Electrical smoke interior. Blower? 1986 3.2

[sugarwood]

Got the smoke. Not billowing like a fire, but a haze like a lit cigarette in the car.
Seemed like it was at my feet and rising.

I'm a bit rattled as this happened at a track day and I'm far from home, so I didn't read the archives.

Footwell Blower motor fuses are both intact, but both blowers do not start when I pull up the red levers. No heat.
I think I read that if engine compartment blower dies, footwell Blower also stops?
EDIT: Footwell blowers both work properly with direct 12V power applied


Drive for a few minutes with no smoke, and I think no smell....
I disconnected both footwell blowers, turned off the heat levers, and disconnected the engine blower.
I'm currently driving the car home, but am watchful for smoke or smell.

What are the steps to diagnose? Assume I make it home without going up in flames...

[db_cooper]

I had the same issue a few years ago. Turns out one of the footwell blowers melted a brush holder..probably due for replacement anyways. I replaced both footwell blowers and installed inline fuses (which my Porsche did not have originally) and the system worked fine (as I recall I had the work the heater levers a few times once the new footwell blowers were installed to get everything running again)

Once you are home, use you nose and find the offending blower.

[sugarwood]

I don't think it's a foot blower because both of them are off and both have intact fuses

[db_cooper]

Check the footwell blowers anyways...I doubt the melted brush holder would have popped a fuse..maybe..all the footwell wires and connectors had no sign of overheating or damage and looked just fine. The source of the smoke was obvious.

Since you have no smoke with the footwell and rear blower disconnected..must be related I would think.

[sugarwood]

I applied power to each footwell blower, and they both power up and spin correctly
So, it's something else.

Hoping someone can chime in with how to test the engine compartment blower, and got that circuit works (why footwell is getting no power)

[Rawknees'Turbo]

One way to electrically test the engine compartment blower is to check for continuity through it (not sure if you know how to go about doing that) - if no continuity though the windings, then motor has a problem.

You can also bench test it the same way you did the footwell blowers.

[sugarwood]

I am now reading on how to remove the engine blower from the car.
That's the next step, right?

[JRSIII]

Couldn't you just disconnect the connector plug and apply 12V? If it runs, then apply a volt meter to the other side of the connector and see if you have 12V with the ignition switch on and the red levers pulled up? I don't see above where you ever said whether the engine blower is running or not?

[sugarwood]

I've not yet inspected at the engine blower.
Yea, I could try to apply power directly, but the connector seems hard to see. (and connect wires to)
But, regardless, my cable is not long enough to reach the back of the car, unless I remove the battery.

So, I think I should remove it and test it on the bench, near the front of the car battery?

[JRSIII]

Well it's not terribly difficult to remove, so if you'd prefer to do that it won't be too bad. I don't recall the exact position of the connector but do seem to recall it's a bit hidden.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Woody, no need to remove that motor to test it (unless you want to); you can use the engine compartment fuse panel as a 12V power source that is close by (at least one wire on the fuse block is hot even with the ignition key off), not to mention the positive lug on the starter solenoid (more difficult to reach than the fuse panel, buttofcourse).

[sugarwood]

Rawk, I haven't a clue how to use the engine fuse panel as a power source. Maybe you can explain at some point? Right now, I just connect large electric alligator leads to the battery and the other end into the motor connector prongs (using an electrical test kit)

Ok, so removing it was pretty easy. Gave power, and nothing.
The motor appears dead with 12V and it had a faint smell of that electrical smell.

So, I think I will replace this motor.

It is detached from the air duct and I also removed the "squirrel cage" fan.
This is what I have left, and I can't take it apart any further since it's got tiny retaining rings.

Is this the correct motor to buy?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91162415103PH.htm?pn=911-624-151-03-PH&SVSVSI=810

Does the replacement motor basically replace this entire thing? (round plate, metal casing, and internal motor with stud, but not the mounting bracket)

[JRSIII]

I bought 911 624 151 03 PH from Pelican. Worked like a charm. You are correct that you need to re-use the bracket. Don't worry about the note about the plug, it will come with what you need.

Note that if you really want to, you can further disassemble the motor. Take off the bracket, remove the two screws on the baseplate that hold the little lugs in, use a magnet to pull out the lugs, and you can (with some force) pull the motor cover off. I don't believe any of the internals are serviceable but if you are curious...

[sugarwood]

When yours died, did it go with a puff of smoke?
Mine gave to hint of dying. Just boom, gone.

Yes, I am curious about the internals.
I removed the 2 screws (the lugs fell out)

I removed the circlip.
But, then was not able to take off the very tiny ring on the shaft groove that holds a retaining washer. (It's like a 2nd circlip, but totally round with a small gap)
Yellow is off, but green is blocked by red.

Green = Washer
Yellow = Circlip
Red = tiny ring.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Rawk, I haven't a clue how to use the engine fuse panel as a power source. Maybe you can explain at some point? Right now, I just connect large electric alligator leads to the battery and the other end into the motor connector prongs (using an electrical test kit)

Sportin'aWoody, on the engine compartment fuse/relay panel, the fuse section is hot at all times (even with the ignition off/key out), so you can use it as a 12v power source by attaching a wire to any of the fuse holders (with alligator clip, etc.).

Are you familiar with how to use a multi-meter? If so, you can use one on any electrical connection throughout the car to find hot/live power sources.

[sugarwood]

In the photo, which of the above fasteners need to be moved to the new motor?

[JRSIII]

You shouldn't need to remove the retainer you are talking about. At this point just magnets are holding the cover one. Actually, you need that retainer to keep the rotor/windings in place when you grab the cover and give it a firm yank to pull it off.

Note mine never gave out. The shaft bearing had ovalized so it made a heck of a racket when turned on. I tried to repair (there are threads on this forum from guys who were successful) but it didn't work, so I replaced the motor.

[JRSIII]

None of the parts shown with arrow are re-used if you buy the motor I listed earlier.

[sugarwood]

Lifting the round plate lifts the green washer which then hits into the red washer thing.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by JRSIII

None of the parts shown with arrow are re-used if you buy the motor I listed earlier.

You just attach the fan cage with the 13mm nut?
Did that give you any trouble?

When I was removing the fan cage, the nut would spin with the shaft.
I had to Dremel a groove and hold the shaft with a screwdriver.
Not sure if this will happen during reinstallation??