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911 front strut insert removal with strut housing still attached

is it possible to remove the strut insert with the strut housing still attached at the bottom and just swinging it down to access the top of the housing? Ive heard that it can be done.
Old 03-26-2017, 11:15 AM
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I have done that before like you say. I apply masking tape to the fender lip to avoid scratches to the fender.
Old 03-26-2017, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo nut View Post
I have done that before like you say. I apply masking tape to the fender lip to avoid scratches to the fender.
Actually I only heard that it can be done that way. Could you please describe exactly how you did the procedure? I've never done it and just want to avoid removing the entire strut housing from the car. Are there any special tools required? Is there a write up on this site possibly?Thanks for your help!
Old 03-26-2017, 01:10 PM
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The only problem is the brake hose. Be careful not to stress it. With the car jacked up you need to turn the steering to be able to pull the top of the strut clear of the fender. IIRC it works with some fiddling.
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Old 03-26-2017, 01:33 PM
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Yes, it can be done. This writeup helped me replace mine.

Porsche 911 Front Shock €“ Strut Replacement | RVB Precision

Once you loosen the nut in the frunk, compress the strut. You'll have to pull down the top end of the strut enough so that when it springs back up it does not hit the inside of the fender etc. Turn the steering wheel to help as others suggest.

Invest in a pipe wrench. $7 at Harbor Freight. You'll need it to get the cap off the strut housing (and to retighten the cap once you replace your strut insert).
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Last edited by Franks89-911; 03-26-2017 at 06:09 PM..
Old 03-26-2017, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franks89-911 View Post
Yes, it can be done. This writeup helped me replace mine.

Porsche 911 Front Shock – Strut Replacement | RVB Precision

Once you loosen the nut in the frunk, compress the strut. You'll have to pull down the top end of the strut enough so that when it springs back up it does not hit the inside of the fender etc. Turn the steering wheel to help as others suggest.

Invest in a pipe wrench. $7 at Harbor Freight. You'll need it to get the cap off the strut housing (and to retighten the cap once you replace your strut insert).
Thanks ! Im so glad i can do this without removing the housing. Ill be ordering my inserts now so i can get this done myself
Old 03-26-2017, 06:21 PM
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I did this on my 911. Easy peasy. Hardest part was compressing the new strut to get it back in.

Be aware that there may be oil between the insert and the strut housing that will dribble all over your brakes. Be sure you cover the brake disk and caliper to prevent contamination.
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:10 PM
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I leave some oil in the tube to help with heat transfer to the outer tube.
Old 03-26-2017, 10:05 PM
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One of the guys on PFA has just done this task & posted a how to with pictures.

911SC front shockers - Air Cooled 911s - PFA
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ourv12 View Post
Actually I only heard that it can be done that way. Could you please describe exactly how you did the procedure? I've never done it and just want to avoid removing the entire strut housing from the car. Are there any special tools required? Is there a write up on this site possibly?Thanks for your help!
Going strictly from memory:

1. Soak strut insert caps in wd-40 overnight
2. Jack up front, remove front wheels
3. Get pipe wrench, loosen strut cap that holds the strut insert in the strut body
4. Loosen and remove nut in frunk on top of strut. Remove metal disk below nut
5. (I did right one first) turn wheel to right all the way
6. Tape off edge of wheel well with masking tape to prevent scratches
7. Pull top of strut down through body into wheel well, release, making sure when released the strut comes out and away from chassis. ( It will take force to move it and it pops back with surprising speed and force)
7. Remove strut insert.
8. Drain any oil/fluid left in the strut (mine had a ton)
9. Put maybe an ounce or two of oil in the strut for cooling
10. Replace strut insert. Reverse process to complete.
11. Get alignment done.

I also replaced the rubber "bump stop" that was on the strut insert shaft, and the new strut insert comes with new nuts and hardware for the top.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-28-2017, 05:59 AM
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To keep from damaging the brake hose, remove the horseshoe clip and push the metal line through the hole before angling the strut out of the wheel well.
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franks89-911 View Post
Invest in a pipe wrench. $7 at Harbor Freight. You'll need it to get the cap off the strut housing (and to retighten the cap once you replace your strut insert).
If you have bilstein struts, you will need a punch to remove the roll pin that holds the strut insert in. Bilstein struts don't have a nut at the top.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtc View Post
If you have bilstein struts, you will need a punch to remove the roll pin that holds the strut insert in. Bilstein struts don't have a nut at the top.
YES. and do this before you disconnect the strut from the top mount. will make pushing the pin out with a hammer & drift pin easier not having the top of the strut moving around.
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Old 03-28-2017, 02:45 PM
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