Piecing together oil lines and parts for 1975 2.7S without cooler

[lightbulb8817]

The purpose of this post is to document and summarize the parts I had to acquire to install a front mounted oil cooler on my 1975 911S 2.7. Hoping this information will make it easier for other people in the future who are looking to do the same thing. There is a lot of information scattered out there.

My car currently does not have an oil cooler. My goal is to get a front mounted oil cooler that will not only keep my current 2.7L cool, but will also be sufficient for a hot 3.2 or 3.6L motor down the road.


Things left to do:
-Find front mount oil cooler that will fit my new bumper without cutting the tub (TRE IROC bumper on order)
-Mounting brackets to hold front mount oil cooler to tub, without cutting tub
-Mounting brackets to hold oil lines to body (trying not to use self tapping screws)
-Oil lines to run from hard lines to the front mount oil cooler (hoping to use AN-16 or 30 mm fittings to not restrict flow)
-Fix a crushed area of my supply oil tube

Questions:

-Any suggestions on which front mount oil cooler to use? Again, it needs to fit without cutting the tub. Hoping it fills most of the opening of my front TRE IROC bumper.

-Is there anyone in Southern California that can help me fixed my one crushed oil tube? I don't have a compressor or fittings to pressurize the tube to pop out the crushed area.


Any feedback will be appreciated. Hoping this info will help other people out. If there are any mistakes (i.e., part numbres, etc.), please let me know so I can correct it.

[matthewb0051]

I'm very happy with my Mocal oil cooler

Pretty sure they sell a kit that will connect to your lines w/o issue

[lvporschepilot]

Haven't some people used steel braided soft lines under the car from the thermostat to the cooler? May not need to fix that big hard line. Otherwise, looks like you have everything sans the cooler and it's various little connections. Mocal cooler should be a-ok

[matthewb0051]

Originally Posted by lvporschepilot

Haven't some people used steel braided soft lines under the car from the thermostat to the cooler?

That is what I have. Works great but a bear to install and cut the longer pieces.

[LeftCoastErik]

Try these guys for the front cooler. They had the lines and a whole kit to go to my existing SC lines (eliminating the trombone) works killer (never saw more than 225 degrees at Chuckwalla in May) and it runs around 180-185 normally on a hot day. I have mine mounted behind my IROC bumper also. Not a ton of airspace behind it, so I was kinda worried about how well it would cool, but it works great.

British American Transfer

[lightbulb8817]

Originally Posted by lvporschepilot

Haven't some people used steel braided soft lines under the car from the thermostat to the cooler? May not need to fix that big hard line. Otherwise, looks like you have everything sans the cooler and it's various little connections. Mocal cooler should be a-ok

Yes, but I'm hoping I can fix this hard line and use it for consistency. Not sure how the soft rubber lines age either.

[lightbulb8817]

Originally Posted by LeftCoastErik

Try these guys for the front cooler. They had the lines and a whole kit to go to my existing SC lines (eliminating the trombone) works killer (never saw more than 225 degrees at Chuckwalla in May) and it runs around 180-185 normally on a hot day. I have mine mounted behind my IROC bumper also. Not a ton of airspace behind it, so I was kinda worried about how well it would cool, but it works great.

British American Transfer

Just skimmed through the thread about your brown car. It looks great!

[Trackrash]

That crushed line will be critical to get right. It looks like there might be a slight twist there. I'm sure someone can repair it. I had to solder in a piece of pipe in mine to fix it. Not saying that's what you need, but you want to get it right.

When I added my front cooler I used a trombone first. Then added the front cooler later.

Adding a front cooler to the stock lines is a job in itself. You need custom hose and fittings to mate the factory lines to what ever the front cooler has. Then everything, the cooler, fittings, and hose has to fit behind the bumper. Took me for ever to get everything right.

BAT is worth checking out for fittings and coolers.

[lightbulb8817]

I've called around various local shops in socal, haven't found one yet that can a crushed pipe. they all want to jump to replacing it for me...

if anyone knows anyone in socal that does this repair, please let me know.

[Trackrash]

Some rubber hose and some fittings, a propane torch, a bike pump, and a friend to pump it.

[matthewb0051]

Originally Posted by lightbulb8817

I've called around various local shops in socal, haven't found one yet that can a crushed pipe. they all want to jump to replacing it for me...

if anyone knows anyone in socal that does this repair, please let me know.

Elephant Racing sells the hard lines if you can't get it repaired.

Elephant Racing | External Oil Cooler Lines | Porsche 911

[Targalid]

Crushed oil line? This worked for me.
Fixed my Crushed Oil line for $5 and a beer.

[72911]

Can someone tell me what the tube dimensions are for these original tubes? O.D. and wall thickness?

[Trackrash]

On the left is a 3/4" copper water pipe for comparison.

[72911]

Gordon,

Thanks that looks like 22+mm diameter and 2mm wall thickness. I had to blow up your pictures to see which graduations actually lined up. Appreciate your time.

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by 72911

Gordon,

Thanks that looks like 22+mm diameter and 2mm wall thickness. I had to blow up your pictures to see which graduations actually lined up. Appreciate your time.

The wall thickness is about 1 mm. It is identical, according to my measurements, to 3/4" copper water pipe. I used 3/4" copper water pipe to repair the pipes on my car.

[72911]

Alright. It looks like the 2mm line lines up, but it has been a long time since I used a non digital Vernier. Thanks again.

[lightbulb8817]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

The wall thickness is about 1 mm. It is identical, according to my measurements, to 3/4" copper water pipe. I used 3/4" copper water pipe to repair the pipes on my car.

Do you have pictures you can share of how it looks when you cut it out and repaired it with water copper pipe?

Thanks

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by lightbulb8817

Do you have pictures you can share of how it looks when you cut it out and repaired it with water copper pipe?

Thanks

I used soldered couplings. They are under the mounts, so they are not visible.

[lightbulb8817]

Yes, no way you can see that.

Is this what I need? If so, I would need to two of these and the necessary length of standard 3/4-inch diameter copper tubing?

http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/copper-fittings/pre-soldered-copper-fittings/3-4-coupling/p-1444425441709-c-9517.htm?tid=-9102509098505052108

Thanks