Leather deat dye project

[schulr]

Well I have finally started my dye project to restore the seats as well as re-carpet the interior. I started with the passenger seat first as a test case as I have never worked with leather before but felt I had nothing to lose. The seats were in pretty bad shape but no major damage or tears and the price was better then new leather skins.

The attached pictures shows the results of the passenger seat that I came out great considering where I started from. I do have one problem area that I have not been able to get to my liking involving the left bolster where it appears someone in the past rubbed this area repeatedly.

I used the Color-Plus system starting with a good cleaning using their citrus product followed by multiple coatings of their soffener product, then crack filler followed by their surflex dye.

Any advice on how to further improve the area that still shows the cracking? I have gone over this area twice now also using acetone to remove as much of the old dye as possible but it still is not to the level I would like. Maybe this is just as good as it can get short of new skins? I hope not.

Appreciate any advice from you leather experts. I have also asked the fine people at color plus for their input.

Bob

[mrdieseldude]

Watching with baited breath. Make sure to post your findings mate.

Michael

[schulr]

Bump. There must be some experts out there? I really want to get this right and the drivers side is going to be more difficult.

Bob

[pkabush]

I'm far from an expert but I don't think you want to use acetone. It will really dry out the leather. That said your results look amazing. Good luck with the rest of the project.

[DaveMcKenz]

This is not a 911, and I used Leatherique, but the prep is same. I have no before picture but the three pics show progression from initial strip with acetone, more acetone then their softener oil, then dye. Acetone really made the difference. My cracks looked similar to yours. Crack filler will not be durable, BTW. You probably need more acetone and Scotchbrite.
Good luck,
Dave

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by DaveMcKenz

Crack filler will not be durable, BTW.

Contraire, el Dave-a-roonie. Color-Plus Flex-fill is awesome for cracks and is durable. However, "bondo-ing" the mottled area that has been worn into the substrate with Flex-Fill could be far less durable. I have no experience there.

I say work it with scotch-brite or 220 dry paper, knocking down some of the lunar surface appearance will pay dividends before re-dye.

The micro cracks kind of scare me as I had real healthy cracks that were easy to fill then sand.

My thoughts would be as you say. Strip out moisture on previously applied "stuff" with LT or Acet and let dry thoroughly. Perhaps error on the too-dry side of things to open up the cracks a smidgeon. Let dry overnight then apply the flex filler under slight pressure with finger tips. If the filler will not bite into the cracks, may have to live with the imperfection.

Dying twice may be an option if filler will not ingress.

[schulr]

Good idea so I'll give it another go but using LT this time and scotchbrite. Traveling this weekend so will give it a go Tuesday and post results.

[DaveMcKenz]

Thanks, Bob. I'm glad to hear there is a good leather filler: Color-plus flex fill.
Dave

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by DaveMcKenz

Thanks, Bob. I'm glad to hear there is a good leather filler: Color-plus flex fill.
Dave

I like the stuff and applied it ten years ago. Crack(s) that were filled are just fine.

I can see some minor bleed thru of the gray color of the flex fill It's where my larger than your average butt rubs that bottom bolster getting in and out. But the stuff is still flexible and fills out the crack nicely.

schulr has lighter seats. Mine are black. I have read where you can mix a smidgeon of the dye with the grey flex-fill if you wish. schurl does not need to with his lighter color.

Also, just like with bondo and primer, when they say you can work it (apply color) in X hours or X minutes. I would wait a few days.

I have a feeling the micro crack pics schulr posted are related to something not being dry enough or oil (e.g., Color Plus Soffner) still being present.

[schulr]

I discussed further with color plus, Joanne, who had the following advice.

"To me, those "cracks" appear to be an area where the surface color is deteriorating. Those spots are not "cracks", but the surface colorant chipping away. if this is so, it is why you are having trouble in this area. To achieve the best results in this area removing the old crumbling finish with quick-dry (or fast dry) lacquer thinner would be the solution - if the leather has no tear. Then you would lightly sand the surface to smooth it out (if it was obviously rough and patchy), condition again with the Soffener Leather Conditioner, and apply the Surflex in three or four light coats. If approaching it that way, it might be easier to re-do the entire panel to make it look the best. Attached is the booklet, "About Leather". Please read through the section titled, "Complete Leather Refinishing and Recoloring".

I'm back tomorrow so will redo that panel and and post the results in a few days.

Bob

[schulr]

Finished the drivers seat now and it was in worse shape than the passenger seat but still came put pretty good. I still need to go back for a few touch up areas but will do after I finish the carpet install.

BTW, how can you correct a spelling error in the title of this thread? I tried to use the HTML editor but no way to save the change that I could find.



this shows the areas that were cleaned up with acetone and crack filler

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by schulr

this shows the areas that were cleaned up with acetone and crack filler

Looks good.

Joanne suggested lacquer thinner. You used acetone from your commentary.

Not that big of a deal, but why did you choose to deviate?

Edit: Nice looking deats, BTW.

[schulr]

I had acetone on hand and their directions that you could use either. I have to touch up some minor areas so maybe I'll try the LT and see if a difference. Overall, very please with the results. Hope the carpet install will give the same results. Lots of little parts were removed, not looking forward to reassembling the consul.

[Bob Kontak]

I agree. Nice work.

[Pato911]

For those of you that have done seat refinish and/ or recolor, would you recommend doing it with the seat assembled? I have some used seats and was going to completely disassemble, repair foam, repaint frame, etc. Should I refinish and dye the leather skins while off the foam or not?

[schulr]

I suppose it would depend on how much work is needed. I found it helpful to have a firm backing to work with for making repairs and for dyeing. If I had separated the back from the seat it would have been easier to get to the hidden areas but given u won't ever see these areas it's not a big deal.aybe try one with the skin off and see how it comes out. Re dyeing is very forgiving.

[tobluforu]

Questions... I'm going to start off with cleaning, then use Obenaufs oil, after that does one sand or use LT first? What kind of sand paper does one use and what grit. I'm waiting on my dye/filler from colorplus. If I have the steps wrong, please let me know what works best.
Thanks!

[DaveMcKenz]

Acetone...sand...acetone...sand...acetone...etc.
I would use 320-600 grit, and when finished you will have a very smooth surface ready to receive the dye (leather paint). I guess I would use the crack filler after final sand, then sand it where needed depending on it exact instructions.
When you prep very well as above, you may not need as much filler as you thought.
Good luck,
Dave