Oh one more thing. That diagram is helpful in that it shows an un-labled branch of wire that goes off to the side. Pretty sure that un-labled branch is a ground wire group.

Last weekend I was futzing around with this location on my '86 and that made me remember I have a ground wire secured to one of the bumper shock clamp bolts

OK.. so does this mean I have to also remove the bumper pad and disconnect the license plate light as well?

Sorry for the late reply. I don't think you have to remove the bumper. Just take out the license plate light and disconnect the wires. Securely tape a piece of long flexible wire to the license plate wires. When you pull the wires out gently, thru the bumper pad and bumper, that taped piece of extra wire will serve as a way of allowing you to pull the wires back into the bumper pad when you put it all back together.

Thanks.... I ended up having to remove the bumper.. as it was nearly impossible to get my hand and a tool up into the small opening where the broken speed nut was spinning when trying to drill out the screw.

With the bumper removed, I was able to get a small metal blade pushed up against the spinning nut.
I then proceeded to spin the screw with my drill and just pushed the metal blade onto the spinning nut until it cut off.
I'm guess with the speed of the nut spinning, and the teeth of the metal blade, it weakened it enough to finally break off.

More work than I wanted... but at least its done. Good thing I did take the bumper off though, as there is some bad oxidation at the holes of the aluminum bumper that has caused some minor pit marks around each hole opening.

I just recently went through all of the same on my 86. I didn't remove the bumper, though, as I was able to get to the spinning captive nuts after removing the valence and heat shield, but just barely. I was surprised at how heavy the turn signal housings are, and at how dirty they got. So rather then having them blasted and repainted, since I'm trying to lighten the car anyway, I replaced them with aftermarket plastic housings from Sierra Madre. They were pricey, though.

How is the fit on the plastic housings? They look to be a significant weight saving, but I haven't been able to find any reviews.

I checked these out... cheap compared to Porsche originals....

I ended up ordering the Porsche brand from Pelican. I'll just keep my originals and sell them cheap to see if someone wants to restore them (sand and paint is all they really need)

There's no easy quick disconnect - you will need to disconnect two things to remove the taillight (I know, I just went thru this when the texting girl destroyed everything back there including the taillight).

The rubber plug disconnects from the inside of the engine bay, right at the sheet metal - it's really tight, but it can be pulled off. Then you will see how the plug comes out of the sheet metal.

Then as KTL shows, you need to get the thin white-ish wire out of the rubber bumper license plate light - no quick disconnect here.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 423k miles

The fit was okay, but hard to gauge too critically since I think my car had been hit in the rear at some point in it's history.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480462644.jpg

Another tip on drilling out screws and bolts. Get a set of left handed drill bits. When drilling with right hand bits, the bit turns in the tightening direction. Left hand bits may break the screw/bolt loose.

Thank you. I like the center reflector replacement!

Thanks. Purchased from fellow Pelican al lkosmal.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/602269-do-you-like-my-new-grille.html