Seattle Area Valve Help

[MichaelUD]

Before throwing in the towel on a valve adjustment at taking the car to the shop, I will presume upon the kindness of those north of Seattle who may have expertise with valve adjustment to lend a hand.

As suggested I went through the entire process first without adjusting anything. First TDC on #1; felt the play of the exhaust and intake valve as well as being able to discern the spinning of a bushing on the valve end. I thus was confident that the correct valve was ready to adjust. I attempted to insert the feeler gauge. It would not slide between the adjuster screw and the valve end. But there was the slightest of play. Rotate 120 degrees (I think).

#6. Rotor pointing at #6. Slightest of play at number six valve intake and exhaust. But feeler gauge won't slide between anything. On to #2.

#2. Play in the valve adjuster just like #1 and #6. Very consistent tightness. The bushing spins and the play is very slight. On to #4 and things get a bit confusing.

At this point I'm not able to determine if 120 degrees has been turned. There are notches on the fly wheel very close to the TDC mark. II watch for the rotor to point to the spark plug wire of the cylinder that I think is to be adjusted. There is play in #4. Then #3, then #5. All feel about the same. Can't get the feeler gauge in any; all have just the slightest back and forth.

I can put everything back together and take it to the shop for a valve adjustment. But while it's all open and exposed, is there anyone in the Seattle are who would be willing to swing by my place and help me out? There's a home brew in it for you.

Thanks,
Michael

[rwest]

Michael,

The 120 degree method is indeed faster, but you can also just look at where the rocker is sitting on the cam lobe; if it's on the round portion, you're good to go on the adjustment, if it is on the lobe area, then it is pushing on a valve and not able to be adjusted.

I actually just draw a crude picture/diagram of the valves and then just turn the crank a bit and crawl under until I have a valve I can adjust, then I mark it on my diagram, so on and so forth until done, definitely slower and more crawling around, but it works fine.

[franklinstower]

i just got done doing the valves twice while my engine was out. I am getting a pretty good feel for it and could come by possibly this weekend if you haven't already finished it.

send me a pm with your #.

Paul

[Jdub]

Keep in mind that as valves wear they become tighter. The valve seats are constantly being hit on and eventually the wear causes the valve to settle in and the clearance to decrease. I learned long ago on SOHC 4-cylinder Hondas to love the sound of the clicking - it is healthy to a point.

I think you are in good hands with Paul. I've done valves many times but went with John Walker for the follow up valve adjust following the top end rebuild. I wanted to hear exactly what well adjusted valves sound like.