Shift Coupler Bushing - Removal & Replacement
 

So, had success in removing the shift coupler this evening. However, when it comes to removing the pin from the coupler to free the old bushings --- no cigar.

Does the lubricant sprays help?

As you can see the bushings are crumbling!


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The pin has to be pressed out. I used a larger diameter socket that fit on the metal part of the coupler- then a smaller on the other side. The challenge was keeping it straight in the vice

pin remaval
 

Hi -Will try and help you with a few tips on removing the pin.
Sorry i can not send photos as i dont have a spare coupler,but will try explain.
First you can not always rely on using your vice,because it has to be a solid base
or of strong steel or similar to stop any bounce when hitting pin.
Another good base to use is a solid wood table with solid vertical legs,you place
the coupler on a end table directly above one table leg ,drill a haif inch hole in center
of leg,place coupler right above it ready for hitting.Last one i did , did not have to
place socket under it, but we have really hard wood here in Australia.
The first thing to do is make two small hard wood wedges about 1inch by half inch,
tapered from about 1/16 to 1/4, tap into the shoulder of coupler, you can see in your 4th from
top photo.This helps to stop breaking or cracking the coupler when you hit the pin.
Then you need a solid round steel bar about 6 inches long comfortable to hold,
slightly less diameter than the axle pin.Then you are ready to belt the pin out
with a good hammer. Solid base is the trick.

I had a piece of thick flat stock steel with a hole drilled in it that I used to remove my pin.

I used something like a Black & Decker Workmate - I think I pushed the pin out through a gap in it or something. Regardless, it does need to be clamped well and the pin pressed out.

Thanks everyone for chiming in with your tips and tricks! Great way to start a Saturday morning --- seeing a bunch of replies --- awesome bunch here.

I used a 1/2 PCV irrigation pipe. Cut about 1.5" long and placed under the coupler (sitting on the side). This way, the pipe wall sits on the bushings, and allows the pin to be punched thru.

On the direct opposite side, I used a 11 or 13 mm socket directly on top of the pin and whacked it w hammer. Gave it a dozen whacks or so, but would not budge.

Will try the combination of your suggestions next.

Thanks again!

Check out this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAD0PoC8mzo

Great video JSV!
Thanks for sharing

Ed's video is great! Just don't have the tools needed --- don't even have a workbench, and vice LOL. That drift he uses will cost me $40 @ Harbor Freight. May be a new $85 coupler from our host is way to go? Figure I can sel my old one for ~ $40???

Would a local auto repair shop have a press to do this for me for say $20 or so?

Perseverance, some creativity, and a little help from Harbor Freight ($7.50 punch set w coupon LOL).
Got the pint out w/o damaging the pin (too much LOL). Next, install the bushing purch'd from our host, and then re-insert the pin... stay tuned!


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I am going to look for that $40.00 HFT drift today at my local store.

OH GEE here is a set of 8 for $8.99??

8 Piece Pin Punch Set

That's the one I bought, the $8.99 set --- $7 and change after coupon/taxes. The laeger diameter punch was enought for the coupler pin.

Got the pin back in.

Problem: does not swing freela as shown in Ed's vedeo belo @ 6:50 mark

What to do?
https://youtu.be/LAD0PoC8mzo

Tried it again --- removed the pin, and re-installed.

My observation:

The pin rotates freely inside the bushings --- not exactly "freely" as in Ed's video, but when I give it some force and move the coupler shaft, I can see that the pint moves inside the bushings.

Cannot see it but seems like the pin is fixed inside the coupler shaft.

Should the pin move freely inside the bushings? Should the pin move freely inside th coupler shaft??

Getting frustrated here, but not giving up!

You got it right the first time. Reinstall and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Ernie

Thank goodness! Appreciate you taking a look Ernie. The shifter ball bushing and the rod bushing are next, then put everything back together.