1986 Carrera Suspension Mods, more on

[DrRiPitt]

I parked my 86 911 in 2003 with need for a new clutch. Between 2003 and now, I have been collecting parts. (I owned a 993 TT, just sold it)

Eventually, the engine and new clutch will be reunited, but first I am going to share my suspension mods.

There is much information about most of the upgrades I will do (for example, removing the control arm), so I will only focus on procedures or photos that will add to our growing body of knowledge, being supplemented by previous authors.
Below, excel ss copy and pasted. I started this spreadsheat April, 2008, I will update it as I go.

Check out Craig_D's lengthy and beautiful write up:

'78 SC Elephant Racing Suspension Rebuild

Part Type cost
$6,524.00
Front hollow sway bars, adjustable, through body, Tarett susp $475.00
Rear hollow sway bars, adjustable, Tarett susp $475.00
front camber plates, adjustable (ER) susp $450.00
Polybronze bushing set front (ER) susp $260.00
Polybronze bushing set rear (ER) susp $315.00


susp
Decambered ball joint front (ER) susp $390.00

Bump steer susp $360.00
Turbo tie rods susp $215.00

Adjustable spring plate, rear. (ER) susp $1,200.00
Monoblock bushings, inner trailing arm susp
rear camber adjuster, MAX (ER) susp $200.00
Spindle height change susp
brembo monoblok, 4 caliper, Front brakes $1,600.00
rotors slotted (included with the above) brakes


wheels and tires susp
shocks susp


Revalved Bilstein front shocks (cartridge)
Revalved Bilstein rear shocks upgradable to Coil-overs

1/2 AXLES REBUILD (boots susp $39.00
BEARINGS:
Front hubs
Rear outer trailing arm





Brake cooling ducts (tarrett) brakes $295.00
ext mirrors.

[DrRiPitt]

This is what we are starting with. I posted this shot mainly to show the area that needed to be cleaned up for welding the reinforcement for the through-body torsion bar.





The reinforcement plate is circled in red.


'78 SC Elephant Racing Suspension Rebuild

So I don't forget, I highly recommend this lengthy and incredibly detailed report on many of the mods I am doing.

I am doing it a little different. Tarrett TB's, Bigger Brakes, beefier shocks, body reinforcement welding. I will do all of my own Powder Coating, electroplating etc.

[DrRiPitt]

I am going to do one quarter of the suspension at a time, as near as possible. I do not know how long the build will take, but upwards of 6-12 months.

Here is the LCA fresh out of the car. The bushing holder for the factory roll bar has to be cut off and ground smooth to weld 'U' tab for the suspension system.




Reading through other tech forums I see that the rubber bushings when replaced have to be 'set' using protractor. So I thought I'd see what it looked like when stock. Knowing that I will not need to to that b/c of the polybronze replacement bushings.




REMOVING THE RUBBER BUSHINGS










GETTING READY FOR POWDER COATING: Paint stripping, then media blasted.





Without the Pelican Parts forum, I would not have been brave enough to even start. Thanks everyone, especially Craig_D

[DrRiPitt]

Can only upload 10 photos at a time. Here are the last two.

[DrRiPitt]

Something went wrong with the post in a posting this message. These photographs show the location in the will, well that needs to be drilled, and reinforcement plate welded in place in order to install the Tarrett engineering torsion bars.





The part that needs to be welded is circled in red.

[HorstP]

Nice! Doing similar things, just on the sway bars I am still stock.

Are these also 996 brakes (you are just saying brembo 4 piston..) ?

[DrRiPitt]

These are the front brakes. I bought them in 2002. I am not sure what I am going to do with the rear brakes--whether or not to rebuild them or upgrade to something similar to the front.

[DrRiPitt]

More gel stripping of components prior to media blasting today.
side photo of my work environment:
You can see the factory sway bar hanging. Cords are for lights.


PICTURE OF THE FACTORY TIE ROD END.




WHEEL WELL NUDE FACTORY CAMBER PLATE WILL BE REPLACED



CAMBER PLATE REPLACEMENT OUTLINED IN BLUE





UNUSUAL SHOT BROM BOTTOM UP W/FUEL TANK GONE & SHOWS WHERE THE ROLL BAR WILL TRANSVERSE IN YELLOW

[DrRiPitt]

Here is the Photo: YELLOW LINE SHOWS PATH OF THE THROUGH BODY ROLL BAR

[Gordo2]

I did a similar suspension upgrade on on '83SC.

Recommend looking into adding "hiem joint boots" to your list of stuff. The boots slip over the helm / swivel joint of the drop links.

The Tarrett adjustable drop links are nice, but about a year after install mine made a loud clunking noise when I drove over bumps - I though something was drastically wrong with my suspension...

I'm going to add the boots to mine, which I think will allow the heim (swivel) joints to remain lubricated and environmentally protected - which I'm hoping will reduce the clunking sound mine make when I drive over bumps.

You may also want to consider adding Wevo RARB rear sway bar mounts while you have things apart and are welding stuff in.

Good luck.

[DrRiPitt]

Gordo,
Thanks much for your comments.
I will look into the Heim joint boots.
In 1995 I reinforced the rear sway bar mounts after the right side broke. No problems since then.

I am hoping to get one side done and the through body roll bar in place by Jan 2, cause school starts up again and my availability will drastically decrease as I also work full time.

After suspension, I will convert to carburetion and fully electronic ignition with elimination of the coil.

Up next: powder coating of left front suspension components. I am using a dark green/ Yellow scheme in honor of my School colors, even though they Farked theDog last season in football

[DrRiPitt]

Will these work:?

https://www.amazon.com/Seals-Rers3-6pk-Rod-End-Boots/dp/B00TO69ALQ

[Arne2]

I'm assuming from a couple of comments here that you may be local to me. PM me if you need a hand, maybe I can fit some time in to help if needed.

[Craig_D]

Very nice! I approve! :-)

One question, if you're doing the raised spindles, you shouldn't need a bump steer kit because your steering/suspension geometry will be close to stock, even with the car lowered. Maybe I'm missing something.

Can't wait to follow your thread. Enjoy the process!

Cheers,

- Craig_D

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by DrRiPitt

Will these work:?

https://www.amazon.com/Seals-Rers3-6pk-Rod-End-Boots/dp/B00TO69ALQ

I think so - I haven't ordered mine yet. Just dropped the engine for some trans work and will be adding the drop link boots while the car's down for the winter.

Installation of the boots appears pretty easy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF8ssC5q1dc

I have a variety of posts addressing installation of some of the components you are installing - search by my username, or post any questions you have as you progress and I (along with the rest of the Pelican community) will help any way we can...


Gordo

[DrRiPitt]

I am in Salem and I appreciate all of the comments! I am not going to change the spindle heights-yet.
I hope to post the powder coating process by tomorrow eve.

[HorstP]

Reason you preferred the Tarrett bars over the parts from ER? Changing the sway bars is one of the last things I need/want to do, everything else is pretty much done (with ER parts)

[RichardNew]

HorstP is correct. Sway bars are really a tuning device and you only adjust them once everything else is correct.

The big problem is the adjustment. It's really difficult to go fast enough on the street to know which direction you want to go. At the track we can use tire temperatures so adjustment is easy.



Richard Newton
Turbo Tie Rod Ends

[DrRiPitt]

Understand that most of these parts were purchased over 10 years ago and life happened in between. I fueled my Porsche craving by driving a '96 Turbo, until I sold it a year ago; now getting that craving again. I do not know why I decided on Tarett back then. I actually purchase them from ER, so does that count?

Sway bars are just part of what I am doing-see the list above.

Heading over to the shop to finish the left front parts clean-up and powder coating.

[HorstP]

ok, understand. By then probably Chuck did not even have his adjustable sway bars. Don't think he still sells the Tarrett.