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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
Posts: 2,889
Originally Posted by biagiosarich View Post
So it's clear that Blisten Re-Valving to match the bars is ideal..However any thoughts on swapping a 21 instead of the 22 while keeping the 29 on the rear? Still HD/Sport set up.
Why not give Chuck Moreland at Elephant a call and pick his brain about all your specs.
He's usually available and more than happy to offer his advice. After all, you spent a lot of money buying his components! My good Pelican friend TIRWIN consulted with him numerous times on his Elephant suspension rebuild and had Chuck rebuild his shocks with digressive valving, he could not be more pleased!

'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket"
Long gone but still miss them all:
'77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!)
'71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue
'68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa
Old 12-22-2016, 10:22 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
Tremelune's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2,599
I suspect it'll be cheaper, easier, and more effective to revalve the shocks than swap the torsion bars. The latter involves getting the ride height correct, then getting the car aligned and corner balanced again. After that, you'll still have 40-year-old shock technology...I think getting the shocks revalved is $100/ea (plus shipping).

It's worth noting that the harshness may not be due to the torsion bars or shocks. For me it was mostly the sway bars and monoball shock tower mounts:

Incurable harsh ride

Old 12-22-2016, 04:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)

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stiff , suspension , torsion bars

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