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Poll: Do rotors "expire" like tires? Would you replace these?
Rotors on my car are from previous owner.
They are old. I think they are from 2005. Only like 10k miles on them. Lots of meat left. The kind with holes drilled into them. Would you replace them? I'm tempted to replace them, just in case they crack or something. If I replace, should I just get regular rotors? (Not drilled, not slotted) Total cost for 4 Zimm's is like $280 |
I don't see a pic, but I can't imagine rotors with 10k on them are questionable. I wouldn't even consider replacing them based on your description.
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Rotors don't expire, it is just a piece of metal, don't overthink it....
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... from ten years ago? They are probably better...
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Bedding in is the process of wearing the pads and rotors, while causing a film of brake pad material to transfer to the surface of the rotor. There is a process where where one progressively uses the brakes in order for this to occur. occasionally, the wrong type of deposits can be left on the rotor surface, and glazing occurs. Glazing deposits can actually hurt braking performance, and must either be removed or worn off before proper bedding in can occur.
Racers often use rotors for many seasons under extreme conditions. Unless you have real problems with your brakes, keeping your rotors is a no brainer. Buffing the surface of your rotors with scotchbrite, or simply rebedding your pads is a good thing to do. An internet search will give you pad break in procedures that you can follow. Brakes like to be used, and work better when you use them, as long as you aren't riding them while coasting down a mountain, or severely overheating them. |
Just to clarify, I have been using these rotors since 2014. They work fine and are in regular use.
The main reason I considered replacing them is that the inner cooling fins have some surface rust. I can't remember if the drilled holes have any spider web cracks, but I will take another look tonight. http://i65.tinypic.com/24pfi1e.jpg |
That surface rust is completely normal and has a negligible effect on cooling performance in all but the craziest of conditions.
There may be some very high nickel / other alloy content or special e-coated rotors that resist this better but the function would be more cosmetic based than actual performance based. |
The surface rust can be address if you decide to take the rotors out and cleaned them up. Unless your rotors are warped or have some sort of deep surface scratches I would say they are okay.
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i would not replace just because of age.
replace if: too thin groves are too bad warped cracked I am also not a fan of turning them. some manufacturers say theirs cant be turned. Volvo I think it one. most rotors are cheap enough its better to just replace them. |
No chance in hell I ever turn them.
At $70/ea, if I ever remove it, I will just put a new one on. I will measure thickness this weekend. I am looking for an excuse to replace them, LOL. |
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grooveed to 2mm http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494553489.JPGhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494553855.JPG |
My '71 still has the ORIGINAL factory rotors on the rear. The only reason I replaced the fronts is because a PO had them turned at some point.
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Talk about mission creep.
They ain't broke. |
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