Can anyone clarify what type of rear swaybar I need? 77 911
 

Hi, my car has no rear swaybar at all. The brackets have been ripped off the chassis somehow, and I found this webpage:

Dieter's Repair Service : 911 Rear Sway Bar Swap

Since mine is a 77, I apparently need the type 1 rear swaybar... where do I find one of these, and what else do I need? In the classifieds I'm only finding 78+ swaybars. It seems like everything aftermarket is also for 78+.

Help?

Source a 77 sway bar from DC automotive or LA dismantlers. When you say it's ripped off, are the mounting points still there and the ball tabs still on the banana arms? Pick up the 4 new bushings you need from PP. Buy proper new hardware, the PET has the dimensions and shows any washers you may need. The sway bar can be pressed on with some home made ingenuity (soapy water, sledge hammer and a piece of wood, vise)

74 rear bar install & later upgraded
 

Hi Cash,

When I inherited my dad's 74, it had no rear bar mount on one side and an amputated mount on the left side.
The first order of business is to take some wrenches and slide under the front of your car to gauge the diameter of your front bar, most cars had one, (iirc, 15,18, or 20 mm). My dad had ordered the Carrera bar option, so it had a 20mm bar on the front. The correct bar for the rear would be 18mm. you need to keep the bars balanced.
If you are using the car for a driver or occasionally auto x the car, stock bars should be just fine. If you are going to get a bit more serious about tracking the car or real racing, you are going to need some bigger, quality bars, like Tarret or Elephant offer.

So, assuming you are starting with the 20 mm front bar, you need an 18 mm bar, new chassis mounts, like the WEVO offered units, stock straps, bushings and drop links.

You can go all stock 77, or upgrade the bar style, mounting bushings and drop links. This is what I chose to do, that is, to use poly urethane bar mount bushings and an 1985 18 mm bar with adjustable drop links so that I could dial out any preload when corner weighting. Additionally, the later style bar has enough room on the arm to drill an additional hole or two for link attachment. This would give you some relatively low cost bar adjustability, (I haven't done this yet but am planning on doing so).

One final thing, Take a good look at the fuel line under the car where it is attached to the chassis and goes around the hot air dump on the heat exchangers. I suspect that this line has endured 40 + years of hot air blast, (see picture, it was leaking on my drive home).
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489774037.JPG

Check out the link below, we have several sway that will work for you. If you have any other questions, feel free to give us a call at 888-280-7799 and one of our Porsche parts specialists will be happy to help you out.

1977 Porsche 911 S Coupe - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 9


-Dmitry

Next size smaller than the front bar. Usually 2mm smaller.