NoVA Pelicanheads - Ball Joint removal tool - Loan?!

[kstylianos]

I took a week of vacation from work (use it or loose it)
and spending the majority of it underneath the 911.
Phase 1 of winter project has successfully started.
I'm removing the front suspension for a total going
over and rehab. I'm also rebuilding calipers, new
rotors, pads and bearings. Got the callipers, rotors,
shields and tie rods off this afternoon. But ran into
a snag trying to remove the ball-joint nut which
requires a special tool. I've tried the chisel and
pipe wrench techniques but no luck. Would anyone in
the NoVA area be willing to lend this special tool for
a day.....I will be willing to pick up and return by
thursday. Will also be willing to rent rent. I don't
want to loose a day waiting for UPS/FedEX to next day
air one to me.

Thanks in advance.

-Charlie

[DavidPorter]

I can't help you with that tool, but I think a NoVa tool-lending group is a great idea. So far I have a Pelican engine cradle (probably in use for a while), the screwdriver set for adjusting MFI, the socket bit for removing flywheel bolts, a PMO Weber float level gauge, probably some other stuff I don't remember. Unless actually in use I'd be happy to lend any of it for a few weeks. I'll try to make a real list.

[marcesq]

Charlie:

Are you talking about the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint?? If so that thing can be a PITA even with the socket.

If you are not replacing the ball joint you can remove the retainer bolt from the strut housing and let the A-arm drop with ball joint attached.

Good luck. I am without tool as well.

[rs911t]

Charlie - I can't help with the tool, but I'm keenly interested in your project. I plan to do the same with mine. Let me know if I can lend physical or moral support.

[kstylianos]

Thanks all,

A NoVA tool lending program would be a great idea. I've also posted my request for this tool on the Rennlist forums as well, but no useful leads yet. Looks like I may hae to resort to a dremel and order an new nut with the ball joint. I'm replacing the ball joint, thus the need to remove it, for those who were curious. Anyone interested in my progress and wants to lend a hand and learn with me, or just keep me company, feel free to come by anytime this week. Just drop me an e-mail and I'll give directions to the garage-of-warmth.

BTW: Its nice going through the whole front end....already found a goofy bearing. Inner bearing totally fell out of the inner race of the right front hub. The thing just flat fell out of the hub....about 1/16in hub-to-bearing clearance.

Anyone know of a good powder coater? Like to get some of this stuff looking nice before putting it back in. Also, anyone selling stock swaybars off a 84+ carrera. Would be a nice cheap upgrade for my 82.

Thanks again all....I'll keep you posted.

-Charlie

[Doug E]

Sorry Charlie, I don't have the tool and I have to work all week so I won't be able to make it by.

I will be attempting to replace my ball joints later this winter so I will be interested to know how your project turns out.

BTW, some of us here in NoVa have previously exchanged tools so anytime somebody needs anything they should just post it here and I'm sure someone will come to the rescue.

Good luck with your project and stay warm!

[scarebus]

Charlie,
Are you an A & P mechanic by any chance?
B-747 flap jackscrew removal tool fits ball
joint nut.

[Chuck Moreland]

Charlie,

Instead of buying the $60 porsche tool, I picked up a similar tool at a local auto parts store for about $10. I think it is made for pulling 4wd hubs or something. I believe it's a 2 1/4 inch size and works well.

Put your floor jack under it with some pressure to keep it from slipping off.

[APKhaos]

Charlie,
The local powder coater of choice is ASC - American Stripping Co in Manassas - 703 6310572. They really know their stuff with alloys, and have done a raft of Porsche work.

No association, just a happy customer. YMMV

BTW, I have a set of stock 85 sways - front & rear. Make an offer.

[targa911man]

Charlie--

Contact PORSHIN (Rob) in the Roanoke area.

[jpnovak]

I have a oxy/acetylene torch set if you need heat to remove the ball joints. sometimes a stubborn nut will loosen with heat. I am in Alexandria. call me 703-778-1606 if you need to.

Jamie

[jbailey930]

I second Tony's recommendation on ASCO in Manassas. They did all my tin and paintable engine parts for less than $300. You'll need to give them a couple of weeks to get it done.

I also have some 'loanable' speciality tools : 46mm crow's food cam socket and cam holding tool, stud extractor with 8mm and 10mm threads and yoke (which is still attached to my engine )

Best

[jtf914]

Sorry, I don't have any ball joint tools, but I'll chime in on 'loanable' specialty tools:

synchrometer
accelerator pump vial
float level gauge
remote starter switch (nice for doing compression tests)
Gunson Gas Tester wich also measures dwell/RPM etc...
leakdown tester (must have a compressor to use it with)
Jack adapter for dropping engines with standard jack


Justin

[rs911t]

Oooh, carb tools! I have yet to add those to the arsenal. But, what's a "Gunson Gas Tester"?

[jtf914]

The Gas Tester is used to measure CO level (mixture).

[kstylianos]

wow....thanks for all the support guys. I have yet been able to remove the ball joints from the a-arms, but it looks like i'll have to dremel them out. They are way mucked up from hammer/chisel and the pipe wrench method attempts. The a-arms are finally off the car on the work bench, so is should be easier trying to get them off w/o working on my back.

Again, thanks for the power coater lead. Once the ball joints come out, all the suspension components will be getting a fresh powder coat.

I'll also be installing the poly bushings on the a-arms. Anyone have experience hand fitting these. I dont have a lathe to cut them down to size so I will probably rig up something with a drill and vise. I'll also be installing the zirk grease fittings and cut grease grooves in the bushings.

I found a set of sway bars which shuld be here soon. Thanks again for the ofer.

Enjoy the snow all.

BTW - Tools I have to loan:

4 carb vaccuum sync. guages.
Pickle fork set - 3 sizes
3mm Allen key for CIS fuel adjustment (easy to find)
Timing light
Dwell/RPM meter (good for checking CIS lambda functioning frequency)

-Charlie

[kstylianos]

This afternoon I dropped my suspension bits off at ACSO in Manasses. The 2 a-arms, 2 strut housings, 2 brake dust deflectors, belly pan, cross member, a/c condenser cover and other small misc bits cost $225 and will be ready in 7-10 busines days.

The lady who helped was very nice and only charged me for the cross member, a-arms and struts as the other bits were not in 'the system'. She said that the stuff she charged me for were smaller than the ones they are used to seeing so she did not charge me for the rest. Very nice.

BTW: All the hours i spent peering through the window of the bead blaster was a waste. That price includes cleaning the old paint as they blast the parts right before coating anyway because 'the paint will stick better".

Hopefully I'll get a digi. cam. soon and start posting some pics. of my progress.

-Charlie

[Green 912]

I guess you got the ball joints off. If you like, send me an email and I will give you my ph #. I gots lots-O- tools from pistion ring gappers to a powder coater. I live in Falls Church near the West Falls metro. Be glad to help if you hit any snags.

Kurt

[kstylianos]

Kurt,

Once the a-arms were off the car, I was able to slice the castle nut into 1/4's with a Dremmel. Then wacking one of the 1/4's off the ball joint with a chisel and a hammer was all it took to free the 2 pieces.

Everything is going smoothly so far. I have not damaged any major pieces in disassembly and im not a Porsche pancake

Thaks for the offer. I may have to take you up on the powder coating stuff when its time for the rear suspension and engine drop. Mabye end of Jan. Applications now being accepted for another NoVA engine drop.


-Charlie

[Green 912]

Be glad to help out with other things but power coating is messy and the curing produces toxic gasses so I only plan it for warm weather.