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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Kingston, ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG View Post
Did you use a jig prior to torqueing down the pinion?
Since I'm asking "what jig?", I guess not.

I held the input shaft with a tool, locked it in a gear and used a torque wrench. Basically following Pete Zimmerman's how-to series.
Old 05-16-2018, 02:13 PM
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jig

This jig:



Use this then button the bracket down and torque the pinion and shaft nuts to insure everything lines up and rotates without binding. Once all lines up remove and place case and test again.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:08 PM
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Yeah, I don't have that jig, I just installed the center section and snugged it up. Everything was moving freely until I tightened the pinion nut.
I did put new 4-point bearings in and of course new 1st and 2nd synchros. Differential didn't come out and same pinion so I re-used the same shim behind the retainer.
Old 05-17-2018, 04:15 AM
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Does anyone have a CNC file or a drawing of that jig so I can make myself one?
My mechanic friend looked at it last night and said he thinks the pinion shaft is a little stiff, but he'd use it as is.

Is there a spec for torque needed to rotate the shafts?

I tried loosening the nut, shaft turns freely, well, maybe 20lb/in (torque wrench starts at 25lb/in), if I start torquing down the nut I get to about 50lb/ft and my baby torque wrench says it now takes 35lb/in to turn. Torqued down to spec it is about 50lb/in to turn the transmission over from the pinion nut.
Is this too much?
The only thing I can think of that could cause would be squeezing the two inner-races of the 4-point bearing with too little clearance in the bearing.

Last edited by blur911; 05-18-2018 at 11:17 AM..
Old 05-18-2018, 04:58 AM
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Did you give the bearings a light coating of gear oil? If they’re dry, they would tighten up a bit when you torque the nut. The whole shaft assembly is a long stack of parts that is squished together when you torque the nuts that are staked to the shafts
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:40 AM
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