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Tori 01-01-2017 02:39 PM

It's my turn. Engine removal / Top end rebuild
Okay, here goes. Get out engine ! ....waves majic wand....

So i realize i have the front of the car higher than it needs to be,.... lesson 1.

Also realized the oil shoots outward of the case farther than anticipated. :rolleyes: lesson 2.

Now for the first question. Following the steps in my 101 book, it covers removing clutch cable bits, but not what to do with my G50 bits.
Can anyone advise on this step for my car?

DRACO A5OG 01-01-2017 03:27 PM

Ouch :-(

I am sure the G50 guys will chime in shortly, in the mean time, I would get everything else ready, i.e. remove the bumper with side lower valances, disconnect the CV joints and use jack stand to keep them up, do not let the axles just hang or use wires to keep them up. Remove Air Box & AFM

Leave the 4 mounting bolts and fuel lines for the last thing prior to drop, use rubber finger tips to cover the disconnected fuel connectors. In fact, use gloves/rubber bands to cover the CV joints, oil lines. Too bad I can't be there to lend a hand.

Happy New Year Brother!

Tori 01-01-2017 04:46 PM

Thanks Jim. That's exactly what i've been doing. My CV's aren't exposed at the end. But i'll use the rubber glove trick for everything else that wants to keep leaking. Good tip.

I hadn't planned to pull the bumper and valance, i've seen motor drops without doing that. Or at least i think i have. Exhaust is off, and i had to undo your zip-tie creation on my throttle cable bracket. :( Not to worry, i took pics so i can recreate. LOL

p.s. You know you want to move up here. ;)

Tori 01-01-2017 04:53 PM

BTW, what size allen fits the exhaust heat exchangers ?

DRACO A5OG 01-01-2017 10:49 PM

LOL, that's right, I forgot, old age :-)

allen should be 10MM, nuts are 13MM, try to soak with penetrating lube, tap with a hammer. Break a Leg Brother.

BTW, is there are reason you want to remove the HE's or is this when it is on the stand? If latter than that is okay.

mo-mon 01-01-2017 10:53 PM

G50 engine drop step by step.

87 Carrera engine drop (1 of 36)

michael lang 01-01-2017 11:53 PM

Tori, when I took my drivetrain out I don't remember that I had a lot of bits for the clutch. I do remember making sure to not lose the pin that goes into the hole on the side of the case, the reverse switch. The clutch fork, the pin, the disc and pressure plate, all that stuff got thrown out because when I went back together I installed new.
Because I primarily did all my stuff on the weekends, I gave each exhaust manifold nut a quick shot of PB Blaster each night when I when I got home. I did this for a week. That next weekend the heat exchangers came off fairly easy. I think it was only one or two studs that snapped.
Hint: heat can be your friend during tear down so get a small propane hand torch for those bolts that you will come across periodically.

gomezoneill 01-02-2017 05:15 AM

The exhaust allen head nut's are 8mm. Your shop/garage is wayyyyy to clean. It's wont stay like that for long.;);)

Mike Andrew 01-02-2017 06:06 AM

Bumper/valance removal makes things a lot easier as it provides more clearance. Not a big job considering all the other work involved.

75 911s 01-02-2017 06:14 AM

His garage is clean and what about his car! You could eat off those wheels! :-) GL with the drop and rebuild!

Tori 01-02-2017 06:52 AM


Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG (Post 9416551)
BTW, is there are reason you want to remove the HE's or is this when it is on the stand? If latter than that is okay.

Only considering removing them now since it may be a while before I can get it on an engine stand. Once it's laying on them im pretty much stuck to go any further. Besides, it doesn't look all that difficult to remove them at this stage.

Now, time to remove a wheel, my lady is calling me for breakfast. ;)

Tori 01-02-2017 07:10 AM


Originally Posted by mo-mon (Post 9416552)
G50 engine drop step by step.

87 Carrera engine drop (1 of 36)

mo-mon, thank you for that link! That's exactly what I needed. I'm the visual type and that answers all. Why use 40 words, when 6 will do. :D

hangar21 01-02-2017 07:29 AM

Tori & all,
Nice job, I'm sub'd. I'll be following as I'm almost ready to drop my 3.2 in my 87. I don't much about my cars engine, ODO indicates 87k. I've owned the car for 6 years & have had much fun! Good luck & keep us posted.

r-mm 01-02-2017 07:33 AM

Great project - I did my '87 3 years ago and will try to help where I can.

One tip right off the bat: don't ignore the slave cylinder and its soft line. The slave arm (hidden by boot) was totally detached on mine and the soft line was internally blistered (invisible) and they gave me grief down the road. Right time to replace!

r-mm 01-02-2017 07:35 AM

and btw - I would advise against removing the bumper. I got the bumper high enough with just a floor jack and some nice beefy HF 12ton jacks under the rear torsion bars, front wheels on the floor with beefy rubber chocks in front of them. This was a very stable arrangement for me and there was no shortage of clearance.

michael lang 01-02-2017 07:47 AM


Originally Posted by Tori (Post 9416763)
Only considering removing them now since it may be a while before I can get it on an engine stand. Once it's laying on them im pretty much stuck to go any further.

In all due respect, if it will be awhile before you have your engine on a stand, leave the heat exchangers attached. They will be a much better base for your engine to rest on than taking them off and having your engine resting on its case and exposed heads. Once you get it on a stand, then take the HEs off.
Put the front wheels back down on the ground. You will gain so much more height in the rear and it will help save you a ton of time by not having to remove the rear bumper.

r-mm 01-02-2017 07:53 AM

Lousy pictures from the pre-iPhone era (well, for me at least) but check the first few pics on my thread for jacks and angles for the bumper on drop

michael lang 01-02-2017 07:53 AM

Hopefully this will give you an idea of how much height you will need

75 911s 01-02-2017 08:48 AM

having just removed a rear bumper I'd advise against it as well. It's quite a bit of work especially with one person -as well as getting aligned properly can take time. You also may run the risk of the shock mount c clamp bolts snapping as they get exposed to elements and the bolts get frozen. Probably not on this newer car though.

Tori 01-02-2017 09:26 AM

thanks guys for the advise. I've removed the rear bumper and valance once before when i installed the Dansk. I don't think i'll need to remove it this time as i'll just drop the nose as mentioned. I'm already at 34.5" to the bottom of the red reflector so that should be close enough from what i've read.
Heat exchangers are off. I can use a couple blocks of wood to stabilize the motor as needed.

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