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new vs original

Good thing I stopped to take a pic, the filter is the wrong size, I forgot to get two new washers. The tank had been missing a tie down for awhile.

I was going to get a new vent tube, but I'll keep the original in play for now. It turned completely hard, like plastic, not rubbery at all. The original clamps are remarkably good, they're staying. We'll have some new, some original, when the bonnet opens.




The shipping bags from Pelican come in handy for keeping the old parts

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles
Old 12-05-2017, 01:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #621 (permalink)
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Smuggler's box

On the search for replaced plugs for the 15mm holes. Bruce thinks he might have found the big 9cm round one at the bottom of the box; $40. The other round thing is a welded plate. The big one is a hole covered by a fabric cap, which disintegrates if you look at it wrong.

The small plugs are not available.

What about all the rust? Address it? Leave it alone? Get rid of it and paint?

I'm asking for what a purist might say about all this, not that there is anything wrong with being a purist building or owning a concourse P-car. Mad respect. If I had not broken my dad's 356C Super 90 in 1965, I would have inherited it in 2015, probably just like this. Dad took care of stuff. Me, I was a 15 year old juvvy candidate stealing a Porsche on a regular basis.




I am not trying to turn this car into a concourse car, but neither I am trying to accidentally ruin it for the future possibility. So far, I have thrown away one old part, the engine bay pad, a straw mess, ripped and torn, to Beverly Hillbilly status. I've lost a few washers and rusted out nuts and bolts.

The search for these plugs...



I still have all the originals. The rubber funnel from the heater box to the drain tube is not available. Any ideas? What is that round hole for? Air conditioning components? There is no plate available, but it looks like two screws held one down.



There's the $40 cap. DON"T TOUCH IT!!! Is this big round hole associated with the other big round hole? I can make this box look new, clean enough to eat off.


Clean the rust to bare metal, cover with frame paint. Yes?

I mean, look at this shot, fugly; avert your eyes. Do I have to take the wiper motor off to be able to pull the clock? I forgot to ask Pelican about those plastic base pieces underneath the defroster valves. The way they have been rebuilt several times is not a good sign. Unobtanium.

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-06-2017 at 02:13 PM..
Old 12-06-2017, 02:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #622 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kghjr View Post
[SIZE="2"]Og]

What is that round hole for? Air conditioning components? There is no plate available, but it looks like two screws held one down.


]
Webasto heater???

I'll look at mine tomorrow and see what is in there.
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Matthew - drove Nurburgring with wipers on and no rain
1969 911E
2002 996 Cabrio
1995 993 Carrera 4 SOLD
2004 Land Rover Discovery II G4 Edition (Sold )
Old 12-06-2017, 04:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #623 (permalink)
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smuggler's box

I just noticed the hole on top empties into a cavity off the box. Some piece of equipment fit in there.

I need to move the fuel level sender wire out of the frame. It creates an optical illusion. The head of the connector covers the rubber funnel of the fresh air box drain tube gong through the cavity in the box

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles
Old 12-06-2017, 07:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #624 (permalink)
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Sorry, I checked. I have the same hole and nothing covering it. I've also looked at some other photos of cars with Webasto heaters. It looks like they had a hose from the heater in smuggler's box to the defrost vent area that ran through this hole.

Good thing I looked. I found out I have mice. They had eaten up a piece of paper and dragged part of my car duster from the rear foot well all the way into the frunk. I cleared it out but now have to figure out if they have cleared out as well.

Crap.
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Matthew - drove Nurburgring with wipers on and no rain
1969 911E
2002 996 Cabrio
1995 993 Carrera 4 SOLD
2004 Land Rover Discovery II G4 Edition (Sold )

Last edited by matthewb0051; 12-07-2017 at 09:23 AM.. Reason: heater info
Old 12-07-2017, 09:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #625 (permalink)
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My 69 has a round fiberboard cover which is glued over the hole. Several years ago I found evidence of mice in the trunk, the "$40 cap" was missing, and the fiberboard cover had been pushed off. Found a nice used cap, and re-glued the cover. No more mice in trunk.
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Dave

1969 911T Coupe
1972 911E Targa
Old 12-07-2017, 09:49 AM
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Crossmember

What a bit**, getting the steering rack bolts started. Spent way too much time to get nowhere.


These two crossmember to steering rack bolts are extremely hard to start and extremely easy to cross thread...after about an hour messing with this side, and this is the easy side


I have to put prying pressure on the rack with one hand and try to start the bolt with the other.

I have the crossmember on a jack, and have to wiggle the steering rack into position to be able to thread the bolt by hand at least three turns. With no pressure on it, I can thread the bolt all the way in by fingers.

The threads are clean and true. In this pic the crossmember is hanging by the rear bolts. I'll try attaching the middle two, secure the crossmember, then attach the rack.

I duplicated the set up that was on there for the fuel lines. I think the one with the filter on it can be reduced.
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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-10-2017 at 09:43 AM..
Old 12-09-2017, 07:33 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #627 (permalink)
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crossmember

Hello my pretty, one side finished.

Hang crossmember very loosely from all four corners, detach tie rod ends, wiggle vigorously until holes line up. Before starting, test every boss for ease of bolt movement. I was able to screw every bolt all the way with finger pressure. Makes it way easier to start the bolts when you know it fits like it should.

...lost the bolt for the other side, gotta go get another one. I was able to snug this one up with finger pressure. What a great feeling, snugging it with fingers, you know the threads are perfect.

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-10-2017 at 02:55 PM..
Old 12-10-2017, 02:52 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #628 (permalink)
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Anyone know where these go?

Newbie move, forgot to bag and label. They came off the front end somewhere.



I'm not a total loser,



Went to Storz to get there three bolts I lost and the front end gets re-assembled today, less calipers and dust shields.

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles
Old 12-11-2017, 11:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #629 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kghjr View Post
Newbie move, forgot to bag and label. They came off the front end somewhere.



]
Those look like the screws that hold blower motor cover in place
Old 12-11-2017, 01:27 PM
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Front suspension done

Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewb0051 View Post
Those look like the screws that hold blower motor cover in place
Yea, brilliant Matthew. I can sleep again.

Fuel tank is finished. All new parts, gaskets, except for elbow, which is no longer available. The washers and plug are new.



The front suspension is finished, except I have to load the torsion bars. Right now, I have to go cook dinner. I've been at this since 8 am.

Best to leave fuel pump out of the way until last.

The new parts did not line up without major coaxing. I wrestled with everything, the crossmember, the A-arms, the struts. It finally came down to undoing the crossmember from the chassis, leaving it firmly secured to the steering rack, and then barely start the front two bolts of the A-arm, just enough to get the thread, then start the big bolt in the middle, again barely starting the bolt, finish with the last one. Tighten all to specs.

The rock guard has been powder coated, gets put on after I make sure all these lines are proper and brake lines are tight.



New inserts, insert bushings, new camber plate bushings, new brake lines and clamps, new fuel lines and clamps, new turbo tie rods, new Tarett Engineering anti-sway bar, new A-arm bushings, old Chrysler insert rock guards



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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-11-2017 at 09:17 PM..
Old 12-11-2017, 04:47 PM
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Wheels, what to do

The madness has rooted.

The wheels are all original, never been refinished, all are fair to poor, totally functional, but rough, imho. How can I put that trash on my new suspension?

A Les Schaub tire shop around the corner will split the tires off and has used wheel shipping boxes out back, for the taking. I can send them anywhere.

This seems to be one the areas where I can really mess up, what to do with the wheels. I can guarantee this is way over DIY for me. Peter Principle for sure. (rising to the level of one's own incompetence). I've done all the reading. The one thing I could do is strip them down to bare metal, but I would not do that. The question is, original aged or original re-done?

Here's a pic of the worst one



Best one


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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles
Old 12-13-2017, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kghjr View Post
The madness has rooted.

The wheels are all original, never been refinished, all are fair to poor, totally functional, but rough, imho. How can I put that trash on my new suspension?

A Les Schaub tire shop around the corner will split the tires off and has used wheel shipping boxes out back, for the taking. I can send them anywhere.

This seems to be one the areas where I can really mess up, what to do with the wheels. I can guarantee this is way over DIY for me. Peter Principle for sure. (rising to the level of one's own incompetence). I've done all the reading. The one thing I could do is strip them down to bare metal, but I would not do that. The question is, original aged or original re-done?

Here's a pic of the worst one



Best one


Ken, those appear to actually be in pretty good shape. If you are not building a Concours machine you may just live with them. Original only once. If you insist on refinish, I highly recommend you do not go the DIY route. I promise you this. If you want to lightly shoot the black this is doable but only original once. 3M fine line and lots of patience and and light coat should do. But read my first comment again! If you want them completely refinished Rick Hartbrodt does very high quality work for reasonable cost and most importantly very reasonable turn around times. He has been doing Porsche's for a long time. The best in the business is Harvey Weidman, but I don't think you want to wait a year plus.

Ricks email is
FreddyPorsche@icloud.com

Fuchs Restoration Rick Hartbrodt

He is on the bird somewhere also. His prices are clearly stated on his website.
Old 12-13-2017, 06:40 PM
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Ken, those appear to actually be in pretty good shape. If you are not building a Concours machine you may just live with them. Original only once.
Thanks merbes, I can live with original aged for awhile, I guess. There is no way I am trying any DIY on them. Leave 'em for the next owner to have something to do. I am not building a concourse car, but all of my replacement parts will qualify.
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'69 911E
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385,000 miles
Old 12-13-2017, 06:53 PM
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Shoot, I had to go and look at Rick's website and that's all it took to put the wheels on the to-do list.

I just need the Ranchero to get sold and I'll go crazy on P-car.

Look what I found at Stoddard (unavailable here), rubber fitting for drain plug of fresh air box.



I decided not to paint all this, just remove surface rust and all the duct tape residue, there is old adhesive residue from trying to glue the side panels, then spot-paint bare spots. I could not do a proper paint job without removing everything. Painting around all the junk would look half-assed for sure.

I cleaned it with mineral spirits, still needs more. Removing the gas tank really made working in here a lot easier. There are plastic base pieces under the heater valves, not sold separately, or at all, and I'm wondering if anyone has ever done a 3-D printed one. Mine are hobbled together.

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-14-2017 at 06:47 AM..
Old 12-14-2017, 06:44 AM
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sway bar

I was going to make up some malarky about how I wanted the sway bar to pop, if you pulled the carpet back, because the yellow zinc did not pop. It was almost invisible.

The truth is, rust dissolver dripped on it and I did not notice the drips before I got distracted and when I got back, the finish was destroyed, so I sanded it all off with 600 then 2000 grit wet/dry and sprayed it with engine enamel.

It will pop now



Already have plan B, if I scratch it on installation, powder coating.


The heater valves and shocks pop

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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-16-2017 at 08:26 AM..
Old 12-16-2017, 08:24 AM
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Rear end

Start, June 2017




Today
I can see the right O-ring cable guide needs to rotate counter-clockwise about 5 degrees, left side slightly clock-wise, loosen clamp and cable stop, 10mm & 7mm




Yellow and red are on Porsche factory bib cover-alls. I have a pair, will never wear them, have too many old Levis and old shirts; who cares if they get trashed?
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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-17-2017 at 10:02 AM..
Old 12-16-2017, 10:34 AM
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washer reservoir

Before and after. The inside was moldy, soaked it in bleach for a few hours. I went after the outside with gasoline soaked 400 grit, finished with 2000 water wet









I do these cosmetic posts and then read about a guy replacing the entire nose, seems ridiculous, but I'm just documenting everything here, instead of starting a blog build sheet. I like the feature of the threads being publicly available. Some of my friends are following it now. It would take forever to catch a blog up at this point.
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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles

Last edited by kghjr; 12-18-2017 at 04:27 PM..
Old 12-16-2017, 07:53 PM
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Das Boot

Start, covered in decades old duct tape and spray adhesive residue. I was asking about the plastic piece below the valve, not sold separately. Not sure if the whole thing is available or not. These have evidence of amateurish repairs.



Today. First round, could not just spot paint, tried to make it uniform. I like the red anti-sway bar. That piece can be removed and replaced in a couple hours, the struts have to come loose from the top first.



For future reference, if the top of the strut is removed and replaced, the alignment needs to be re-set, right?
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Ken

'69 911E
one family
385,000 miles
Old 12-17-2017, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kghjr View Post

For future reference, if the top of the strut is removed and replaced, the alignment needs to be re-set, right?
That would be correct Ken.. unless you could position it exactly as it was.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:11 AM
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