Alternate front inboard lift point
 

I've been struggling with a Ranger Quick Jack 5000xl to get safe lift point without first getting my 1982SC on ramps. Part of this I believe is due to the car's wheel/tire set up which is more aggressive than stock.

So, I wanted to inquire to those with more knowledge. Can use the pinch weld that runs diagonally (blue in the pic) inboard from the standard lift point at the corner behind the front wheel? I have no AC lines here.

In the rear I can grab the area right below the torsion tube forward of where my aftermarket sway bar mounts.

I appreciate any thoughts.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...427b8d8ed5.jpg

I've used that location a few times, I've noticed a mechanic using it as well. Use something longish like a 2X4 to spread the load. I've also straddled the curve in the pinch weld where it make a turn forward. It doesn't hurt to use some carpet on top of the piece of wood to rest along the pinch weld. Don't use a small area (pin point) to rest the jack because you could bend the pinch weld.

Now days I use the end of the A arm, the curved piece right behind either tow eye.

I run a 3x6 under the front and lift in the middle. Then use jack stands.

Make a pinch weld pad by cutting a groove in a block of wood. Make the groove the correct size and make the block strong. They also sell such things:

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Universal-Slotted-Polyurethane-Protector/dp/B00W2NMO3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492999965&sr=8-1&keywords=pinch+weld+pad

Good luck,
Dave

I use hockey pucks cheap and effective. You can also cut grooves with a miter saw if needed. $10 for a four pack off Amazon.

x2 on the hockey pucks with a groove cut in them. They flex a little too. work great.

Thanks everyone. The Quick Jacks need to be parallel to safely lift. Given their length and other dynamics, my available lift points are limited to what I described in my initial post. I use rubber blocks that have some give but don't squirm under load. I like he idea of cutting a channel to locate with the pinch welds. I just wanted to make sure that the points inboard of the front outer corners did not create issue in stability or with potential damage.

Thanks again for the input.

I use that weld with essentially a hockey puck with a grove cut in it for my scissor lift. It works great. I place a regular hockey puck on the flat area right under the rear torsion bar. It is a solid place to lift the car.

Are you referring to the front diagonal pinch weld in the first part of your reply? Thanks!


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Interested to see what you finally end up doing. I have the same lift but haven't used it yet on the 911. On the 914 it works well because the factory lift points (donuts) are more or less fore / aft from each other so the jacks are parallel. Didn't expect there to be a problem on the 911.

That's exactly where I am lifting my SC with a Quickjack 5000.

Mark B., make sure you have the hoses facing forward.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Pors...862ACA7-X3.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Pors...F81E7D0-X2.jpg

Mark

Mark- that picture is exactly how I have it set up with hoses coming out the front. Thanks for the pictures.

Will,

Sorry I didn't get any photos to you sooner after our email exchange this winter. My car has been sitting on the lift since the fall, but I haven't had much time to work on it.

This thread caused me to run down and finally take a couple of iPhone photos for you.

Mark

Mark-no sweat! A+ service! I appreciate the help.

Will

I'm considering the QuickJack BL-5000SLX for my 79 911SC. Can anyone who owns it advise on which power supply and accessory set-up to get? Mark, would love to know more about your experience. Thanks much! Jg

The front points you're asking about are the ones I use all the time with slotted rubber blocks. Works great.


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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1521834636.JPG