![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Northern Ca
Posts: 530
|
3.0 ltr acting strange.....
Rebuilt 930/02 Euro with CIS at about 1100 miles ago. All has been well - finally had my first dyno (ever) about a month ago and numbers were at or near spec at 180 hp at the wheels..... sounded good, no oil burning or smoke. AFR was running fat or rich throughout (haven't tried to adjust yet).
Shortly after that, went out for short trip and it just up and quit twice - able to restart and get home. Then, sat for about 3 weeks. Today, I started it in the garage to run for a period to charge battery - at 2000 rpm for approx. 25 minutes. The hand throttle had a long delay between very minor tweeks to adjust rpm - I could wait 2-3 minutes before it would react, then at times it would just climb about 500 rpm on its own... that's weird in itself. Then, I ended up blipping the throttle at the engine and blah.... it burbled, fluttered and coughed then died with a large plume of smoke coming out of the intake. I removed the air filter and for the first time since the rebuild, noticed some oil laying around the flat part of the plastic intake. It's been remarkably clean since rebuild. Anybody have ideas what might cause belching up oil when applying throttle? I have to also figure out why it quit in flight - electrical or fuel. It's going back to my mechanic when it stops raining - but, I'd like to hear from anybody that's had a similar issue with the coughing up oil back into the intake - enough to make it stall out. thanks |
||
![]() |
|
Hilbilly Deluxe
|
Oil in the intake generally means that it is overfilled. The tank vents to the intake, and if the level is too high, that is where the extra ends up.
Do you fill to the top line on the dipstick? |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
|
check when hot.
I never run above mid way. if it quits then restarts there really is no testing you can do. you have to wait until it will not start. then first check for spark then check to see if the FP runs. you may have to remove the connector form the rear of the AFM to run the pump, if it has one. if you have spares I would swap the CD and/or the coil. but then if it restarts after it quits, you don't know for sure you fixed it,. wait until it will not start, carry spares with you. I keep a CD and coil in the car all the time.
__________________
86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Northern Ca
Posts: 530
|
Yes, check when warmed up and oil level only mid-point on the stick. It's been just fine, but this "out of nowhere" glitch has me puzzled. The only thing I can think of is that we upgraded to a Carerra scavenge pump during rebuild, but no issues until now.
Thanks also for the tips about FP and spark - both on the list to zero in on. I'm sooooooo close to converting to a Bitz type EFI and a crankfire ignition and start eliminating the old stuff. But, there are also good arguments that if the parts are repairable or still available, keep it as intended/built (3.0 excepted) and just enjoy - that's been my thinking for many years. I appreciate you guys taking the time to comment. thanks, Last edited by targa44; 12-13-2016 at 08:02 AM.. Reason: add'l |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
|
i like CIS because it is reliable. no electronic parts to fail
__________________
86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
||
![]() |
|