How to install rubber instead of aluminum windshield trim?
 

The last time I installed a windshield on my SC I had a window guy come to my house. I had asked that he bring the kind of rubber strip which you can use instead of the regular aluminum strips. I figured it wouldn't chip.

What I recall is that he installed the windshield in the usual way but without the trim. Then he worked the trim into its groove. Then he shot black rubbery glue or something pretty much all the way around between the gasket and the body on the outside.

It never leaked. But when it came time to remove the windshield (racing does things to them) I found that removing the gasket and this glue or whatever it was also pulled the paint, and sometimes the primer, away from the metal of the body in places. I don't intend to use stuff like that again.

When I got the window in, I went to insert the rubber trim. Well, I tried various ways to insert it, but it was no go at all. Was I dreaming? The window guy was unable to insert this trim in the rear window (which I had installed with no trim - and it still has no trim but has stayed put), so for sure if the slit is squeezed too tight you can't get this rubber piece in (and of course you never can get the stock aluminum trim in with the window in place).

So I took the glass out, and tried to insert the rubber trim on the bench. Well, that, too, was no go. I gave up, dug my old trim out of the crawl space, got a decent install of that into the gasket, and put all that in the car.

But I'd like to know how to install the rubber substitute - I like it better.

Any ideas? Anyone used the rubber trim? One long piece, so only one gap.

I've never heard of a rubber strip used to substitute the alloy trim but if you could find the correct T profile rubber strip then anything is possible.
I'd guess you'd jam it in using a wooden spatula. :confused:

The easiest way to installed flat no alloy trim windows is to go the 993 route. That's glued in with the 993 rubbers/seals.
Really easy & it looks "slick" but to remove a broken windscreen is a bear of a job. The pros use a razor tool with a side pull cable and even then it's not easy.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493712282.jpg

Something like this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493712486.jpg

You could use the rubber welting they use in screen doors and windows inside the groove. It stretches the seal and is available at any hardware store.

Other than the downside of the glue removing paint, the 993 route sounds like good way to get some free stiffness. I'll look into this when I replace mine soon - damn, they get pitted so fast.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 432k miles

I used 10 or 12 gauge wire (it's been 7 years, so I can't remember the exact gauge) and put that into the groove to widen the seal in the same way the trim does. I put the seal around the windshield, put the wire in the seal, and then I installed the entire assembly into the car.

When installed, the wire is almost flush with the seal. Cost next to nothing and was really easy to install.

Why not just use the 964 windshield seal that didn't use the trim strip. It was also used on the '89 Carrera.
Part number is 964-541-225-00, window seal for cars without trim frame


Todd

Well, I use what I have, and that was a regular SC windshield, and a good condition used rubber seal. That was why I save this stuff.

The rubber trim strip I have is a bit hard to describe, but in cross section it is sort of triangular, with the outside leg a bit rounded. Has some small indentations on each side (nothing like the one SC R;uf pictured. I'll see if I can get a cl0se-up, though I haven't had much luck with things that snall.

Windshields have a shortened life on race cars, and the added hassles of gluing things in, or of any higher cost at all, is not the way to go. If it is just to improve the fixation of the glass to the tub (which is what I felt I needed to do, since I don't have those external window hold down fingers, the 12ga wire sounds good if it is easy to lay into that seam. Did you leave the insulation on? Solid core, like house wiring?

I used stranded in the front and solid in the rear. After trying both, I recommend stranded. Stranded is much more flexible. i used black insulation wire and left the insulation in place because it makes the mod almost invisible. Cut the wire to length so that it touches when rapped around the windshield.

I originally wanted to use 964 front and rear windshields with their matching rubber seals, but didn't want to spend the money. So i refinished all my window trim and went about installing them. I sat for hours trying to get the trim into the groove and gave up. That's when I read about the wire trick. I tried it and liked it a lot. It was really easy to install. Maybe took me 10 minutes to install.

I'll try to remember to snap a pic tonight.

In looking for forum posts which might touch on my specific question, I found a piece of advice for getting the aluminum trim bent or rebent to just the right shape. I had been taught to put on the gasket, then lay the trim on the gasket and do the reshaping. When it all lay flat, then work it into the gasket.

The post which caught my eye said that you should lay the trim on the bare glass, and shape it on that. Then install gasket, then trim. Makes sense that you have more control and can get it straighter, especially in the pesky corners, doing it that way.

If I don't use rubber, or insulated wire, and ever have to reinstall a windshield again - which I hope is likely because it will mean I've been doing a fair amount of racing and track driving - I'll try that.

That's not a bad idea.

I was building a retaining wall on my house last night. I had a small window this week where we don't have rain, so I worked until late. Totally forgot to take a picture. i set a reminder in my phone for tonight.

I have a tool that was made to install the rubber beading into the rubber windshield seal.

I will post a picture of it later today.

lorne m.

Ok. Finally remembered to take photos yesterday. Please excuse the dust, the car is in the middle of a complete re-wire, fuel system refurb, and EFI conversion.

The first two pics are close ups of the window with wire in the groove. The third is an overall pic from a few years ago to show how it looks installed.

Neither front or rear windshield has leaked since installing this way in 2010, and I've driven in some serious rain storms. As i said earlier, i can't remember if I used 10 or 12 gauge wire. I'd simply measure the width of the "barb" at the bottom of the trim that expands the seal and get the gauge whose diameter matches that width the best.

I did this for the low cost and ease of installing. I find myself now thinking about polishing my window trim and re-installing it, but if it were a track car, I'd do it this way every time.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493988500.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493988533.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493988560.jpg

Lorne - I'd love to see a picture of the tool you have to install a rubber trim strip.

The wire approach looks like it is about as good as the rubber strip.

this is what was used to install the rubber windshield seal expander.


Lorne M.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494454242.jpg

Lorne - thanks. I take it you have the rubber strip through the diamond shaped hole, and you pull the inserted tool toward the yet to be inserted end of the rubber lying outside of the gasket?

Does the red tool do something?

Yes, the rubber strip feeds thru the hole, the ball end of the red tool is used to open up trim slots and the other for popping the holding clips of the glass trim.

Lorne M.