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Raising shifter base question
Quick question (sorry if a stupid one) for those that have gone through this. Before I start tearing apart my Wevo shifter, how much can I raise the base without having to cut the tunnel like it's required with those that go the raised tunnel route.
Can I get away with an inch or two? Can I raise it say 1" inch on the front and nothing in the back so it's tilted towards the back resulting in the shifter knob being closer to me? |
You can certainly get by with 1/4" ( like some short shifter kits use), but I think you might run into problems with the shifter rod interfering with the center tunnel sheet metal if you raise it an inch. You could try to simply use some washers and longer bolts under the shifter console to see how much you can raise it.
You might find it easier to simply add an extension to the shift lever if you want to simply raise the position of the shifter. Been done plenty of times in the past. |
Thanks for the reply. I hear you on the shift lever, but i have this one and not sure how that would work with this lever.
https://www.wevo.com/Products/ShifterProducts/WevoShifterProducts_Shifter-915Silver.htm |
I built a 1/2" spacer under my 901 shifter. Probably can do the same with a 915.
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Sherwood |
I bought an extension, but I have a classic shift rod for my WEVO.
You could get yourself a ton of washers, remove your shifter base, and add washers until you reach your limit. Then you can have a solid spacer made or buy individual spacers to replace the washers. Documenting it here would help people thinking of doing it in the future. |
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Sherwood |
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Truthfully, the best option would be to sell your current shifter and get a classic Wevo shifter and add an extension to the shifter shaft itself. |
Well i took the shift knob apart and tried to find an extender for it. Problem is the Wevo uses M6 x 1.0 threads which is impossible to find. All of the extenders i was able to find online were either M10 or M12. No luck there.
Back to the drawing board. I had to make my own extender. Went online and got an aluminum rod of same diameter as the wevo top part where the knob attaches. 5/8" was a perfect fit. I started by grinding one end with a dremel to get to the M6 bolt thickness. Grinding aluminum is not the easiest considering you can't just use a grinding stone. I had to get special high speed cutter for the dremel which worked ok. A bit slow but i was ok with that. I was covered in aluminum shavings after all said and done. Once I got the the right thickness i started cutting new threads. That went pretty smooth. Then I cut the rod to the length i wanted 3.5" and made a hole on the other end. Then I stated cutting threads again. This was a ***** as i couldn't get it started. Tried for like an hr and finally gave up, took the family out to dinner, came back and gave it a try. Started on the first try. Go figure. Shaved the outer edge a bit so the knob would go in and i was in business. Installed it and immediately noticed a huge improvement. Going into third and fifth was a breeze. I had to reach for 5th before whereas now it was effortless. It's not the prettiest but it's going into a track car and it does the job. That's all that matters. Enjoy the pics.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484540780.jpg |
Looks great. Good job!
You could offer these for sale and people would probably buy them. |
Hmmm great effort I am concerned that the amount of torque at that joint may snap the threads off at the base of your extension. Be careful.
I wonder if you could get a super long stud or bolt and use a tube. to achieve this. Not sure if they would make a bolt that thin and that long. |
Thank you! Honestly not interested in that. Too much effort and very little spare time. I spend enough time in the garage already. If i spent any more my wife would divorce me.
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I thought about it and was concerned as well but seems sturdy enough. I thought of maybe putting a thin sheet metal at the joint and attaching it with tube fasteners. I might do that afterall but for now it will do.
I also thought about the idea of an M6 long stud inside of a small diameter tube. Thought this way would be cleaner and went with it. Quote:
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I was just looking at the studs and a thought occured, if you drill and tap your extension on both ends then you can use a high grade stud and I think it would be way stronger - also could use a mild steel so it would bend in a failure instead of snap off.
I dont know - probably not a big deal if it were to snap off you could just drive with the remainder of the shifter. people lose the shift knob all the time during a race. |
That's a great idea. I do have left over aluminum rods I can use for that. I might just try one. You are right though, it's not the end of the world if it breaks mid shift. Hopefully not on a downshift
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I made an extension out of an old coping saw handle that happened to be the same diameter and thread size. Die-cut threads and mounted old walnut knob on the other end.
I found shifter much more ergonomic with this little extension and I wasn't reaching as much - it was right at hand, very comfortable. Sorry for crappy pix...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484605013.jpg |
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