3.0 to 3.6 conversion. What parts are no longer needed?
 

Want to pull the motor and everthing not needed for the 3.6 conversion. Obvioulsy, the 3.0 is not needed. But what do I need to keep from the 3.0 set up to run the 3.6? I am using Dr. Timmins kit. starter ring? any wiring to the engine? CDI components? A pic of the driver side engine compartment would be great.

Unless you have pressing space issues, I'd keep everything until the 3.6L conversion is done and driving. When my conversion was in progress, the shop sent me home with a bus load of parts that were not needed; then I would get calls "Hey, do you still have ______? Can you bring it down?" Examples are the starter gear, oil lines, some misc clamps and h/w,

You *can* get rid of the long block, except for the ring gear; heater blower; CDI box.

Thom, You sure about the CDI box? I'm in trouble if this is needed.

Paul, I'm in the process right now so I'll probably find stuff I got rid of and should have kept. You will not need the fuel accumulator or filter. You will need the ring gear. You will not need the coil and I didn't think the CDI box but Thom says differently. You will also need the ducting from the exchangers to the cabin.

I agree w/ Thom, in general it's best to have everything in the same shop until it's done. These little projects have a habit of taking unexpected turns.

One item to save for the new engine is the oil temp. sender. I am happy w/ the exaggerated indicated readings on the oil pressure sensor so I kept the 964 one. You may have different opinions on these issues.

The starter ring is often chewed up, inspect and replace as needed. You may want to swap the whole electric panal for a 964 one(you definitely will not need the CDI box itself, I still have mine for sale), it can be done either way. The starter and halfshafts should be inspected and rebuilt as necessary. Of course the clutch, p/p, t/o/b, nose bearing and flywheel should be very suspect unless new.

This is also a good time to make sure that all of the shift linkage bushings are in good shape. Maybe a shortshifter or shiftlockout?

I take it the solution to the temp sensor accuracy is to a)have the guage recalibrated or b)use the temp sensor from a 3.0l or c)live with wrong readings. I'm okay with "C" as long as there is someway to understand what the new exaggerated temps are. What is the best way to get an oil temp reading without relying on the temp sensor? I might have access to an infared pyrometer, where is the best place to aim it?

Thanks

Sorry, poor sentence structure. You *can* ditch the CD box.

The temp sensor just needs to match the gauge. I had unfortunately shipped the old sender off w/ the old engine before this was realized. The solution was to purchase a new '76 sender.

The same for the oil pressure, but since I don't really care about the absolute oil pressure, I elected to use the 964 sender with the '76 gauge. This results in double the range of motion at the gauge. i.e. 10 bar on the gauge is really 5bar in the oil gallery.

Shipped my old sender off as well, bad for me, good for Pelican.