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 '86 3.2 starts every time runs 1 min then dies So... like I said it starts right up every time and idles perfectly...for about 1 minute then it just dies.  I can keep it running barely with constant throttle playing around.   After about two or three minutes it clears out and runs perfectly for the rest of the day! Put in new plugs and it seemed to be healed the last time I drove it only to do it again today:confused: Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. | 
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 Check and clean idle control valve, also check for vacuum leaks once it is running smooth, take off oil cap and listen for a stumble. If it doesn't, find the leak. | 
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 I agree with obgyn.  Do a search on idle control valve or ICV.  You will see how it works and how some have cleaned theirs.  I eventually had to replace mine.  Pelican has new ones for about $350 IIRC. Good luck, Dave | 
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 Test the head temp sender for proper specs. Sounds like it's choking out. | 
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 If you find it's the head temp sensor, I have a brand new one I bought from Pelican last year, which I didn't end up needing. It's in original packaging. Happy to sell it on at a discount, PM me. | 
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 3.2 starts-dies i had a similar problem with an '89 that had been in long storage - turned out that 3 injectors were "plugged" with fuel varnish - there is a thread about this SmileWavy -  http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/738792-3-2-starts-dies-immediately-all-tests-good.html also check this https://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/531320-carrera-3-2-no-start-big-mystery-2.html also - just google it SmileWavy https://www.google.com/search?q=3.2+starts+dies&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 let us know what the solution is when you solve it | 
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 When I had similar symptoms, it was the common problem of cracked solder joints on the DME.  You may want to try tapping on the DME during this period to see if it affects it one way or the other. Best, Chuck.H '89 TurboLookTarga, 433k miles | 
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 DME Relay. Swap out the DME relay. Gerry | 
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 You must narrow down the problem to fuel or electrical.  When it stumbles, see if a quick shot of ether keeps it going.  If so, you may have a fuel insufficiency caused by clogged injector or fuel filter.  If it does nothing, I'd troubleshoot electrical issues. Go easy on the ether... | 
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 Don't swap ANYTHING unless you already have it laying around. Test Test Test! The things I would want to test right off are: - Cylinder head temp sensor. - Idle Control Valve. (Cleaning it might be a good "while your in there" project.) - Exhaust port temps on startup. (Test with an IR thermometer.) - Fuel pressure. (Test at the left hand injector rail's test port.) A quick search will give you how to do all of these except maybe the exhaust port temperature test. For that get the car up on stands while cold and then fire it up. Immediately get under there and start reading each exhaust port to see if the temperatures are rising evenly. Any serious differences will tell you if you have an issue to chase. A cold cylinder could be miss firing, have a bad injector, or a vacuum leak. The issue could be with an intermittent DME issue where something is iffy until it warms up but I'd put it low on the list. A knee jerk "replace the DME relay" was thrown out but that is really unlikely. If you are testing that the least expensive and most sure way to test is to build a DME test jumper which is just three connectors wired together. You can search on that too. | 
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 Symptoms suggest fuel pump | 
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