need opinion and help on rust

[Trakrat]

OK all... I need suggestions on how to tackle this rust.
Not sure if someone makes replacement parts for this or how to fix this.

The pictures are under the passenger front fender where the oil lines run along. It's rusted pretty badly.
In some of the pics, you can see bright spots that show the inside of the sheet metal that is clean, where the outer sheetmetal completely rusted open
I'm not sure if I'm going to need a complete donor, or where to tackle this at.

[drcoastline]

Trakrat,

Very common rust issue you have. It's a little hard to tell exactly how bad your the rust is from your photos. You should remove the fender and oil lines to inspect and get a better look. You will need to remove these in order to make a repair anyway.

Edit- this is also the bottom of the problem. The real issue is going to be between the flanges above the oil lines.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by drcoastline

Trakrat,

Very common rust issue you have. It's a little hard to tell exactly how bad your the rust is from your photos. You should remove the fender and oil lines to inspect and get a better look. You will need to remove these in order to make a repair anyway.

Thanks... I already plan on doing this... but what I'm trying to understand is if the repair will need me to find a donor part off a car, or is there some site that sells replacement sheetmetal for this?

I plan on taking it to a body shop to have them fix, but need to get the parts to them.

[strudelwagon]

This is what I had!

You can see the piece I removed at the top of the photo
SW

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by strudelwagon

This is what I had!

You can see the piece I removed at the top of the photo
SW

interesting... did you fabricate that sheet metal yourself?
My rust is nearly all along the oil line.
I want to remove it to get a better look, but only will do so after I drive it to the body shop.

I want to make it as original as possible. Yours is obvious that it was patched.

I'm about ready to just have it shipped somewhere to get this work done, as there is NO ONE in the Midwest Kansas area that understands these cars.

[Trakrat]

Does anyone recommend some place to get this repaired?
I live in central Kansas, so I'd like to find some place within 500 miles if possible.

I want to work done to be as close to original as possible.

[911Cabrio]

Trakrat,

I have fabricated and welded in pieces before. Finding a donor car may be difficult.
Sorry, I cant help you with a referral. Trying to find a body shop willing to do rust repairs may be hard. Try to find a Porsche restoration shop.

FYI... chances are the fender flange will be rusted as well.

Good Luck, Bob

[DanielDudley]

Originally Posted by Trakrat

interesting... did you fabricate that sheet metal yourself?
My rust is nearly all along the oil line.
I want to remove it to get a better look, but only will do so after I drive it to the body shop.

I want to make it as original as possible. Yours is obvious that it was patched.

I'm about ready to just have it shipped somewhere to get this work done, as there is NO ONE in the Midwest Kansas area that understands these cars.

It will look a lot better after he grinds the weld.

Contact Matt. His username is Fixer. He does nice work, and his prices are very reasonable.

[Jcslocum]

Jim at Easy might be able to supply the part cut from a donor. SF Bay Area Porsche New & Used Parts || EASY - European Auto Salvage Yard

[jjeffries]

I had to do similar work plus areas at nose where front bumper shock mounts attach to tub. Anyone contemplating this should look at Projects pictures on Classic Carreras, excellent shop in Ireland, where the cars all rust, including the galvanized ones. You will gain a solid understanding of how to approach the work. If you make patches, be sure to use the right gauge metal. Check the car's front cross member sections in front of the gas tank; indeed, removing the tank makes that easier and any welding safer. Can be a long project but worth it. More panels available from Porsche than you might imagine. John in CT.

[Cook&Dunning]

You could also try DC Auto - they will custom cut sheet metal off of a donor car - or sell you the whole inner fender. It looks like Dansk makes an inner fender, too

[E Sully]

Have you looked in the Paint and Bodywork forum?
This thread by Fishcop is a great example.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/545166-restoration-my-69-911-a.html
And DaddyGlen
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/565023-talk-me-through-rust-repair-please.html

Originally Posted by Trakrat

interesting... did you fabricate that sheet metal yourself?
My rust is nearly all along the oil line.
I want to remove it to get a better look, but only will do so after I drive it to the body shop.

I want to make it as original as possible. Yours is obvious that it was patched.

I'm about ready to just have it shipped somewhere to get this work done, as there is NO ONE in the Midwest Kansas area that understands these cars.

At this point it is obvious, but after grinding and sanding it the patch can disappear.
I had no prior experience in metalwork, but have tackled similar issues on my car.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/724391-miles-go-before-i-sleep.html

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by jjeffries

I had to do similar work plus areas at nose where front bumper shock mounts attach to tub. Anyone contemplating this should look at Projects pictures on Classic Carreras, excellent shop in Ireland, where the cars all rust, including the galvanized ones. You will gain a solid understanding of how to approach the work. If you make patches, be sure to use the right gauge metal. Check the car's front cross member sections in front of the gas tank; indeed, removing the tank makes that easier and any welding safer. Can be a long project but worth it. More panels available from Porsche than you might imagine. John in CT.

Thanks for sharing this link!!! It has EXACTLY the kind of work I need to repair on my car!

[bugstrider]

Did you see if this section is available through Restoration Designs in Canada? They have a huge inventory.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[strudelwagon]

Originally Posted by Trakrat

interesting... did you fabricate that sheet metal yourself?
My rust is nearly all along the oil line.
I want to remove it to get a better look, but only will do so after I drive it to the body shop.

I want to make it as original as possible. Yours is obvious that it was patched.

I'm about ready to just have it shipped somewhere to get this work done, as there is NO ONE in the Midwest Kansas area that understands these cars.

Yes, I did fab this piece myself. I tried to do it in one piece but the first attempt was a fail.
matching the contours of the protruding lumps using a stump with carved out contours as a buck did the trick.
Like Red Green says "if she doesn't find you handsome she should at least find you handy"

[speedo]

Originally Posted by Trakrat

Thanks for sharing this link!!! It has EXACTLY the kind of work I need to repair on my car!

Is this from your 1987 Carrera? Or an earlier non-galvanized car?

Speedo

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by speedo

Is this from your 1987 Carrera? Or an earlier non-galvanized car?

Speedo

yes.. from my 87 Carrera. It was a northeastern car which explains the rust accumulating along the right/passenger side. Based on where I've found rust (and where I haven't).... it seems the car was driven after the winter roads had thawed and all of the salt and grime accumulated along the road edges. Meaning, it wasn't driven as a daily driver and driven on only nice days, but seems the previous owners never bothered to wash out the inner fenders once in awhile.

[jjeffries]

Trak....see PM i sent.

[Fixer]

I did a very similar repair a year ago for a Pelican member on his '67. The whole car must be done so this area's temporary paint is just that and will be removed and done right when I do the rest of the car's structure.

Anyway, A mouse nest between the sheet metal held moisture over the years (of barn sitting) and rusted the hell out of his strut tower. He had a donor piece given to him by I think Chris Neilson.

The key is to make the repair Strong as new but when done it can't be detected. And as important, prevent this from reoccurring. I use a lot of zinc enriched primer inside the cavities where making a repair.
Anything else doesn't pass on a 911. It requires experience welding. Spotty sloppy welds not only look bad, they are weak and allow water in. Good welding is watertight, and a good polyurethane paint (Imron) is best and even better than factory under the body Shultz.

Unfortunately, I'm too busy right now to take the car as I have a list of people waiting and limited space under roof.
But if you can wait, I can fix this so you won't be able to detect the repair and would warranty it would not reoccur.













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[nvr2mny]

Trakrat, I live in KC. PM me and I'll give you some names of guys that can do the repairs. They're top notch.