Installing 2-post asymetric lift tomorrow-- tips on placement?
 

So like the title says, the lift goes in tomorrow!

Asymetric arms, and I'm surprised how far these suckers extend. The lift has a 3200kg capacity which dwarfs the 1220kg my SC weighs. Looks like I will be able to place the 911 as far forward or back on this lift as I like... can anyone share experiences here? I'd hate to have to back into the garage every time the 911 needs to go in the air due to the asymetric arms.

I'm trying to decide how far in to place the posts. I'm thinking that if the posts are about in line with my mirrors when I'm parked where I like, that should work.

Tips appriciated! SmileWavy

First-you won't believe how much better your life will be after the lift is up and working. If you have the ability to do so-stand the two columns up on the sides of your space and rotate the arms into full lock. measure the difference between the 2 lift points. I would split the difference and line that up with the centerline between the lift points on the car. But remember-you may want to lift a pickup or some other longer vehicle. Make the side to side distance between the columns the maximum allowable by the install instructions.
Finally, use quality anchor bolts and retorque them every so often.
Enjoy your lift.

Install it so that the short arms are closest to the heavy, engine, end when you drive onto it.
See post 4
http://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/618689-car-on-2-post-lift-backwards-more-stability.html

I have a bendpak 12000 asym in my home garage. #1 - make sure you maximize your lift height. #2 - make sure you can park all of your cars you might ever want to put on the lift both forwards and backwards, with room to walk between the car and the garage door and that the door closes and opens without fouling a car on the lift.

This is a big decision and one you want to make sure you get right - especially if you have a smaller garage.

I spent a little bit of time and laid out a plan view of:
- The lift (typically available from the lift manufacturer)
- Critical features of the car / chassis.

I found the main critical features on the chassis where:
- Location of the lifting points relative to the outer extremities of the car body.
- Location of the wheels / tires - in this regard the height of my lift arms were ~80mm off the floor. Therefore I measured the position of the tires (relative to the rest of the car) at a height of ~100mm from the floor to make sure the lift arms didn't hit the tires when swinging them into position.

I use my lift for an 82 - 911 Chassis (lift points shown as yellow circles) and an 04 - 996 chassis (lift points shown as yellow hexagons). My lift is an Atlas BP8000.

Here is the layout that I put together. I used CAD - if you don't have a CAD program (not everyone does) you could easy use pencil / paper and a ruler. Or if you have a link to the manufacturer / model of the lift and they have dimensions online - I would be happy to do a quick layout for you :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1487429778.JPG

Lucky bastard!! I don't have the ceiling height for a two post had to settle for a mid rise scissor. Make sure your concrete is good!! And be safe.

Wow! Thanks for the awesome responses everyone, CAD drawings even!

My ceiling height isn't great but ok at 2700mm. As for concrete just the extra deep pad under the center of the car/lift is 10 tons and 25cm thick. 30 tons worth in my garage bay alone. It should do. :D

As the lift is asymmetric both arms can swing the same direction which is a big help with short cars like the 911 or the wife's mini.

In the end it looks like I can place the lift such that it should be easy to work with regardless of how I need to place the 911 or the other family cars on it-- with the 911 I'll have more then a meter in clearance from each bumper.