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I have a 69 911, with a 77 2.7 engine. I went out to start it the other day and got a whirrr-clikchung sound from the starter, then nothing but clicks from the starter. I had not replaced the starter from my 69 2.0 engine when I did the swap. So I figured I would upgrade to the 77 starter. No problem it took all of 20 minutes. I also changed the ground strap, from the tranny to th chassis. The problem still persists, only now the starter engages infrequently turns slowly with the whirrr-clikchung sound occuring sparradicly. The starter and solinoid get very hot when it does turn. I need to add that this is a rebuilt unit. I have jumped terminal 30 and 50 and got a nice spark and the starter turned. Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated .
TIA. ------------------ 69 911t 86 951 [This message has been edited by ffilips (edited 10-18-2001).] |
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A new development in my Starter wars saga. The starter has started to give off alittle smoke and alot of stink. Did I some how fry it?
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From your first post,iIt sounds like either the solenoid is not making good contact or, your ignition switch is not getting enough juice to the solenoid. I say this because you specify when you contact the solenoid via the positive battery cable it rotates well, correct?
Good Luck! ------------------ Nick Hromyak '85 Carrera 7 & 9 Fuchs Havin' Fun in Sacramento |
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It spins like a champ.
------------------ 69 911t 86 951 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,309
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Could the ring gear be hashed?
------------------ '83 SC |
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Have you cleaned the battery terminals, lately? Or checked the battery ground strap's connection to the body? Your problem is low Voltage delivered to the starter motor, and there are only 'so many' places where the problem can be!
Yes, it sounds like your rebuilt starter has 'BOUGHT THE FARM!' Was it an SR-68X? ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
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Warren,
The battery and ground strap were the first things I checked. I ran out of daylight before I could check the rest of the grounds. If they check out ok would I be correct in assuming that it could be either in the ignition switch or its wiring to the starter? I looked at the box and the billing and found no mention of whether it was sr-68 or sr-17, and of couse the parts store personage had no clue what model it was only their computer said it was the starter for a 77 911. All I can say for sure is that the housing was larger in diameter than the one I took out. [This message has been edited by ffilips (edited 10-18-2001).] |
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I don't really believe in making assumptions about electrical problems. I believe it is time to get a good digital multimeter and some long test leads ... and start making some Voltage drop measurements while attempting to start. I recommend a series of measurements while the starter is cranked for about 10 seconds, a stable measurement is observed and recorded. Then allow the starter to cool for at least five minutes, then move to the next location to be measured. The following measurements require a set of test leads at least 10 feet long, and preferably 12 feet for both red and black test leads:
Using the battery negative terminal connected to the black, negative test lead, measure the following locations during cranking: 1. battery positive terminal 2. hot lead at starter -- terminal #30 3. starter body (ground) -- making sure that connection to test lead is on bare metal at starter near lower 10 mm stud 4. transaxle crossmember at ground strap -- measure at bare steel on crossmember 5. transaxle case near starter lower 10 mm stud 6. solenoid lead connector on Yellow wire -- terminal #50 7. terminal #50 on solenoid -- the brass/copper stud that 1/4" male Faston lug is bolted to with 8 mm nut and washer 8. Yellow wire -- terminal #50 on ignition switch When you have all of the above readings, I believe the picture and the problem will be more clear. Good luck! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
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