Bilstein strut instal questions (pics)

[garment]

Hello Pelicans:

I'm installing Bilstein HDs on my '83SC.

A few questions:

1. The struts came with a small rubber collar at the top mount. See pic. I don't think the Boges had this collar. Is this to keep the dust cover secure duing shipping or does the Bilstein differ in this way from the Boge (and therefore I need this collar)?
2. Is there any prep for the rubber o-ring or spindle before installing the oring and spacer ring? A light coat of grease perhaps? Clean the spindle with mineral spirits?
3. Is there a preferred way that the ball joint shaft wedge faces (towards the center of the car?)? Or is it just the case that so long as the wedge pin is lined up properly with the ball joint shaft, that all is well?

Thanks, Pelicans!!

[garment]

Also - I tried a test fit with the roll pin. If I insert the pin "caliper ear" side, it will slide right in. Coming from the other side (with the arm that attaches to the tie rod end) it gets hung up very quickly (about 3/4" sticking out when I encounter the resistance). Is this normal? Into which side should I insert the pin (which should answer my question about the ball joint shaft wedge)?

[zedsn]

I can't answer any of your questions but the roll pin must be installed a certain way or it will break down the road. Look on You Tube for roll pin position for install. There is an older guy that rebuilt his on you tube and it might give you insight on your questions.

[garment]

I think the roll pin is already installed, but I know what you mean. I think the seam of the pin needs to face towards the car centerline.

Originally Posted by zedsn

I can't answer any of your questions but the roll pin must be installed a certain way or it will break down the road. Look on You Tube for roll pin position for install. There is an older guy that rebuilt his on you tube and it might give you insight on your questions.

[Catorce]

1. The collar can stay on.
2. Put on the O ring, then put on the spacer, flange side towards the brake tabs. There is no lubricant required here, but you will need to press the spacer on, or lightly hammer with a drift to seat it correctly.
3. There is only one way for the wedge to face, this will be obvious when you go to assemble the LCA with the strut. Nut on the wedge shaped pin faces in the direction of driving.

[garment]

Thanks.

Regarding the collar - I looked at the PET; it shows a "spacer" at the top of the Bilstein strut, but it also says the spacer is only used until '82, and mine is an '83. Any thoughts if it's still needed?

Also - is it the case I will need to compress the shock prior to install? I ask b/c the strut length is about 26" (top of threads to ball joint mounting point) and I've only got ~21" between the camber plate void in the inner fender to the top of the ball joint shaft.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Catorce

1. The collar can stay on.
2. Put on the O ring, then put on the spacer, flange side towards the brake tabs. There is no lubricant required here, but you will need to press the spacer on, or lightly hammer with a drift to seat it correctly.
3. There is only one way for the wedge to face, this will be obvious when you go to assemble the LCA with the strut. Nut on the wedge shaped pin faces in the direction of driving.

[Catorce]

Originally Posted by garment

Thanks.

Regarding the collar - I looked at the PET; it shows a "spacer" at the top of the Bilstein strut, but it also says the spacer is only used until '82, and mine is an '83. Any thoughts if it's still needed?

Also - is it the case I will need to compress the shock prior to install? I ask b/c the strut length is about 26" (top of threads to ball joint mounting point) and I've only got ~21" between the camber plate void in the inner fender to the top of the ball joint shaft.

Thanks.

The spacer referenced may be referring to the USA ride height spacer that was shipped on the USA only cars. Not needed.

You will need to compress it but it is easy. With the car lifted, and the camber plate installed at the top of the shock, I like to put the camber plate end in first. When it's in its spot, then push up on the lower shock body and compress the shock, guiding it into the ball joint end.

You can compress the shocks easily by leaning on them hard or pushing up. They aren't coilovers, they are dampers.

[garment]

Does the rubber o ring go all the way to the base do the spindle? Or on the shoulder close to the base?

You seem to be quite the strut guru...

Originally Posted by Catorce

1. The collar can stay on.
2. Put on the O ring, then put on the spacer, flange side towards the brake tabs. There is no lubricant required here, but you will need to press the spacer on, or lightly hammer with a drift to seat it correctly.
3. There is only one way for the wedge to face, this will be obvious when you go to assemble the LCA with the strut. Nut on the wedge shaped pin faces in the direction of driving.

[Catorce]

Originally Posted by garment

Does the rubber o ring go all the way to the base do the spindle? Or on the shoulder close to the base?

You seem to be quite the strut guru...

Goes al the way to the base, acts as a seal to prevent grease leaking out, etc.

I have done the job you are doing what feels like a hundred times, I currently own THREE cars that have that suspension of my 8 current porsches, and have rebuilt all three

[garment]

Can you be my psychiatrist as well?

I have the Elephant plated/plugged bars all around. I definitely installed the bars with all markings facing out, but I didn't see a "L" to mark left/drivers side.

Is is the case the fronts are side-specific?

Originally Posted by Catorce

Goes al the way to the base, acts as a seal to prevent grease leaking out, etc.

I have done the job you are doing what feels like a hundred times, I currently own THREE cars that have that suspension of my 8 current porsches, and have rebuilt all three

[Catorce]

It really depends on the bars. I got Sway Away hollow bars, and they are DEFINITELY side specific, however, in the absence of any kind of marking, one has to assume that the bars are generic. Markings, if any, will be stamped on the ends in a way that doesn't require interpretation.

[michael lang]

The Elephant Racing torsion bars that I installed in mine were not side specific so you should be good on that.
If you haven't already done it, install your struts from the top first. I do not remember the strut being short enough to install the bottom first and then the top. It will be easy enough to compress by hand, you should be able to do it by yourself.
FYI, don't be alarmed if when you finish your car looks like it sits up higher than when you started. That's normal, you will just need to readjust your car's ride height.

[garment]

Thanks! Great to know!

Originally Posted by michael lang

The Elephant Racing torsion bars that I installed in mine were not side specific so you should be good on that.
If you haven't already done it, install your struts from the top first. I do not remember the strut being short enough to install the bottom first and then the top. It will be easy enough to compress by hand, you should be able to do it by yourself.
FYI, don't be alarmed if when you finish your car looks like it sits up higher than when you started. That's normal, you will just need to readjust your car's ride height.

[garment]

I'm trying to seat the spacer ring. There is a uniform space around the ring that I think is supposed to go all the way to the base. I can get my fingernail in between the ring and the base of the strut. I've hammered on it pretty hard. Does the spacer ring need to be fully seated?

Originally Posted by Catorce

Goes al the way to the base, acts as a seal to prevent grease leaking out, etc.

I have done the job you are doing what feels like a hundred times, I currently own THREE cars that have that suspension of my 8 current porsches, and have rebuilt all three

[Catorce]

^Can you post a pic? A small gap like that is not a big deal, but I would like to see it.

Don't hammer that piece too hard, it can deform.

[garment]

How's this:

Originally Posted by Catorce

^Can you post a pic? A small gap like that is not a big deal, but I would like to see it.

Don't hammer that piece too hard, it can deform.

[Catorce]

You're good!

[garment]

👍🏼

Thanks!

Originally Posted by catorce

you're good!