same one I'm reminded of now with the 911. I know there is supposed to be slight movement in the spring plate, and the inner trailing arm bushing being poly bronze probably has a tiny bit... but I can't imagine this to be the norm. I suspect I'll have to take it in again for a quick once-over. Ho hum, lol...


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Quick Update: Just got the car back from Hunter Motorsports; I now know what I've been missing all these years. Brent went through everything in the suspension bolt for bolt and resolved every plink, plonk, clunk from the first go-round (i think one of his junior mechs worked on it first time). Now she's solid, tight, and silent... simply amazing. The only thing rattling around now is my sunroof. =]

Plus... he completely rebuilt the 915 tranny (new gears on 1,2,3 i believe), installed the Wevo gate and Wevo classic shifter, new Sachs Power clutch kit with cable and omega, did the valves, new plugs, Rennline pedal set and rebuilt cluster. Jeezus... should have done this a LONG time ago. It's like a completely different car. The shifting is remarkably like my dad's G50 through the gears... except I don't need the quads of a power lifter to depress the pedal. Easiest it's ever been in fact.

One of the young guys at the shop was raving about the RoW 915 with the LSD and external oil cooler... said it was pretty rare to see in N.A. and I should be quite pleased for some time to come. Yessir.

One question I do have for anyone with the Wevo Classic shifter is recommend lube, if at all. By the time I got home the shifter stick started to squeak at the base when moving laterally in neutral (ie. to get over before going up into first, or back the other way). Is there a urethane(?) ball at the end of the stick that sits in a urethane(?) cup that needs regular lubing? It's tough to see what might be making the creaking noise and having had someone else put it together I'm not sure exactly where a blind greasing would be best applied. Would a silicone spray or something of that nature be easiest? Perhaps a squirt on that ball (through the hole facing the passengers legs)? The shifter boot is off so I do have some access. Any thoughts appreciated.

Also, he didnt' install the Wevo PSJ, said I got the wrong one. Apparently I have the one that needs to be welded on to the rod, and if it isn't welded perfect they've been known to break. I'll have to go back and look at my Pelican invoice, was pretty sure all the Wevo parts I got were bolt-on.

Today it finally feels like all the hard work has paid off, I think I'll be wearing this ear-to-ear for a while. =]

Edit: Parting wisdom in the 915 Classic Shifter Installation doc, "The WEVO Shifter should be periodically maintained by cleaning and lubricating with synthetic grease. Grit and dust might accumulate in the mechanism, especially in race cars or club event cars that have “off track” excursions. Be aware that the precision of your WEVO Shifter will slowly deteriorate if cleanliness is overlooked." So yep I'll give that cup (O.E. BALL SOCKET 911.424.139.00) a smear. =]