2 questions regarding clutch cable and helper spring
 

Like an idiot, i didn't replace my clutch helper spring when i had my engine out and John Walker going through the tranny, my helper spring immediately broke when I pried it back into the loaded position. I can tell the spring was original to my '78sc so i am assuming so is my cable and I might as well replace it too.

First, is there really a big enough difference between GEMO, Cofle and Pioneer clutch cables that using anything but GEMO is asking for trouble?

Second - is the pin that keeps the clutch arm on the shaft tapered? Can I bang it out towards the rear? I pounded on it and couldn't get it to budge, now I am going with the air hammer and my special pin bit! But want to make sure the pin isn't tapered first.

okay, third Q - are all helper, omega, horsehoe (what ever name you prefer) springs made from same OE manufacturer? I can't seem to find anything but a no-name brand.

I have missed the last 8 weeks of the PNW driving season and I am jonesing to get back on the road again, finally!

Paul

I purchased the cheaper Polished made cable, no issues.

Omega Spring, no difference.

For the pin, I used bunch of washers, taped it together and pressed it out with a large C-clamps, just make sure you keep everything in order. You may want to consider replacing the needle bearings while the pin is out.

Also feel the omega spring's pivot post, if rough, use 80 grit sand paper and smooth it out, roughness will cause a gritty feel on the throw when your bearing grease dries out.

Hope that helps,

Jim

Yes drive the pin out toward the rear. Don't think it's tapered but more room to get at it from the front.

I had some trouble with cable length...my replacement was somewhat longer or so it seemed. Check before you install to make sure length is similar. I replaced the spring and the arm and any other parts on the trans while I was there. I also cleaned up the pedal cluster which was rusty.

okay, got the pin out, then I was prying off the arm and wasn't paying attention - I think the whole shaft is coming off the fork in the bellhousing?, is that possible or am i imaging?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476922846.jpg

Thanks,
Paul

In your image, that is normal, remember the space is taken up by the clutch arm. Just makes sure you remove all rust, old grease and replace with bearing grease or any hi-heat grease, every thing else will just melt off. Also replace that dust shield, it is toast.

Remember about the CV joints, make sure you torque 10% more than spec and re-check after 200-500 miles or mark it and check to make sure it has not loosened up.

Roger that,
I forgot the about the pin holding the throw out fork in place. the lever came right off, all looks good.

As i was working on this, I just remembered I forgot to grease the throw up bearing were the fork rides....Neuman!

Carefully, spray some "CHAINSAW" spray lube down the inspection port on top of gear box. Reach in and get a feel of where the fork is on the TOB, bend the red plastic straw that comes with the spray.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140402027.jpg
Hole on top.

Use very little as not to chance in getting it on the clutch surface due to over spray/residue.