Rear wheel bearing/hub removal

[ppendle]

Finally got the axle shaft removed, but can't drive the hub out, despite many attempts hammering on an iron pipe. All Bentley steps followed to this point...any tricks to this? Also, what kind of tool do I need for the bearing removal/where can I get it?
as always, thanks
pendleton

[Joe Bob]

The shaft of the hub is inside the bearing...."I" use a large socket on an extension that only hits on the hub.

Drive the hub out then drive the bearing out with a slightly larger socket from the other side.

[ppendle]

thanks mikez, i'll give that a shot.

[GIBSON]

Sir tools and several other places sells a great set of bearing removing tools. It includes sizes to fit most wheel bearings and it makes removing them a civilized job.
I used it last time I did my rears and it's easy. It's a serious tool and will pull out any bearing. Maybe too late for this job but you will be glad you had it for future
projects.

Bruce Herrmann
73911S

[john walker's workshop]

the bearing tools won't pull the flange out. only the bearing. i don't know of anyone that makes that tool. it would be nice to have one. i use two three foot long snapon prybars,(looks like a long, square shaft screwdriver with a bent end), one on each side of the flange, with the tips on the bearing retainer, and yank it out. it takes a bit of effort, but usually gets them. if the car is on stands, be careful to not pull it sideways. even the ones that won't budge by pounding on the backside generally respond to this method.

[GIBSON]

Yea, that's right, the puller only gets the bearing. The flange comes out best with John's method, I've never had one put up too much of a fight. I just like the bearing puller tool as it feels like it's doing the job right and no risk of buggering-up the bearing surface in the hub.

Bruce

[ppendle]

still no budging with repeated hammering on a socket on the hub shaft. I'll give the pry bars a shot...

[cary]

Make sure your hitting the right thing.
Your trying to pound on the INNER circle.
Like Mike said.
The outer circle is the bearing. Your not going to budge it with that. I think 27mm socket covers the hub. Just did mine twice. Get it clean so you can see what is what.
BTDT .........
Good Luck

------------------
Cary Kutter
77 Euro Carrera w/3.2
PCA Region - Big Sky

[bjarte]

I put my car into two different garage for changeing the wheel bearings. Both the times the bearings starts makeing noise after 300-600 km. I went to a Porche garage, and he told me that he can bet that the both times , its been put together wrong. ?????
I need to change the bearings he told me.
??
Anybody with a hint for me? (start being expencinve for me)

[ppendle]

OK...hub removed via the prybar method (2x 3 foot bars from sears @ 8$ each). None of the rental stores around here rent the bearing removal tool, and the recomended Sir Tools unit costs about 500 bones. Anyone use a slide hammer to get the bearing out?
continued thanks,
p

[Jens Wendorff]

Bjarte,

Thats sounding strange. I can think of three possibilities:
1) The shop screwed you with a shorcut, not removing the worn outer race of the bearing. This is the hard thing to get out.
2) The adjustment of the new bearings was too tight both times. Usually, they last only ac ouple of 100 km then.
3) Its not the bearing causing your trouble, its something else.

Just my 0.02

jens

[john walker's workshop]

the tool is basically a cup that the bearing is pulled into by way of a nut and a thick washer on a lenght of 3/4" to 1" allthread. you could make it yourself. it installs the bearing too. heating the housing with a torch helps if it's really tight. when reinstalling the flange, it is imperative that the split inner race is supported so it does not get pushed out as the flange comes thru. that may be why the other bearings didn't last.

[cary]

Wayne sells the tool right here.



I have a CHEAPER version, it doesn't have the hub remover. If I had it to do over again I'd have the better version. They work real slick. But like John said, you could fabricate something yourself looking at the picture.

My 2c.






------------------
Cary Kutter
77 Euro Carrera w/3.2
PCA Region - Big Sky

[john walker's workshop]

that large bracket in the picture does not work on 911s for removing the flange. it's for vw and audi, and possibly other makes. so don't worry about making that piece. the cup, allthread and the thick round washer to place behind the bearing to pull it out, and a larger diameter thick washer that you put in behind the bearing hole in the arm to pull the bearing in are the main items you need.

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Any bearing is easy to kill if you hammer then in.

Grüsse

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

i use two three foot long snapon prybars,(looks like a long, square shaft screwdriver with a bent end), one on each side of the flange, with the tips on the bearing retainer, and yank it out. it takes a bit of effort, but usually gets them.

I have been pounding on the backside of the rear hub trying to get it out of the bearing with no luck. I decided to take a break and do a search here and this old thread came up. I want to make sure I'm "prying" the right thing!

JW said above to rest the tips of the prybars on the bearing retainer - is that the part of the trailing arm that has the 4 bolts holding the e-brake assembly? Can I basically pry against 2 of the 4 bolt heads or in that vicinity?

Also, the trailing arms are currently NOT on the car. Is this going to be an impossible task to get enough leverage w/the prybars while the trailing arm is on the ground or set up in a vice?

Thanks,
Tom

[2.70Racer]

No need to do all that hammering and prying to remove the wheel hub.
I remove 4 of the 5 wheel studs.
Then with four 1/2" x 6 to 8 inch long full thread bolts from Home Depot, through the holes, nuts on the inside, I push off the hub. No sweat, no pain.
To remove the wheel studs, I got a couple open steel lug nuts, thread them on near flush.
This protects the lug threads and your nice Porsch lug nuts.
A couple taps with my 4# hammer and off they come.
I tap the studs back in place before I reinstall.
The inside race of the bearing comes off with the hub.
I took mine to a local shop to remove.
You can remove at home but it's a pain.
Do not pound on the new bearings.
Get new bolts and schnorr washers for the CV Joints.

[john walker's workshop]

that works, but in the 20 minutes spent getting it set up, the prybars do it in 20 seconds.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by 2.70Racer

Then with four 1/2" x 6 to 8 inch long full thread bolts from Home Depot, through the holes, nuts on the inside, I push off the hub. No sweat, no pain.

I can not get these things to budge. I like your concept Doug, and knocked out a few wheel studs to try to set it up. I can't figure out what the bolts push against on the trailing arm side however. The bearing flange itself is too inboard of the wheel stud holes and the e-brake components seem too weak. I tried to straddle a piece of metal something between the bearing flange and 2 bolts, but the thing kept walking on me when I tried to tighten the bolts and it seemed too complicated!

I even re-installed on of the trailing arms back on the car to get more leverage w/the prybar method, but still no joy. I'm taking a break on it before I go crazy.

Would heat work? I'm certainly open to any more hits!

Thanks,
Tom

[rusnak]

I'm a little bit lost, so forgive me.

Are you trying to remove the rear hub and wheel bearing? That large pic looks exactly like the tool that I bought to do the job. The inner bearing race comes out with the hub. You have to use different sized pressing discs to get them out. Once the hub is out, the race comes off with a split bearing puller and hydraulic press. I never could get prybars to work because I could not get enough travel with them on the work piece.

I'm sorry if this is off-point because I'm not fully understanding the question. Also, the bearing puller is the perfect tool to install the bearings. The bearing was installed in about 60 seconds or less with that tool. Many guys have made their own bearing pullers with threaded rods and different flanges and washers.