Steering wheel movement

[curlesw]

I just completed a couple of weeks of DIY tasks that required the P-car to be on jack stands for about 3 weeks. This morning I noticed for the first time the steering wheel will move about 1/4-3/8 of an inch upwards. I placed the jack stands in the location as shown in Wayne 101 book…any possible relation between these two events?

If not, where should I look first? Hopefully the answer will include buying a new 930 steering wheel.

Thanks in advance.

v/r
Wayne C
83 SC

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by curlesw
Ithe steering wheel will move about 1/4-3/8 of an inch upwards.
v/r
Wayne C
83 SC

there is a bushing on the steering wheel shaft.. the original were kinda plastic, which gets beat up over time.. the replacement is metal and inexpensive.. if you figure the bushing is shot at the top of shaft Pelican Parts has them for inexpensive $.........Ron

[Wavey]

curlesw,

Very likely the upper steering shaft bushing. Piece of cake to replace. You just pull the wheel and drive the replacement metal bushing in place - it pushes the old plastic bushing out.

I ended up with an extra metal one I'll send you for free - send me a private message with your address.

[youzoid]

Just checking - the steering wheel on a 72 isn't adjustable is it? I'd love an extra inch of knee room.

[curlesw]

Thanks for the help guys...might as well fix the problem with my turn signal as well while I'm in there. With the lights on, the turn signal causes the brights to come on once the turn signal clicks off...very frustrating.

Wavey, thanks for the offer, I sent you a PM.

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

[Wavey]

Wayne, the part is on the way. You might find some pieces of the old plastic bushing are causing your turn signal problem. Good luck with it!

[MBAtarga]

I found that a short (3") pipe (normally used to hang a ceiling fan) was a perfect fit over the steering wheel shaft and to drive the metal bushing.

[curlesw]

Wavey, thanks, I owe you a beer if you are every int he San Diego area.

MM, good suggestion, I think I have a couple of extra pipes just like those from a recent ceiling fan project, thanks!

Wayne C.
83 SC

[bigchillcar]

curlesw,

do the cheap troubleshooting always recommended with electrical problems. could be a grounding issue. i'd open up the turn signal assemblies and clean up the contacts...it solved my problem with the gauge turn signal indicators both flashing when only one was selected...just a hunch.
Ryan

[Sean Hamilton]

If the movement is vertical, like in and out then I'd suspect the upper shaft nut or lower shaft spline joints. If the movement is lateral, sideways and up and down then yeah, I'd look to the upper and/or lower shaft bearings.
Others here have indicated their success with the upper bearing shaft bushing but when I went that path it didn't work for me. It was worth a try as it is an inexpensive option but you realise the when you tap in the new metal bushing it'll destroy the existing bearing plastic bushing. Worse case scenario is you may end up back where you started I guess.
I ended up replacing both upper and lower bearings with OEM type and although expensive (labour $$) I now have good as new absolutely zero movement.
Check out this link:- Steering column bushing ordered...any tips?

[Silveresrty911S]

Wayne,

I've had my steering wheel off about 6 times trying to get the headlights /blinkers all working the way they are suppose to from the used switch I bought off e-bay. If cleaning contacts, bending the lower bar doesn't work just get a new one. Unless you like removing all that stuff, I had mine fixed for a week or two and then the high beams would come on after the turn signal returned.
I'm breaking down and buying a new one, although I can now remove the wheel, shrouds, horn contact , turn sig switch, bend bar, clean and replace everything in about 15 minutes
Let me know if you need any help.

Rick

[Wil Ferch]

Question:
This comes up every so often...the plastic bushing that breaks up and the advice to use the 928 part number wavy metal bushing instead.

However...

In all cases the plastic bushing is toast when this is normally done. Some people have said it doesn't matter that plastic bits are floating around the steering shaft...others have said that it *can* cause a bind-up of the steering.

So...I'd like to do a pre-emptive strike on this and replace the plastic bushing *before* it goes bad. Anyone done this ?...or know whether it can be done ahead of time??

--Wil Ferch

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Wil Ferch

So...I'd like to do a pre-emptive strike on this and replace the plastic bushing *before* it goes bad. Anyone done this ?...or know whether it can be done ahead of time??

--Wil Ferch

I remember a thread where the guy was able to remove some broken parts with some kind of tweezers.. never read anything on preventive maintaince.. mine was already done.. never even saw a plastic one.. I'd cast an eyeball, I went after it/ maybe need a $500 P special tool.........Ron

[Sean Hamilton]

Originally posted by Wil Ferch
Question:
........replace the plastic bushing *before* it goes bad.
........can it be done ahead of time??

The plastic bushing is integral with the OEM upper shaft bearing.
It doesn't break up. It just wears - the inner circumference that grips tight onto the shaft (like a collar grip) and also what is captive inside the bearing wears out over time, becomes sloppy, hence the lateral movement.
There isn't any "preventative" maintenance that I can think of other than to replace the bearing, but there's no way I'd go to that trouble unless it was actually worn out - too costly, and then I'd first try the metal bushing option before looking at replacing the bearing. You never know - it just may work for you (it didn't for me, in fact I feel much more comfortable with the OEM plastic to metal contact on the shaft than metal to metal) but if your going to replace the upper shaft bearing I'd recommend replacing the lower bearing as well.

It's the insertion of metal bushing that destroys and breaks up the plastic shaft grip as it punches through and is knocked down in-between the shaft and what's left of the bearing inner circumference gap. The broken up plastic remains captive inside the bearing.

[expat]

Actually when I went thru the sloppy steering shaft episode, I found that the plastic sleeve had crumbled and was in bits inside the shaft housing. I pulled it all out with a piece of wire before sliding in a new bearing, leaving the old one in there.

I guess you could forceably break off the plastic as a means to preventitive maint. but I wouldn't bother. The plastic that I had just crumbles in your fingers so i would imagine it would not bind up the steering. My recall is there is a white grease in there and that seem to trap the plastic bits that were broken off.

As a side note, when I installed the new bearing it did go all the way in. It sits about 1.5mm out from the end of the shaft but doesn't interfere with anything. As hard as I tried. I could not press it further in.

Just info to add to the data base.

Cheers
Mark

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Sean Hamilton
I'd recommend replacing the lower bearing as well.

It's the insertion of metal bushing that destroys and breaks up the plastic .

Hey Sean.. great explaination.. I never knew all that..

.. and how do you replace the lower one.. and is a there metal replacement for the lower

I bet Wayne could have used your thread in his 101 bible.....Ron

[Sean Hamilton]

Hey Mark, how're ya mate? I see you made it back - thought you may have had second thoughts after coming home to the wide sunburt open spaces and endless road journeys? Happy New Year!

Well there ya go....... I'll stand corrected on the plastic becoming brittle and disintegrating "on it's own" then.
I thought the white lithium grease in there would keep it supple and therefore could only wear.

I forgot about the "sandwich bearing" option - so you went that way with it. If that worked for you, then yeah, I'd reckon that'd be the preferable 2nd option than pulling the old PITA one.

G'day Ron, the lower bearing is a piece of cake - just a bit award getting at it via the trunk and having to undo the two middle shaft universal spline joints.
It's held captive onto the upper shaft with two circlips - remove the lower circlip with expandable circlip nose pliers and it'll simply slide down off the upper shaft by hand.
On Wayne's 101 wrench difficulty scale I'd say it's a "One" (two at best)

[DJB]

On the issue of extra Knee room, I use a steering wheel with a FLAT bottom - lots of extra knee room.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Sean Hamilton
- just a bit award getting at it via the trunk and having to undo the two middle shaft universal spline joints.
It's held captive onto the upper shaft with two circlips - remove the lower circlip with expandable circlip nose pliers and it'll simply slide down off the upper shaft by hand.
On Wayne's 101 wrench difficulty scale I'd say it's a "One" (two at best)

Great info.. so I figure that I could tell if the lower sleve is beat by checking play in lower end of the main shaft..what about a replacement?? metal? same design as the upper sleve? I used wheel bearing grease on the top metal one........Ron

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by RoninLB
[B same design as the upper sleve? I used wheel bearing grease on the top metal one........Ron [/B]

duh.. just reread Sean's thread.. different design.. what's a good replacement for the lower sleve??............Ron