1971 911T Targa Driveway Find in Maryland

[bavaria911]

Gents,
As I mentioned in previous posts, I was helping an old friend try to start his 1971 Targa 911T after 7+ years. After he reviewed all possibilities, he decided to sell the car. He knows I had a 1970 911T and enjoyed helping him for the past three months with his car. He decided to sell the 911, so he offered me first shot to buy the car. I thought hard and asked the better half if she was good with another early 911 in the garage – and decided to buy her. Now I must come up with a plan to review the items required to be fixed and fluids changed before attempting to start the motor.
Below are a few photos. The car is all stock except the radio (did not come with one), original paint (sun faded and damaged only across the top surfaces), the targa top must be repaired (just the material, the frame and locking hooks are perfect). It is a non-Fuchs car with a spare having the original tire and spare wheel in factory new appearance. The car is numbers matching with 54,000 miles (the PO kept gas receipts with mileage written and the repair/maintenance bills listing miles). As you can see, the paint needs cleaning and treatment. There is nearly no rust, please review the photos.
Questions:
1. What is the best soap and water to clean the 7+ years of grime and dirt off the paint?
2. What is the best cleaning solvent and oil to help the rubber seals around the door, trunk, boot, and targa top / windows? You would think they would be dry rotten, buy are very soft and movable – there was no water leakage from rain in all the years.
3. The original wheels have surface rust, but the chrome hubcaps are in VG condition. Is it okay to repaint the wheels or do I keep original paint on them. Does this de-value the car?
4. Can someone send me the link to properly starting a car after 7+ years outside in the Maryland weather?

Vr,
Scott

[bavaria911]

More Photos:

[bavaria911]

And More:

[bavaria911]

last set:
Notice the rust spot on the drivers side rear window. That is the only concern I have. How would I best treat the spot?

[super9064]

Congrats Scott !! I just got your PM, I've been on the Baja California the last few days with no Internet access. I'll free up some time this weekend, and take a look.

[bavaria911]

I was able to pull off the wheels and get the car up on jack stands. I plan to drain the gas tank and the motor /trans oil over the weekend.
The tires will be removed from the steel wheels and the wheels sent to the media blaster. I need to ask how to get a paint code for VW artic silver, was told this is the closest to the original wheel color. Below are some updated photos, notice the spare wheel with original tire - never mounted as a spare! And the tool bag is nearly new looking, the tool were barely used in 43 years.

[Matthew Barnes]

Lovely buy.
Looks honest and original.
Inside of the hood suggests little condensation in the the trunk. Good sign.
Is that just surface rust on the fuel tank carrier?

Bottom of the doors look very good.

If I was you I would get into as many areas as you can (trans tunnel, doors, outer sills etc) with a piece of garden hose attached to a vacuum cleaner, and treat with a cavity wax / rust preventer spray.

For Rubber treatment I have used Autoglym. Clean them and then treat them. Where you can, take the rubber off the car and clean it up.

[Matthew Barnes]

With that rust spot on the rear quarter I would have a look up inside the wheel well to see if there is rust coming through. The steel between the trim and the steel of the rear window frame (where a 1/4 window would be on a coupe) is a weak spot with regards rust.

If there is rust coming through then you may need to think about taking the window and trim out to treat it properly. But only if absolutely necessary as that would mean messing with the original paint. Patina is priceless, so tread carefully. I'd prefer to have an original paint car with a few treated rust spots (the scars of a life well lived) than a freshly painted car with nicely aged trim and interior.

Also worth looking up behind the engine lid hinges. Usually an indicator of the general condition of the window frame etc. See what condition the underseal is in while you're in there.

One of my favourite cars is a 66 or 67S that was discovered in a barn by a collector and concourse restorer. Paint aged with a surface rust but a perfect interior. He stopped the rust, but left it, cleaned the interior and overhauled the mechanicals. So it runs like new but doesn't hide from the life it has lived. The only downside if that people keep leaving notes on his car thinking it is an old unloved car that might be for sale!

[BK911]

Oh wow, awesome find!
Love me some 2.2 Targa!!

I would:
Remove engine, suspension, brakes and fuel system.
Clean up the chassis as much as you need/want to.
Engine leakdown
Suspension overhaul
Brake overhaul
Fuel system overhaul
Engine tune up; cam timing, valve adjust, wires/plugs/points/cap/rotor, replace all seals. Look for mice nest under shroud.
Carb tune up; at a minimum pull jets and clean out. Including the accelerator nozzles. Ultrasonic cleaner is awesome!!
Reinstall engine
Vroom vroom!!

Yes I am bit of an extremist. But that is what I would do.

[CCM911]

For the paint, just wash as you would with a normal car wash soap, and then follow up with a decent paint cleaner. Nothing fancy, Meguiars or Mothers would be fine. Once you are done cleaning the pain, you'll be ready to make an educated decision as to the next step. Most likely, I would follow up with a polish, then a glaze, and then a wax. That car does not look bad at all!.

Nice find.

[Charles Freeborn]

Lovely car!
The very first thing I suggest you do is establish a budget. There are a few to several ways you could go about that project. From a good wash, tune and use as a driver, to full concours restoration.
Be patient - especially about starting it, as you can do more damage in 30 seconds by starting a car that has sat than you care to experience. Drain every fluid, including the carb bowls, flush the fuel system, all lines etc, drain and flush all the brakes, trans, oil coolers if it has it, turn the engine by hand with plugs out after spray lube in the cylinders, listen carefully, as you turn, and then and only then fire it up.
The rust bubble on the rear quarter is going to be rust from inside the wheel well, and will require the rear glass to come out to repair properly. There will be more rust.....
Have fun with it and keep us posted. Fun project - great car!
-C

[911Freak]

Sub'd

[fintstone]

That is one nice find. Even a great color. Let me know if you decide you need someone to haul it away. I live fairly close by. Been hankering for one just like that.

Congrats!

[strath44]

nice, very good move buying this, there are fewer finds of long hoods these days, you pretty much cant go wrong imo! enjoy keep the pics coming.

very nice colour also!

[Jose_JGC]

That's a great original car. Even the original hood crest and tool set are there looking like new...
The only thing I see that is not exactly as original are the front Boge struts and rear Koni struts, I believe that these cars came with one brand struts, but I could be wrong.
I would do as BK911 said, but you will provably find more rust so it will need more metal body work.
My 1070 911T also had the Marelly distributor and I could not get a new cap, searched for it during about 2 years and ended buying a used original Bosh distributor about 4 years ago.
Yours has front S type calipers!

[Autoban]

Scott, congratulations again. The car looks exactly as you described it on the phone (BTW I'm in Hong Kong coming back Tuesday in case you want to call me). I would at first get the car as clean as you can and then get it running. The fuel system needs to be cleaned out of course and you need to check if you can get a spark. I would also get the brakes working first.
You told me you can turn the engine by hand, so that is a good start. Have you thought further about taking the plugs out and inject some (Marvelous Mystery) oil in the cylinders. The car will smoke for a while after you get it started, but it shouldn't hurt( what do other Pelicans think about this idea?). After you get it running and maybe drive it a couple of miles you will know if there are other issues.
Judging by the pictures I think some of the rubber seals need to be replaced. To treat the rust by the rear window I would take the window out to see how far it goes under the window seal.

Juergen

[chrisg252]

Congratulations on a great find.
If the rubber seals really are in as good a condition as you noted ( the door seal adjacent to the color code ( Kunshartzlack) plate looks very tired), they can be revived by gently rubbing glycerine onto the seal-it's available from most pharmacies. Beware hosing the car down with water at anything above a gentle sprinkle in terms of pressure- it's too easy to force water into places you really don't want it to go.
Taking the rear window out of a Targa is not a job for the faint of heart either. It's a very expensive piece of glass. That rust bubble is just the tip of an iceberg though.

[sugarwood]

Does anyone use Gummi Pflege Stift on their weatherstripping?
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

[bavaria911]

Sugarwood - Gummi Pflege for all the rubber seals is exactly what I will have my wife bring back from Germany when she returns in three weeks. Until then, I'm living in the garage every night working to get the Targa ready to start. Pizza and beer is popular.

Juergen,
If you are free next Sat, I'worked this weekend to get her ready to start. Call me if you want to swing by. Today I treated the rust in the battery boxes and the area in front of the spare tire due to the old batteries. I first spoke to Rob ( a Porsche friend) and we decided to use baking soda and water to kill the acid in the rust. Then I bought Kurd Kutter Rust inhibitor to kill and stop the rust. I will later use POR15. Next I changed the oil and filter. I noticed the gas tank was sent to ReNeu, it even has a metal tag with a serial number for the repair ( I found the repair bill and sticker from the ReNeu company dated 1999). I removed the gas sending unit and sucked out the 3 gallons of old gas. The inside looked great, no issues. I poured some Marvel Mystery oil into the oil and gas tanks. I added 4 gallons of gas. I already poured Marvel Mystery Oil into the Weber Carbs and into each cylinder - I did that three weeks ago with the previous owner before buying the car, I need to remove the brake calipers and send them off for rebuilding.

Jose - I have a repair bill dated in 1987 that states they replaced the shocks and struts. It's not clear if it was strut inserts or the housing. What is a stock strut for a 1971 911T ?

Chris - The door seals are shot, but want to keep the car original. What can I do to glue the seals closed where cracked (what type of glue ?) than I will use the Gummi Pflege over all the rubber.
Vr,
Scott

[bavaria911]

I just did a search for BOGE struts 901 341 080 01, the picture is above and they appear original for 1971 911T's. The Konis are in question. What is the correct rear shock for a 1971?