Throttle Linkage will not go wide open
 

All

In an effort to get the carbs to go full open I have installed new bushings on the Pedal assembly, new bushings on the transmission linkage attachment and new bushings at the carb base. I also installed the new throttle link from Pelican. This is the round assembly just in front of the transmission. I still cannot get the carbs to go wide open. I should also add that I have tried to adjust all of the ball sockets to take out all of the slack in the assembly. There is almost 1 inch of travel on the pedal before the carbs are actuated. The only thing left is the connection from the transmission to the carb. I have included a picture.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...age-Needed.jpg






On the end by the carbs someone has welded on an extension and I cannot get any more adjustment. If this sleeve that is welded on were able to turn, it would give me the inch of slack that is left in the linkage. So this brings me to my question:


1.) Should this assembly have an extension welded on or should it be able to turn?

2.) Any idea where I can get one of these linkage rods? I think if I could adjust this part I could resolve the problem. I am tempted to hacksaw it down and braise on a new piece.


Thanks

For a 1969 the part number is 901.423.026.03 - called an accelerator pull rod. Got this from a Stoddard catalog.

I had the same problem on my 69 . The socket at the engine end seemed to have a bit extra brazed into it. It gave me about 1/2 inch of slack. All I did was bend a little extra "kink" in the middle where it bends around the transaxle. Be careful so you don't actually kink the section. I don't know if you can take out an inch but it worked for me. Make sure you still have clearances to the body through all the range of linkage travel. I figured I'm working on a 69, I wasn't interested in a blueprint original.

Joe, Thanks for the part number.

Steve, I am going to try to "adjust" the linkage first, either by bending or cutting out the part that was welded on. If that doesn't work I can buy a new one as a last resort.

Thanks for the tips.

Check under the go fast pedal too.....when I added my 3.6 to the SC, I was able to get another 3/4 inch of throttle travel by removing the block under the pedal. I felt kind of stupid, but it worked...:eek:

I managed to get a used linkage rod from Parts Heaven. The one from them does not have the end welded up like mine. This has solved the problem of no WOT. I will post pictures of the differences between the rods tomorrow. Now I just need a nice day to see how the cars runs since before it never went much past 50-60% open.

Faster?

I did the exact same thing. It had kind of an "Oklahoma Institute of Teknolugy" feel to it, but it works.

?
 

so did you get to drive it yet?...if so what was the difference like?

OK as promised here is the picture of the differences in the throttle rods. Obviously the longer one is what caused my problem. The smaller one came from PartsHeaven and is just what the doctor ordered. Now I have WOT, a functional hand throttle and free HP. So my word to the wise is always check for WOT before modifying the car. You may find free HP.

I have not driven it yet (I live in Chicago, to much salt) but hope to this weekend.




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...le-compare.JPG

I'm thinking of doing this too ..I find the bead on the carpet there seems to interfere with matters as well ....does your pedal go to the floor now with no side effects?......

Yes it goes to the floor. It took some adjusting to get everything correct, but now it works as smooth as silk. When I first installed the new linkage there was some hanging up in the tunnel, but after playing with the adjustments at the pedal and transmission mount I got it all cleared up. This was done in conjunction with all new bushings at the engine, trans and pedals. It made a huge difference.