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These parts are fairly new, but the tab holding the cotter pin broke. I was thinking re-drilling new hoes and moving on. Comments?



Trying to figure out how to remove bushings. Again these look fairly new but they are getting replaced. I can remove with extreme prejudice. Thinking saws-all.





the other parts

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Ken

'69 911E
Old 10-30-2017, 03:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #541 (permalink)
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Ken, you are doing too much work. Send as is, I'll take care of everything.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:50 PM
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tie rods

I went down to wrestle with the remaining yoke and the entire steering box moved, the bolt fell out. See? Not a clue.

Bob blessed the turbo tie rods and he's conservative.

How do you get this part off? Does the steering box have to come down?



I see where the crossmember attaches to the steering rack. it's just free floating.

Check out this mess of fuel lines.



There is a brown electrical connection just hanging there with no apparent place to plug it. The fuel pump has two connections accounted for.

Seems like I could clean up this spaghetti mess of lines, anyone care to share pics of what pros do with all this? Is the filter necessary or redundant, considering the huge one in the engine bay. Plus, being under the plate, makes changing it a royal pita.

Flo, do you subscribe to a Porsche link to get schematics or pay as you play?

One thing for sure up front, the Tarett anti-sway bar is going to look fitting with the turbo tie rods. It sounds b1tchen just saying it.
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Ken

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Old 10-30-2017, 05:25 PM
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Tie rods

What's going on here? Just the end piece has to come off, right?

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Ken

'69 911E
Old 10-30-2017, 08:29 PM
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this..

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Old 10-31-2017, 01:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #545 (permalink)
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Thanks Flo. That's a relief to know. Those new ones are going to look awesome.

I had to see what something finished looks like...not really finished, just the new hard brake line from the master to the first junction and new braided line with new clip. The new brake lines are going to stand out with the unfinished wheel wells. Right, and there's another job created by an errant observation.

I thought I saw the light at the end of the tunnel for a nano second, but no, it just keeps getting farther away. Remember when it was just fixing the oil leak?

I think I'ld like to try my hand at some custom tube bending.
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'69 911E

Last edited by kghjr; 10-31-2017 at 06:20 AM..
Old 10-31-2017, 01:22 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #546 (permalink)
 
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engine

...got a peek at my engine today.



Some lame brain glued the thermostat housing in place. Of course the glue failed and leaked, but the thermostat is not moving. The engine has to be turned upside down to prevent glue debris from falling into the crankcase, as the thermostat is being dug out.



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Old 10-31-2017, 03:52 PM
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Hi Ken,

For removing the bushings I recommend a propane torch. I simply heated up the metal and the bushings started to smoke and melt and then more or less fell out. Make sure they smoke for a good long while and don't forget to wear an approved mask. For the steering rack I simply took the whole thing out. If I recall it was fairly easy once everything under the rack was removed.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkinzli View Post
Hi Ken,

For removing the bushings I recommend a propane torch. I simply heated up the metal and the bushings started to smoke and melt and then more or less fell out. Make sure they smoke for a good long while and don't forget to wear an approved mask. For the steering rack I simply took the whole thing out. If I recall it was fairly easy once everything under the rack was removed.
Thanks Kristoph, I stopped by Storz, he lent me a special washer and the biggest ball peen hammer I have ever seen. Those babies came right out.

It would be nice to drop the steering rack. Do I have to worry about screwing up the steering alignment?

Check it out, a finished sub-system, the front brake lines from the master cylinder to the braided line.






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Old 11-01-2017, 10:14 AM
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rear brake lines

Rears are in, up to the trailing arm tabs. The driver's side is refurbished.



The piece they sent was not even close to fitting, but out of 10 pieces, the only one. Here's where could have used a tube bender.


I could have saved a c-note by refurbishing all, but the new ones look new, not refurbished. 100% of the pitting does not go away.
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'69 911E

Last edited by kghjr; 11-02-2017 at 06:08 PM..
Old 11-01-2017, 05:11 PM
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Jeeze-O-Pete, I just wanted to clean off the grease.

The hubs, dust plates and hardware off to Shaun's Tru-6 Restoration for re-plating.



The turbo tie rods and the Elephant front bushings came in today. Storz offered their bushing install tool, saved big.




How hard is it to drop the steering rack?

Does your heart go pitter-pat when you see the Pelican taped box? Oh yeah...
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'69 911E

Last edited by kghjr; 11-02-2017 at 06:47 PM..
Old 11-02-2017, 06:07 PM
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struts

..any thoughts on taking these apart, not being in the car. Loosening the nut on the top.
Too late at night to try air wrench on it. Tomorrow. Put it in a vice, take an impact wrench to it? One of the boots is obviously broken. The struts and spindles are in good shape.

What part of it goes in the vice?

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'69 911E

Last edited by kghjr; 11-02-2017 at 09:41 PM..
Old 11-02-2017, 09:39 PM
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no impact wrench!!

spray top nut with wd40 (or similar), set wrench on nut, grab strut tip with a plier to secure against rotation and undo nut.
done.
under the rubbercover you will find a large ring nut to undo as well.
Bilstein Shock & Strut Install - '83 SC W/Boge Notes
Boge front struts problem - difficulty removing shock absorber insert

and beware of leaked oil spilling! retreive damper from strut by pulling upwards. have rags ready!

edit: and protect those bearing shafts of the struts while handling em so they dont get hit and damage the surface!!
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Last edited by Flojo; 11-03-2017 at 02:56 AM..
Old 11-03-2017, 02:40 AM
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Thanks Flo, I think I will not take them completely apart, just the top part, to be able to change the rubber boots and bushings and clean up the mounting plates.

By the time I'm done, every single busing on the entire car will be new.

Right, protect the spindles. I'll wrap 'em up.

One last job, dropping the steering rack.
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Last edited by kghjr; 11-03-2017 at 03:21 PM..
Old 11-03-2017, 02:30 PM
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Great progress Ken! If I recall dropping the steering rack was easy. Getting it back is was the hard part!
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkinzli View Post
Great progress Ken! If I recall dropping the steering rack was easy. Getting it back is was the hard part!
I'm trying to figure out how to remove the end pieces without removing the rack. With all the books I have you would think one would have a paragraph about how to do that. No.

I think I have reached my limit for deconstruction. One last thing is getting it ready for the turbo tie rods.
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:47 AM
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I don't know why you can't use an impact on the strut nuts. It is true that on the Koni's with the external adjuster (Yellows) it is forbidden. Not on these, I would think it is not a problem.

Can't you use two crescent wrenches to get the tierod ends off? The rack has flats and you could grab the end with the bushing to spin it off, I would think.
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Last edited by Trackrash; 11-06-2017 at 09:06 AM..
Old 11-06-2017, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
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I don't know why you can't use an impact on the strut nuts. It is true that on the Koni's with the external adjuster (Yellows) it is forbidden. Not on these, I would think it is not a problem.

Can't you use two crescent wrenches to get the tierod ends off? The rack has flats and you could grab the end with the bushing to spin it off, I would think.
Thanks, but on the struts, I just want to paint them. I'm not going to the trouble of taking them apart. The top nut will come right off when the strut is back on the car. I can do the bushings and boots last.

I have not noticed the flat spot on the rack piston, I'll go look for it. Bob said the washer right behind the end piece acts as a place for the boot spring clamp and as a lock which must be loosened first. He suggests an impact punch on the indent.
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Old 11-06-2017, 03:51 PM
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The rack has flats on both sides, it is not totally clindrical. You can put a wrench on it. I would then use another wrench on the tierod end and try that way. I should come loose. True there is a locking collar, if the two wrenches don't work you could use a punch or air chisel, I guess.
Here is what it looks like.

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Old 11-06-2017, 04:11 PM
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Old 11-06-2017, 04:21 PM
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