Ultimate RUF Conversion Thread
 

OK guys,

Since I have been unable to find acceptable (quality and price) steel early fenders in the Midwest for my backdate project, I am now thinking that a Ruf CTR front bumper cap and a rear IROC (or the CTR) cover will fill my need to change the look of my car. I think this option will be w/in the budget I envision for the project (bumper parts and paint for the whole car).

I ran a search on the topic and saw some good threads, but now I want an ultimate Pelican thread on the topic.

Bill V does a good job of explaining the installation process, but I need more (call me dense). Bill tells of swapping his front bumper shocks with the rear ones during his conversion, but he has an Euro car. I'd like feedback from others on their installation.

KurtB, your thread was nice, but it appeared to me you skipped the front cap installation (or did I read it too late at night? So more please.

There were some great pictures on the threads I found. But how about some more...more angles, more close up shots of the detailed features (i.e. bumper mounts, modification for fitment, light mounting, signal mounting, etc,...)

I believe all the parts from the various venders were made from molds of the original RUF part, but sometimes I think there is a slight difference. Maybe it is the angle of the pictures. Can we verify?

Also, (most important) I have a 76 911S body so the flares are not the common SC flares that thes parts are made for. I like the SC flares, but I like the flares on my car too. So it comes down to dollars. I can hold off on the SC flares and until I can free up more cash, then I'll add SC flares. Who has done this on a 74-77 car? So me please.

If you're too busy to format your pictures to post, send them to me and I'll format them and post. (soukus@comcast.net).

I'll start the parade of pictures. This one is one that Mikel posted (thanks) and it is the one the really got me off track from my backdate project.

Below are some threads that I found. Thanks to all the went before me.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53753&perpage=20&highli ght=ruf%20bumper&pagenumber=1

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=70914&highlight=ruf+bum per

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68649&highlight=ruf+bum per

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6784&highlight=ruf+bump er


Let make this a good thread.SmileWavy

Thanks in advance,

Just a bit of History (although I'm only looking for cosmetic conversion)
 

Ruf 911 CTR - The 211mph modification

Porsche 911 was one of the favourites to car-tuners. Among all tuners, Ruf could be described as the "specialist among specialists". Alois Ruf created the "Yellow Bird", Ruf 911 CTR, which stunned the world in the supercar contest held by Road & Track in 1987.

R&T gathered 8 of the fastest production cars then - Ferrari 288GTO, Testarossa, Lamborghini Countach QV, Isdera Imperator 108i, AMG 560E, Porsche 959 Sport and 959 Comfort; and three highly-tuned Porsche 911 turbos from Ruf, RS Tuning and Koenig. They were tested in the Volkswagen Ehra-Lessien high-speed test track. At the end of the day, the Ruf 911 CTR beat all other supercars in top speed by recorded an astonishing 210.7 mph two-way average. It became the fastest road car in the world !

Suprisingly, Ruf based his car on the narrow-track 911 Carrera body, its lower drag might be the key factor to its record-breaking top speed. The engine came from the 911 turbo, with slightly larger capacity, twin-turbo instead of single, higher boost and bigger intercooler, power rose from 300 hp to 469 hp, even more than the 959. The engine drove a Ruf-made 5-speed transmission (in then the 911 turbo had only 4 speeds) and then 4 sets of 17in wheels wearing Dunlop D40 tyres originally developed for the 959. Brakes also came from Ruf itself.

I cannot quite understand why the Yellow Bird could be that fast. Compare it with 959 and you will understand my mistery - Yellow Bird was obviously less aerodynamic-efficient than the 959's 0.32 Cd, while its power advantage was only 19 hp, I can hardly see why it could be 13.7 mph faster. Because of taller gearing ? Unlikely, because the 959 had the additional 6th ratio. No one knows what magic Alois Ruf did in his car.

Model Ruf 911 CTR (Yellow Bird)
Years of production started 1987
Layout Rear-engine, Rwd.
Engine Flat-6, sohc, 2v/cyl, twin-turbo.
Capacity 3.4 litres
Power 469 hp
Torque 457 lbft
Gearbox 5M
Weight N/A
Top speed 210.7 mph*
0-60 mph 4.0 sec*
0-100 mph 7.3 sec*
1/4 mile 11.7 sec* / 133.5 mph*

I found this tonight..notice the one on the left. The original light recess (hole) has been modified to a curcular shape for what looks like cooling ducts. I have never seen this marketed. I think this is a better fit as it follows the circular theme of the headlights. Before I saw this, I thought I would make a part to fill in that woul replicate this look.

Anyone know anything about it?

I got the pic from this website, but I can't read German...hell, English was tough enough :D

http://www.driveandtravel.de/tuning/ruf.htm

Here is another shot of an authentic CTR front.

Note, when I installed mine, I took the bumper shocks off completely. The front and rears are just bolted to the body panels. They're so light, this is not a problem (unless I hit something), and it saves you 20 lbs...as I think each one is 5 lbs...or it could save you 10 lbs if each pair was 5 lbs, I don't recall.
I could paint them with a spray can these days with the practice I've had. The main concern there is getting the paint gun/can up close to the panel after it's been sanded with 400 and putting the paint on horizontally in long overlapping strokes that start beyond the panels themselves.
If you're painting when they're on the car, you'd put some cloth over the wheel wells and start painting on the cloth and move the stroke slowly around the front bumper for example. This is the thing I didn't do that caused me to have to redo the doors when I painted my car. Not doing this long even stroke method will make the paint look wavy from way back at an angle even though, EVEN THOUGH, you may have sanded all of the orange peel out.
It's amazing to me how many things have to be right for things to get painted right. Looking back at the job they did on my car for 1500 bucks I'm just amazed at how easy they made it seem when in fact, it's just so hard to do right. Sorry about this "painting tangent" once again, but I am still going over places here and there and getting things just right, so it's always on my mind!

Kurt,

Thanks for the paint tip. Until I get everything sorted out on the car, at which point it will get a pro. strip and paint, I will paint the f-glass parts to match my white car. So this is good information.

One thing I am considering is to spray the backside of the f-glass parts with truck bedliner spray to prevent shattering, esp. if it gets hit by a rock from the wheels. There is a Rhino Liner place not so far from my house I might check out for this process. It would be after the final fitting and prior to my painting.

Yes, it will add a little weight, but for all that I'll be losing, that small added weight will be acceptable. I think it will give the backsides a nice finished look when I'm under the car turning wrenches.

Hear is another pic for the thread. We have seen it before, but it is good view of the front.

How about that ctr bumper for a widebody, anybody got a pic of that??

I like this front bumper so much I'll post it again....anyone seen one of these out in Cali or ???

Souk,
i love the way you think!
The CTR look is BY FAR the best IMO.. I have wanted to go that route for a while.. and will this tear make the plunge as well,
I have the rear bumper but i need a front..
Great Idea this thread..
I hope it stays on the CTR yellow bird topic..


Eric,

Quote:" I got the pic from this website, but I can't read German...hell, English was tough enough"

Dear Souk,

I have read the article on Internet you are referring to, it is a general article about RUF, there are no specific comments on the pictures. The only thing I can say about the pictire is that the license plate of the right car is definitely German, and the left one looks French to me, hope it helps.

I started to embark on my YB project but found other problems with my car along the way (rust on the torsion bar tube). I have the front and rear YB bumper caps from MA Shaw and I may be changing my mind about this. I guess it depends where you live, but installing the bumper caps without anything under them is a very big gamble here in Puerto Rico. The probability of coming in contact with another car is very high here and I can garantee these bumber will break under any collision. I would ever have to worry about kids using the front bumper as a park bench. I am sure a 100 pound kid sitting on the YB bumper is heavy enough to rip the bumper cap from the body. Just my honest opinion.

Possibly a slightly different version on the black car (ignoring the add-on splitter)?



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/chris911sra.jpg

Here are a few great shots to help out as wellhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/BTR4.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/rennlist3.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/rennlist4.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/rennlist5.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/si.jpg

This car was done on a SC chassis! It gives me hope. hahaha

another nice rear bumper.. with out vented rear bumper.
I prefer the venter look http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/ctr3.jpg
Eric mckenna
78SC

one more as i never get tired of looking at this car!:D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/87rufctr1.jpg

Did anybody save the pics of the white SC in the very first post? The web site posted is no longer up. I checked yesterday.

I'm about 0.5mm away from pulling the trigger on a sharp white'78SC Euro coupe, and the RUF bumpers look too good. :D

jurgen

Do the NACA ducts on the rear fenders (the pic Eric posted) mean the intercoolers live there? The car has what looks like a Carrera tail, maybe there's not enough room for the intercooler in the tail?

I recall seeing a yellow turbo RUF a few years ago, and the owner showed me the intercoolers in the fenders - but I don't know if it was genuine.

Can anyone confirm that the YB had larger flares/rear_fenders/wings than SCs or Carreras? I still find it hard to believe.

here are a few more shots to help us later..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/rufdet.jpg

Eric Mckenna
78SC

IMB,
Yes a few of the Yellows did have slightly larger rear flares.. but other had stock SC width..
You can see the diff in a few of the pic's posted.. some are wider than others..


Eric Mckenna 78SC
SmileWavy

jyl,I read in one of the threads I founf on my search that Alois Ruf admitted that the NACA duct did not not in the way we might envision it to fuction. It actually pulled air out of the engine bay. I think this might have something to do with the higher pressure inside the engine bay inherent in the design of the 911 shape, butlets not deverge. (there were a flurry of e-mails regarding this topic on Rennlist. If you're interested, go do a search on the archive there).

Jupiter, Thanks. It looked like a blurp on Ruf through some tourism site eventhough my German is only good for ordering Beer...(how do you say Guinness in German? ;)

Chris, That bumper (w/o adjusting the levels to reveal the details) looks like a Fiberwerks front. It is possibly a good "modern" take on the bumper cap that RUF started. Looks good on that black car. It must be local...I'd like to see it one day.

Eric, that yellow one you posted looks like a 72 (with the oil filler on the passenger rear quarter. I saved those pictures too. They may have done the conversion on a 72 with SC flares.

IMONBOOST, I agree that safety is an issue, but I don't drive my car that often and the kids know to stay away from the car when it's in the driveway or garage...oh my do they know. I get your point however; I plan to fabricate an aluminum subframe for concern. We'll see how much my contractors will want for such a job..Pipeline contractors can do some nice welding jobs.

turbo6bar, I saved that picture of the white car which I call the Cargraphic car, as Eric pointed out it is in/on their catalog. Although I sent a catalog request and they replied that it is being updated so no catalogs for a while.

Well! Now back to work for a while.

Eric, that yellow ono you posted looks like a 72 (with the oil filler on the passenger rear quarter. I saved those pictures too. They may have done the conversion on a 72 with SC flares.

Souk,
Nope If you go to the guys website he talks about how he had the SC and had if converted over to YB spec.. and had the oil tank filler..He is selling the car ...but he says he had it done on an SC tub..


Eric
78SC

With all the hype about not having matching f/r tail and spoiler, why would Ruf not have a splitter or something on the front of the YB? Seems that a car that really can go 200+ MPH would need it more than the rest of us that only approach 150+.

Any thoughts? Am I missing something in the pics? :confused:

What? Why did he add the filler on an SC? I'll have to check the site again. I'm such a skeptic. :)

So you like the round intakes on that yellow one I posted? I have been cooking up a plan in my head to make a f-glass insert to mimic the look....a little wax and some carving and voila! (you should have seen the intake manifold with integrated runners we made for the SAE car I worked on in college, c'est un piece de resistance! w/ Pro-E drawing to boot)

hahah YEP .. I agree I was shocked to hear it was an SC as well.. Bt the 1st YB has it as well and it's on a 86 Carrera tub.. they put them on.. which is cool.
I DO like the round ducts.. I would do as you mentioned and leave the square housing and simply insert a duct fitting.. .. I'll have to see .but I am thinking I will leave mine square..
Eric Mckenna
78SC

Souk,
After looking at the pic's again.. I am going to stay with the square light holes... I will place some nice bright driving lights in there and slap my yellow H1 french lens back on.. I love theose things.. they look geat on my car was well.


Eric

78SC, 2325 lbs. Glass front bumper cap from MA Shaw installed w/o bumper shocks or nerf bars. Rear is a GT Racing IROC bumper, again w/o bumper shocks. The driving lights were used as brake ducts/fender oil cooler air inlet. The front now has a 25x6x2 oil cooler plumbed in series wit hthe fender unit. And yes, the YB had about 1/4" wider flares than the SC type.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa... painted A.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/front yb 34.jpg

another pic

Here is the original, from Ruf's web page.

You can see the oil filler door pretty clearly.
http://www.ruf-automobile.de/english...tr/911_CTR.jpg

Don't forget, you will also need to shave the rain gutters.

Ruf has some info, as well as an article from "911 and Porsche World" here:
http://www.ruf-automobile.de/english/meilensteine/ctr/ctr.htm

Tom

what about a splitter and brake ducts aka the 964

I've seen several CTRs with a small rubber front spoiler hiding under the front bumper.

If you follow one of the links to an earlier thread, you'll see that there is Ruf part that is added to the underside of the cap. Bill V has an authentic Ruf rubber "lip" on his car. In one of the pictures I posted, you can clearly see the rubber lip.

Anyone know why Ruf put the oil filler on the right rear quarter?

I'm not planning on going far beyond the front and rear bumpers with the conversion yet, but the rain gutter note above is good for the thread.

The second post (history) was pasted from a site that had the specs for the YB, but you'll see the guy mentions his puzzlement over the top speed advantage of the YB over the 959. Removal of the rain gutters and the small mirrors (did they run with them?) gave the YB it's top speed advantage for the test. I remember reading the article back them and was amazed that such a small change could reduce the car's drag so much...then I went to engineering school and learned about frontal area and aerodynamic drag.

Oh, yeah, I guess I see it. It doesn't seem very aggressive, does it? It must do the job, though.

Yet more proof that size doesn't matter.

:D

Possibly the same reason Porsche did in 72, polar moment of inertia. Or, it could be they had to move the oil tank to make room for the intercooler on that side.

Tom

IMONBOOST, regarding your earlier post, there was a great write-up on the RUF Btr some years ago in Sports Car International, and yes, the SC/Carrera flares were slightly reshaped in the rear to allow for the 10" wide Ruf alloys. Seems the narrow-bodied cars punch a much cleaner hole in the air than the turbo bodies at 150mph and above, the cars were so "trick" having shaved rain gutters, usually only one Ruf mirror. on drivers side, as well as the beautiful nose piece, all these little details (not to mention HP from God) these land rockets could do 200MPH ! Cars like this give us all something to live for!! Doug Kubany

Just to reiterate from previous threads. I used and am very happy with the caps from BW Motorsports(618-622-0524 no web page that I know of), they are located in O'Fallon, Ill and are great folks to deal w/. Brad Stubbs the proprietor is extremely helpful.

Front
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357166351.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357166476.jpg
The rubber lip attached below the f/g bumper cap is a Ruf part which is nla, but could be easily replicated. This lip is included as part of the molding of the p/u spoiler which looks the same but bolts under the stock al. bumper. I like the idea of p/u but hated the stock bellows so f/g cap it is.

Rear
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1357166434.jpg

Neither bumper uses the stock bumper mounts, the rear does use the stock struts behind the rear wheels. The bumpers are fastened w/ small bolt, nut, washers drilled verticaly through the fender and f/g flanges and a few blind nuts into the front bulkhead. The welting used between the f/g and the fenders is a 930 part, 999 911 205 40, 76-80930 bumper welting, which comes in 5m long rolls, 1 roll for both bumpers. The grills are stock SC engine grills cut and bolted to the f/g. The bumpers have proved to be are quite sturdy and have survived a couple of off road excursions.

Beneath the caps but in no way connected to them are f/r nerf bars. I had intended to make them from al. (still have the raw material) but used steel because of time constraints( I can cut and weld steel w/a mig but need to learn more about al. The euro cars used non-hydraulic bumper struts which are used to connect the nerf bars to the chassis. The rear struts were moved to the front and the fronts were shortened a few inches and moved to the rear(the eurorstruts are available reasonably aftermarket but not necessary. They do make life easy though). It was suggested but never investigated that 964 al. inner bumper bars would also work in that capacity. The front nerf bar does double duty as a perfect place to mount the front oil cooler.

BW's pieces included all of the pieces necessary to bolt the stock turn signal boxes into the provided openings. To those unfamiliar w/ them the wiring is a bit convoluted so take good notes and mark wire securely before /during disassembly. I invented a special tool to reach the nuts from below the car. For those interested I willl try to remember to take and post a pic.

Was it worth it? an unqualified YES!! The appearance alone is worth it, I knew from the day I bought it that the oem bumpers had to go. If appearance isn't important to you then the weight savings and the favorable effect on chassis dynamics are.

Some additional comments

• the NACA ducts were a failure according to Alois himself
• the rear fenders were widened ~1" by welding sheetmetal into a stock SC/Carrera flare
• the extra 1" was to get the 10" Speedline rear wheels to fit, this can also be accomplished by choosing different wheels w/ appropriate o/s
• the front tires were relatively narrow by modern standards again because of the o/s on the Speedlines
• the oil tank was moved to get better weight dist and to provide room for the turbos and exhaust plumbing(more for the latter than the former) you could also use a '72 setup, or a 964/993 setup or a front trunk mounted oil tank to accomplish the same

Souk, if it was my car I would do the flares and bumper at one time to reduce wasted labor. These days the flares(even steel which I recommend) are glued on rather than welded, this reduces the cost of labor a lot. The steel flares are only ~$300 last I checked. If you need to cut costs leave the sills alone. Also keep in mind that the cap reduces flow of air thru the front fender mounted cooler, plan on ducting from the driving light hole to compensate.

Bill, I was going to start shouting if you didn't post soon. I know this is redundant for you, but it is great information. Thanks for taking the time.

As for the flares, I'm still debating. And I definitely agree with the time/labor saving aspect. I'll have to go over to one of the scrap yards that have 911's and see if I can score a set of SC flares. I have 205/50's on the rear right now, so unless I go racing, I think they will provide enough grip for me. But you never know.

I also think (maybe it's an excuse for being cheap) that keeping the narrow body is in keeping with the spirit of the YB. Tight and narrow is good for top speed (man what an excuse for being cheap), and it might give it a nice smooth flow.

If anyone wants to donate or give me a great deal on SC flares, I'll be so greatful (Someday you can come ask me to do YOU a favor, Godfather.).

Souk.

I have a set of Carrera flares that I would let go for $100 plus shipping.

Another view of the flares

I have always loved the 9" rear SC/ Carrera flares and clean bumpers. I replaced the 1/4 panels on my '72 as soon as they became available and the bumpers on the '76 were changed as soon as was practical.

I also love the 9" and 11" 930 flares but have reservations when used on a street car(probably just rationalizing here but w/ a bit of truth)

If you need some specific shots or info let me know, always happy to help.