Removing flywheel bolts, help

[Paul Valcourt]

I am taking off my flywheel so the seal behind it can be changed. I have the tool for removing them and have wrecked three of them on the last two bolts. The splines in the bolts are still intact but the force required to break them loose is considerable and the splines on the tool bend. I do not have a torch to apply heat so I am thinking of welding a nut to allow use of a socket. Has any one any other ideas other than grinding like sugested in 101 projects.

[dtw]

In my experience an impact wrench is the only way to go with these things.

[dhoward]

...And even with an impact, they're tough. I had the best luck by tightening just a little first, then they spun right out. You're not gonna believe this, but I bought a set of 12 points from autozone, and they haven't shown any sign of twisting.

[dhaines]

On the good bolts, I found that pounding the tool into the nut to get a good seat helped. Can offer no help on the messed up ones.

[Paul Valcourt]

I could use an impact after I weld a nut on. The bolts have inner splines 12mm 12 point and I have not seen a tool like this that works on an impact.

[john walker's workshop]

believe it or not, just hit the top of each bolt head with a big ballpeen, or mallet. not a clawhammer, but something with some heft to it. one hard, sharp wack on each bolt, and they loosen their grip. been doing it for years. works on old vw bus lug bolts too, for what that's worth. the bolts are not re-used so have at it.

[Porschedude]

Was there any Loctite on the bolt that you did pull out? It sounds like whoever put together last, used grade "A" Loctite.

You say the spines on the tool bend? I guess it is the one-piece type. The one I have is hardened steel with a separate adapter to a square drive. I would try to find one of these two-piece sockets.

Do Not weld or apply much heat to the bolts. If you Arc-Weld a nut to the bolt head, you may further bind the bolt to the crankshaft.

I would use a propane torch to heat them up a bit, but nothing hotter that say 300-400 F. This would solidify the Loctite. Don’t use an oxygen/acetylene torch, as it is hard to tell how hot it is actually getting. There are high temp marking stick that you use on the surface to tell how hot you are getting, but it may be difficult to use giving the situation.

Lets hope that you don’t damage the internal bolt drive surface before you get them out.

Best of Luck,

Keith

[Paul Valcourt]

Thanks for the advice, I think I will first try and find another manufacturer of the tool first then will try the ballpeen hammer. After I order some new bolts from wayne.

[Paul Valcourt]

Success, with a better tool and a few wraps of the ballpeen the remaining bolts came out. Thanks again.

[Jim Sims]

Cheers to you and a salute to John Walker! Jim

[HawgRyder]

A small turn on John's idea....get one of those hand impact drivers...it takes a square drive socket or other tool...and when you hit the back end with a mallet..it drives the tool anti-clockwise (or clockwise depending on how it is set) and in at the same time.
I have used these on motorcycle philips head screws for decades (to prevent stripping the screw) and it works great.
The real benefit is that it twists and shocks the bolt at the same time.
Bob

[Superman]

JW is worth his weight in gold, and he's not a small man. I tried to deny it as a younger man but it's true....there's no substitute for experience. Also I have an impact driver like Hawgman described. You cannot work on motorcycles without one. I still use it. Can't recall it ever failing to turn the head of the fastener, when used properly. One or two whacks to seat, and then it makes an offer the fastener cannot refuse.

[speeder]

Guys, Where should I get one of those impact drivers? Does Sears(Craftsman) sell them, or do I need to go upmarket? TIA.

[Doug Zielke]

Originally posted by speeder
Guys, Where should I get one of those impact drivers?

Dennis,
Any m/c shop will have them for sure. They are an absolute must to work on any Asian m/c.

[cary]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
the bolts are not re-used so have at it.

Paul, I just wanted to make sure you understood that this bolts are not reused. None of them.
Just my .02c.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by speeder
Guys, Where should I get one of those impact drivers? Does Sears(Craftsman) sell them, or do I need to go upmarket? TIA.

Harbor Freight has them too. Not as good as Snap-on, of course, but it has worked for me in the few times I've needed it. And I beat the bejusus out of it a couple of times. You can never go wrong with Craftsman, IMHO. It may not speak prestige to have a rollaway full of Craftsman, but so what? I can buy a used decent 3.0 for the difference between Craftsman and Snap-on full set of tools.

Back on topic. I use the impact, but it helps to remember JW's trick. Many sticky bolts respond to a little persuasion

[rcwaldo]

I had the same problem with stuck flywheel bolts. Please get a good quality spline tool (Snap-On calls it a 'triple-square' spline). A small propane torch is good mostly because its tough to get it too hot. Heat it up, whack it good, should come right off.

Chris

[Paul Valcourt]

Cary, I will be replacing the bolts with new ones.

After the fly wheel was off an inspection showed the seal was not leaking but there was evidence on the oil cooler side of the casing of oil and dirt behind the flywheel. The oil was thick an gooy so it was probably there for a while and the seal looked fairly recent as it had no dirt/dust or oil on it. There also was no evidence of oil leaking from the split between the casings so I am thinking the seal was changed and whoever did it never cleaned up the casing.

The first tool I was using was a one piece hex shaft made by Lisle the second one a two piece 1/2 in. drive type, I piced up at NAPA and was one of NAPA's brand name tools. The Lisle tool was definitly not up to the challenge.

[john walker's workshop]

flywheel seals on 911s rarely leak, even after 30 years. aircooled VWs leaked like crazy, but their cases wore out thru the mains, allowing the crank to have radial play, and compromise the seal. must be those 8 main bearings.