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Any tricks for installing trailing arm bushings?
I first tried the Porsche OEM rubber bushings with the steel caps - a bargain at $17.50 a piece:eek: . Sat. we just could not get them in. The steel caps from the old bushings would not come out of the trailing arm ends. We tried everything - BIG screwdriver, sledge hammer. No dice. Then we took the steel caps off the new bushings, greased them and still could not even press them into the trailing arm ends. I heard that the Weltmeister plastic bushings go in a lot easier, and at this point, I don't care anymore whether they squeak. So I got a pack of them and plan to try again tomorrow night. Remember, the old steel caps will not come out of the trailing arm ends, but I heard the plastic ones can still fit in there and do so a lot more easily. Anyone try this? What are some tricks? Sat. we couldn't even get a huge c-clamp to press them in. Now engine and tranny reinstall is held up by this job. Please help. Thanks.
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Removing the metal cap can be a bit tricky. But you need to get them out.
Firstly, you need to secure the trailing arm in a vise. It's near impossible if you are chasing it across the garage floor. Second, you need to start the removal using a blunt chisel. Align the chisel through the bore of the trailing arm to push out the opposite side. Put the chisel on the edge of the metal cap. Heat the end of the trailing arm with a propane torch, you are shooting for maybe 180' F. This will expand the aluminum. Now hit the chisel with hammer to drive out the cap. Once it is started 1/8 inch or so you can switch to prying it up from the outside, use two mediun size flatblade screwdrivers to pry opposite side simultaneously. Just be carefull not to nick the aluminum while you are doing all this. |
not a pro.. so I faked the whole thing.. saw the PIA comming.. so I froze the new ones and may have heated the arm with propane/don't remember.. the best frozen would come from some liquid nitrogen.. the non-rubber bushings don't allow 3 dimensional movement of the arm for a street 911.. but I got them in without a press.. scary job...............Ron
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Oh man, that's not what I wanted to hear. I know some folks have been able to do this without removing the trailing arms. I really don't want to take them off and am praying that I can either sufficiently lube or shave the plastic bushings to go in.
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The arms are still in the car? It would be hard to get a good working angle like that.
Remove the arms and life will be easier. |
First question: how do you remove the old ones? Use a Dremel to cut the cap off?
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Richard,
"The arms are still in the car? It would be hard to get a good working angle like that. Remove the arms and life will be easier." I was afraid it would come to this, but don't think it will be necessary if you are using the plastic bushings. I may be up for helping tomorrow evening. The OEM bushings will be impossible to put back together, but I think we can get the plastic ones back in w/o taking the training arms off. Grease and c-clamp method will probably work. If you want to use new OEM bushings, the sleeves will have to come out, necessitating removal of the trailing arms. -Charlie |
Charlie - that's what I wanted to hear. I can't wait to pay you back in sweat when we do this your car. Thanks so much for putting up with this.
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If you go with the factory bushings, drop the arms. Save yourself a lot of hassle. I grabbed the metal sleeve with a bench-mounted vise and spun and wiggled the arms off the sleeves. Piece of cake. Then, we used a hydraulic press to reinstall the new rubber bushings. It took 10 minutes tops.
Jurgen |
Richard,
No problem, I consider it relaxing....believe it or not. |
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