Refinishing Window Frames?
 

Has anyone had their black window frames powdercoated? What other methods have you used to refinish them? I'm worried that paint will not be durable enough. Is there a special paint that could be used for this application?

I've looked into getting them re-anodized, but the shops in my area won't touch the job. They said if they could re-anodize aluminum, they'd all make a fortune doing boat window frames. For some odd reason, it can be done effectively.

Thanks!

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Michael
'78 911SC Euro

I checked this out recently. I decided for my backdating project to change from black trim to the period-correct alum trim (I wish I'd kept the black for design reasons).
The alum trim I found wasn't perfect. I was told it could be dipped (I assume some sort of acid), polished, then re-anodized; however, the dip process removes some base material so it is not suitable for thinner pieces like the rear quarters - I've seen some reduced to something like wavey, thick alum foil.
I assume the cost would be high, too - you can always tell when the guy says "oh, I don't know, maybe $200 for everything. Give us a coupla weeks, we'll see what we can do, then we'll let you know." I find such open-ended terms to be dangerous.
I am surprised nobody in your area will consider the job, though. All the platers/anodizers I contacted were willing and able to do it. For me, I passed due to low perceived value.
Good luck. Hope this helps somewhat.

PS - I understand powder coating is not appropriate for this. It simply doesn't last.

I had my original '66 chrome-plated brass window frames (rusty, chipped, and faded) sandblasted and powdercoated semi-gloss black for about $40.

They look great, and the coating is very durable-one got knocked down from it's storage place high on the garage wall and didn't get a scratch.

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Clay McGuill '66 912 My 912's restoration website, '97 Jeep Cherokee, '70 Ford Bronco My Bronco's rebuild site

[This message has been edited by ClayMcguill (edited 10-18-2001).]

I've been told that powdercoating really doesn't come out as a smooth finish, rather having a mild orange-peel effect. Did your frames turn out smooth?

Thanks!!

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Michael
'78 911SC Euro

Your quarter window frames are made of brass not aluminum. The trim on the door top is aluminum. The window frame where the glass fits into is brass aswell. Mine are chrome plated. I had them out a few weeks back and I was able to see where the chrome ended and it was bare brass(hidden inside the door where its not visible). I dont see why a good shop cant bring them back to life. They need to be refinished as the factory had done originally for them to hold up for any length of time. Automotive paint will not last long on any friction surfaces. You may have to search the Hemmings Motor News Book for a good shop and ship them out....TargaEuro

Yes, the finish came out smooth since I had them sandblasted completely-it's really the surface prep that makes for a good finish on either paint or powdercoating-the smoother the suface, the better the final result will be. Usually, sand or beadblasting is used to strip away everything down to bare metal-it insures a good base.

Be careful, though-too aggressive of a blasting media can create huge pits and scratches in the base metal, so use the right type of media (and pressure) for the job (carbide grit for really, really, rusty cast iron or to remove welding slag, sand for most metals, walnut shells for internal engine, tranny, and electrical motor parts, and plastic pellets for sheetmetal and fiberglass.)

Check out <A HREF="http://www.eastwoodcompany.com"TARGET=_blank> Eastwood's site </A> for everything you need..

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Clay McGuill '66 912 My 912's restoration website, '97 Jeep Cherokee, '70 Ford Bronco My Bronco's rebuild site

I have to call ass on that. Sorry. I have had my aluminium door window frames and windscreen trim pieces polished and reanodised. Polishing was a crappy job (shoulda done it myself or found a better shop). Reanodising was bout US$4 per piece, regardless of size. Totally bizarre.

I am hoping the same place will reanodise my Fuchs for $4 each when I have refinished them. I suspect not.

They offered me anodising in a whole bunch of colours - I am sure black is one of them.

So try somewhere else. If they say they can't do it, tell them if someone in New Zealand can get it done then it can't be that hard!

Cam

Cam - that's great stuff! We in the States are probably just battling our own government wonks - the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency). And California's regulations are the worst! I do import/export with Australia - I'll have to check on sending such projects overseas.

By lightly sanding your trim and using a prep cleaner you can use trim paint that is sold at most autoparts stores. Not just flat black paint, but trim paint. I used it on my 1975 911 and it turned out great. No orange peel lays very smooth and the correct color not flat or glossy, but in the middle.

Take the trim to a body shop and they can spray one or two stage paint on for you. I tried the rattle can trim paint from tweeks and it just flaked off. It was not that expensive if you do alot of the prep work yourself. It came out looking alot better than the spray can paint.