2.7 power loss

[pemz0r]

I had an interesting experience the other night.

I was on the freeway and I had the car pinned around 4k to 6k on and off for about 15 to 20 min or so. The engine started to die and I pulled over. The car couldn't keep idle and it would die. The temperature was 210-220 and it had about 5 bar oil pressure. I let the car sit for 8 minutes, to cool, and started it back up. It idled fine and I was able to drive it back home with no issues. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[Knockdown]

If it was happening on my 2.7, I would start carrying somethings to check ignition components, the coil and CDI unit specifically. Get a baseline when it running ok, and then check when it happens again. Do you have a front fender oil cooler?

[pemz0r]

Yes I do.

I don't know if it matters but it's an E cam 9.5:1 with 40 Webers.

[1QuickS]

Check fuel flow to carbs. Fuel filters also, there is probably one in the bottom of the tank where the fuel line attaches. Sediment in the tank can slowly clog that filter & when you slow down the debris back-flushes and allows a restart. I'd really want to pull that strainer & have a look at it & inside the tank itself; remove fuel level sender & get a flash light to look inside.

I speak from personal experience.

[DanielDudley]

Originally Posted by 1QuickS

Check fuel flow to carbs. Fuel filters also, there is probably one in the bottom of the tank where the fuel line attaches. Sediment in the tank can slowly clog that filter & when you slow down the debris back-flushes and allows a restart. I'd really want to pull that strainer & have a look at it & inside the tank itself; remove fuel level sender & get a flash light to look inside.

I speak from personal experience.

Yep, sure sounds familiar.

[pemz0r]

I wish I would of checked the fuel pressure gauge when it was happening. It's typically set at 5psi.

I have 3 filters that I am using for sure. One filter before the pressure gauge and then I have two Solid State filters screwed in on the PMO fuel bars (one on each side)






1QUICKS - Do you think I have gone to fuel filter happy?

I will check the bottom of the tank tomorrow.

[Joe Bob]

Yeah, first thing I would check is flow. Do you have a return line?

[pemz0r]

I do not have a return fuel line. The car is a stock 1965 with a '74 engine

[1QuickS]

Filtered fuel is good. I use one filter between fuel pump & carbs, it is a CIS filter so it is quite large. Then, I make sure the fuel lines from the filter to the carbs are in good condition.

Webers can ingest crap through an air cleaner with ill-fitting sealing interfaces plus the vent pipes in the top covers typically rust internally & drop flecks of rust into the float bowls. Fuel filters cannot correct for these things.

3 1/2 psi is correct fuel pressure for Webers: I recommend 3 psi to 4 psi as acceptable pressure range values.

Fuel filter (strainer) in tank is where I would look first; pull fuel level sending unit & look at condition inside of tank. I suffered a cruise condition fuel starvation issue; steady fuel delivery would accumulate debris until the strainer would restrict flow to the carbs. Stop & go driving would keep the debris from accumulating so bad.

[Uncle Enzo]

I had the same issue in my 2.7. It would just flat out die on a long drive in the warmer weather. It turned out the coil was getting heat soaked. If the let her cool down it would run fine. I tossed on a new coil and no probs since.