3.2 PSA Reference Speed Sensor Connector DME side
 

PSA: Check the connectors under the rubber boots on the Ref & Speed Sensor, DME side!

Okay Fellas ( Specifically 3.2s ),

After 4 no start attempts, I diagnosed both my Reference and Speed Sensors went out at the same time, Okay... No biggy but...

I was sitting on the couch and I got brain fart to clean the DME side connectors. Ready to use my Deoxit on the connectors due to some corrosion I observed on the Sensor side:

Low and Behold, I see one of the ref connector female spade was pushed in, again no biggy, let me push the rubber boot back and push the connector back up ( why did it push back in the first place I said to myself, hmmmm? )

Pulled rubber back then to my shock, two wires were disconnected from the female spades and the one that was connected was the ground that was pushed back but will not lock into place (time to replace connector, doh). FUCHS!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1480843604.jpg

Googled the part number on the side of the connector 022 906 233 B. Our host has it! :D

http://cdn2.pelicanparts.com/catalog...06233B-M14.jpg

Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

So... if you OHMed out the sensors and they are to spec, check the DME side just in case. With this type of failure she will never start.

To prevent this, always remove the locking ring and pull from the connector not the wiring.

J

Zoinks ! Good catch.

When I was having my no start issues, I wound up testing the sensors at the harness connector to the DME using a You Tube how to video, and pulling a connector diagram off of a google search to locate the right terminals. That wasn't a problem. However, it did turn out that I had an intermittent break in my fuel pump power wire, so ultimately, continuity checks can be very important. It seems like this is the third bad connection I have heard about recently, so continuity should be considered a diagnostic must.

I usually pry off the connector with a little screwdriver, or grasp the connector and wiggle it. I haven't pulled off the wire band in years. BUT- I have also seen those little wires corrode INSIDE of the insulation, so that the wire looks fine but has no integrity to the metal of the wire. This is very rare, but not as rare as you might think up in damp climates and the Salt Belt. These are the things that stump this chump. I have had a few of these problems crop up with Bosch EFI over the years, but my garage is dry, and I have time on my side.

One of the reasons I settled on a 3.2 is because I have had L jetronic on other cars, and I was somewhat familiar with the system.

Thanks for the heads up!

My contribution to the Cause :D or just dumb luck.

But seriously you DIYer's that drop your own engine, take care on how you remove all BOSCH connectors.

I just don't get how she managed to stay on or start for that matter but it make sense now, I had intermittent misfires in the past I thought, age maybe, or vacuum leak ( none BTW ), really a host of possible issues. Well, I hope the new sensors and new connector fix will finally stop the intermittent misfires.

Could she drive even better than she is now with properly working sensors, wow, kinda excited :D

Thanks for the tip!


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So, were your ref sensors actually bad, or was it the bad connection?

Old ones are toast, failed OHM test. Waiting for delivery.

Doh, Pelican only sells the housing and not the female spades that are needed. Lucky I had a 2 sets of Injector plug rebuild kits with he same spades. Hewh!

Plug fixed and verified continuity to the DME.

So I was mistaken about the Sensors, they are just fine, So Sowwy BOSCH, my bad.

I miss read the Bentley, it was not 100,000 OHMs but >100,000 OHMs ( greater than 100,000 ohms ) So my DVM resolutuion was not good enough so it read "OL", which I thought meant BAD. Back to School. Thank goodness, I was dreading the swap :D

Starts right up :D

But I still have misfires, I went thru the whole ignition diagnostics, found Cap had too much resistance, almost 1K Ohms, NO GOOD, needs to be almost ZERO on all seven terminals :-( , swapped with a spare, it seems to be fine, will verify tomorrow's test drive.

Cap and Rotor on Order.

Returning BMW sensors or just may keep them just in case.