Help. Trying to bleed. No fluid coming out.
 

No idea what is wrong.

Open bleed screw.
Helper pumps.
Nothing comes out.

Clutch? Brakes? Headlights?

Nice one! Left handed headlight bleeders.:D

Brakes.

Last year you said you turned the bleeders 1/8 of a turn. Try a 3/8 of a turn.

Bob is the man. As always.

I was opening it, and helper said pedal was down. But I wasn't opening it enough. Why was pedal going down then?

Stay the course. Start over.

Explain what down means. Put that block of wood in there. Set a cadence. "Up" "OK" "Down" "OK" Pedal pumper does nothing without your instructions.

You do not have a problem. You have a familiarity issue.

Please watch the stream as I suggested. I will bet you get a couple of wee burp smidgeons of air.

Make a mess.

The issue was the brake pedal was going down, yet nothing was coming out.
This really confused me.

Anyways, once I opened the bleed screw more, fluid came out.

All done!
Did 10 pumps in the rear, and 5 up front.

I didn't use much fluid at all.
Maybe 1/4 of the liter.

The brake pedal should not be going down without a bleeder valve being open. This warrants further investigation if that is happening. After bleeding you should have a firm pedal that doesn't go down. If its firm, but going down, then you have a leak somewhere. If the pedal is soft (squishy, not firm) and can be pushed down, then you have air in system (a lot if you are able to move the pedal a substantial amount).

Wood, you had the bleed screw open enough to relieve pressure at the pedal/master cylinder, but not enough for fluid to come out (it would have come out eventually - such as if you left the bleed screw open to that amount and came back to the car a little while later - you would have seen weeping at the bleeder.

If the pedal can actually be depressed when the bleed screws are completely seated, and there are no external leaks or any air in the system, then the master cylinder piston seals are leaking internally and letting fluid past the piston (pedal pressure loss).

Yes, that was it. Thanks.
Once I opened it more, the fluid flowed freely.

Once we were done, the pedal was again hard as a rock with the bleeders closed.

2nd round rally, Blue Pills??

Bob K downs those by the fistful, and puts them on doughnuts like sprinkles! :eek:

sugarwood sings:

If you're havin' girl problems, I feel bad for you son
I got 99 problems and my brakes ain't one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495123275.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1ZObiu6kRU

^^^

Ha ha - awesome! :D

speed bleeders

^^^
I have those. But Rawknee showed me the way. (Not that way ya pervs)
20Psi Pressure Bleeder Tool. :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1495125788.jpg

Just make sure the cap is back on before applying the pressure... ;)

bleed
 

I like it! Set pressure regulator to 20PSI and go! Just keep an eye on the fluid level and be sure to drain the pressure before removing the cap! :D

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/8IB15T1LYiY/hqdefault.jpg

I watched that vid. Never picked up on it.

Here's one thing I don't understand: the brake fluid reservoir has some air in it above the max fill level, and it also has a vent hose which you need to clamp before you can pressure-bleed the system. So how come, in normal operation, pushing the brake pedal doesn't just raise the fluid level in the reservoir, even to the point of pushing it out the vent tube?

I just bled my brakes for the first time after replacing my brake light switches. The pedal feels firmer, but I think it's still squishy. Maybe I need to think about the matter cylinder seals...