Broke a caliper bolt, now what

[dmcummins]

Well I decided it was time to do the brakes and rotors on the old boxster so I ordered all the parts from pelican of coarse.

Did the rears, no problems, got to the left front and man those caliper bolts were tight. I of coarse grabed my long 1/2" torque wrench and figured that would do the trick.

Well obviously the bolt broke. It started, but continued to be difficult. Then it snapped.

So what am I looking at to get the bolt out? I'm going to just go ahead and call a local wrench and let them fix my screw up. But what's the trick? Both bolts are frozen in there, except one is missing the head.

[sugarwood]

I broke a caliper bolt on a commuter car once. The bolt went through the spindle and then into the caliper bracket.
The spindle hole was not threaded. So, all I had to do was to drift punch the bolt shaft out of the spindle hole.
The caliper bracket slid off with the bolt shaft stuck in it. I replaced that part, since there was no way that busted rusted bolt was even coming out.

Not sure if your car has the same design, but just verify. With the bolt head off, the caliper might come free of the hub/spindle, and come right off.

See how the 2 holes on the left are not threaded?

[sugarwood]

Incidentally, what is less likely to shear a bolt?
Impact wrench or breaker bar?

[Liam O]

Apply heat to the one that isn't broke and drill and re-tap the one that is.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Incidentally, what is less likely to shear a bolt?
Impact wrench or breaker bar?

Far less likely is impact wrench.

Another incidentally, are the caliper bolts stretch bolts?

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by dmcummins

But what's the trick? Both bolts are frozen in there, except one is missing the head.

Big heat. If you ain't got it, pay to have it done.

However, check out what sugarwood suggests on the bolts.

[sugarwood]

Is there any advantage to the breaker bar? Always use impact if you've got it?

[dmcummins]

The caliper bolts to the spindle. I guess ill find out soon. I'll call a shop tomorrow and let them know what I need. I moved down here 3 years ago and have never needed to use anyone so far.

Hopefully they won't mind useing the parts I have already purchased. And will take care of a new customer.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Is there any advantage to the breaker bar? Always use impact if you've got it?

No. Sometimes more torque is needed like on a stubborn front wheel hub nut on the half drive shaft.

I would have probably done what OP did and used a breaker bar. It's a decent size bolt.

Using a breaker bar though takes some "experience" to check out if it's going to work without twisting the bolt shaft off. There is usually some kind of pop as the crud lets loose. When you shear, it moves and there is no noise. It's time to stop and get heat and PB Blaster.

I have twisted plenty off but none or few with an air wrench.

[sugarwood]

Did you get my first reply? You may be able to remove the caliper, since the bolt head is gone... Find out if the spindle is threaded.

[dmcummins]

The spindle is threaded. I could get the caliper off by breaking off the other bolt. But i figured I could drive a few miles with the one bolt still holding the caliper on.

[sugarwood]

I agree it is less stressful to just punt before you make it worse.

But, if the spindle is threaded, then how would you get the caliper off by breaking the other bolt head?
Both bolt shafts will still be threaded into the spindle.

That would be near impossible to remove.
Are you 100% sure the spindle is threaded?

[dmcummins]

The bolts slide through the calipers and screw into the spindle.

The rear bolts were threaded all the way to the head. I'm wondering if they couldn't put two nuts on and with heat be able to back out what's left of the bolt.

[dmcummins]

The caliper bolts to # 1.

[rockerarm]

Hi. Here is some cool technology you may want to consider:

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=edm+to+remove+broken+taps&*&spf=210

Good luck, Bill.

[dmcummins]

I dropped it off at a local shop. They didn't seem like it was a big deal. I'm going to a air show tomorrow, Sun-N-Fun, so they can deal with it.

Hopefully it won't cost to much to fix. After dealing with aircraft shops and mechanics I've gotten kind of numb to repair prices.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by dmcummins

I dropped it off at a local shop. They didn't seem like it was a big deal.

If them peeps are decent MIG welders they can weld a cripple hex head on it. Torch up area with real heat and pop goes the weasel. I have done this successfully and I am pathetic at welding. But I do gots me a welder.

I bet under $200. Have them pop the other side loose as well.

[Dr DIY]

Originally Posted by dmcummins

I of coarse grabed my long 1/2" torque wrench and figured that would do the trick.
.

A torque wrench is a one way item and should NEVER be used to loosen or remove a fastener. It should also be calibrated.

[DaveE]

This happened to me too. I bought a used bearing carrier on eBay.


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[dmcummins]

Originally Posted by Dr DIY

A torque wrench is a one way item and should NEVER be used to loosen or remove a fastener. It should also be calibrated.

It is probably over 35 yrs old and was a cheap model. I have a better one now. I just keep it around for times like this.