Can you guys get me through this project?
 

Okay, I have a 912E with stock suspension. In the garage I have an entirely new suspension in boxes. I know zilch about the installation process aside from what I can glean from this board-which is often quite a lot. That said, I'm a law student and not a mechanic.

When the 912E gets parked in about a month, I have two options. (1) let it sit until the spring when I amass the funds to have the suspension installed professionally, or (2) rip it apart myself with no idea what I am doing and rely on this BBS to guide me through it.

This will involve replacing the torsion bars, shocks, installing sway bars (I think some cutting is involved in the installation of the front) and turbo tie rods.

I did read the excellent thread on the spring plates refurbish a few months back. The line about "scalping someone" made me laugh for a long time.

Whaddya think? Can we do this? I've seen amateurs guided through 911 engine rebuilds, so I am confident.

Here's what I've got in parts accumulated:

New Bilstein sports, front and rear
New 22mm sway bars
New front, used rear torsion bars (21/26mm)
New adjustable spring plates
New turbo tie rods
mounting hardware and drop links.

I want to lower the car also. Presently it sits at US ride height for a 912E. This is like a new Ford Expedition! I want to go to an agressive ride height that can be driven on the street. I am a functionalist over aesthetics so I'll take the collective advice on the best ride height independent of appearance.

What are the odds of screwing up so badly that I can't get it out of the garage after beginning? What's first? Who's in on this?

Thanks in advance,

David

I may not be of any help, but the rest of the board should be able to help you. I would suggest getting the Bently manual, and using this board. The money you save doing it yourself will let you spend it on another area on your car.


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Matt Chamblin
78 911 SC

...be sure to factor in the time constraints. You have exams looming right after Thanksgiving, the bar review, etc! Just trying to be voice of reason.

School comes first. I won't let the Porsche get in the way. But, I do have about a solid month between semesters!

Come on guys, give me inspiration!

David

I don't think that cutting and welding is necessary unless someone says you need to improve the sway bar mounts. That's possible. Also, if your shock mounts are not for Bilsteins, then there is a conversion necessary, but that should not be too tough.

In a project like this, you will run into snags, like stubborn torsion bars and bushings that don't seem to fit. But if you have months of off-and-on time for it, you WILL be successful. No one will need to tow your Baby.

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'83 SC

Well, Dave, with a little planning and all of the logistics (acquiring the proper tools) taken care of beforehand, it could be done in a single weekend! As far as references go, there was an article in Excellence a while back on installing the 'through-the-body' style anti-roll bar in a 914, and for all intents and purposes, the procedure is the same for a 911 or 912. The rest of the project can be handled with help from a Haynes manual.

You did not mention what brand your front struts are ... that makes a difference as to what tool is needed to remove the strut cap. The thin wrench for installing the Turbo tierods to your steering rack can be made from a conventional bargain bin wrench and a little work with die grinder or 4" disk grinder.

That should give you a start ...

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

I did the same install (minus the sway bars) about 3 weeks ago. It is not that difficult (although very frustrating at times.) The only thing that you might wait on is the sway bars unless you can weld or know someone who can. I plan on install TRG adjustable sway bars in the very near future.

Buy Wayne's book also...a lot of 911 material tranlates to 912....although I am not sure about all the suspension parts.

Okay, a little more info:

1.) My car has Boge front strut housings. I have the Sport inserts.

2.) The front sway bar, I have been informed, WILL involve some cutting. Warren, I recall this Excellence article. I believe I have the copy at home. Thanks! I'll review.

3.)The mounting tabs are intact on the rear. However, I have heard these are not too strong. Should I have something more substantial welded in place before I begin?

Thanks all! I've been anxious to begin this project.

David

It is my understanding that reinforced sway bar mounts are a good idea anyway, and basically a MUST if stiffer sway bars are installed. But your car does not need a sway bar to drive down the road, so yes, this is a project you can do.

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'83 SC

Dave, I did all this to my car last winter. The front torsion bars, sway bar installation, and ride height are easy. The rear spring plates, torsion bar installation, and ride height are more difficult but still not too hard for a newcomer. We will be doing this over the winter on my brothers car. If you want to stop by to see or have any question, let me know. The 22m sway bars are kind of stiff for your year car and weight. Are you planning to autocross?

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.

Go for it Dave!

With time, patience, and the help of this board you can do this.

Add to your list new bushings, front and rear (unless your new spring plates have them).

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies.

Clark, the spring plates came with bushings. I haven't really inspected them. I've seen the Neatrix discussion. Is this a definate choice?

89/Michael, thanks for the offer. What kind of car did your brother buy? Last I heard you were looking for an NSX. I saw him at North Park a few weeks back with the red 911. Yes, I do plan to autocross the 912E.
I'd love to pick your brain about the process. I'll email you off the board.

David