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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Vancouver
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As title states, snapped an exhaust stud on my quest for SSI's.
The last stud at that. Thought I got lucky until the end. Initially it broke with half an inch sticking out - no problem, threw the stud extractor on but then the inevitable *snap* ![]() Does anyone have a Stomski drilling rig I could borrow or rent? Will cover shipping both ways (have a WA mailing address for my American brethren). Many thanks in advance! |
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PM Sent..
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Vancouver
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Update - huge thanks to brother Mark for lending the tool to a complete stranger completely free of charge.
Really epitomizes this Pelican community - thank you! ![]() Last edited by SkunkWorks; 05-09-2017 at 10:41 AM.. |
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I'm about to tackle this job too, hope I won't need one of those tools but good to know there are nice people still out there willing to lend a hand!
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Kansas
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So how exactly does this tool work? What does the tool do differently from an extractor?
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Does the exact same thing as an extractor- except it positions it perfectly centered on the stud so you don't drill off center or heaven forbid into the head.
Cool design.
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Rutager West 1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown |
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Derrick |
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^ That and screw-type extractors could break off into the stud which would be a huge PITA as they're hardened and incredibad to drill out.
This really took the butt-puckering "don't-drill-into-the-head-otherwise-engine-out-new-heads-required" fears to an acceptable level so a monkey like me could still drill out the old stud, and thread in the new stud with no issues after the threads were chased. Last edited by SkunkWorks; 05-11-2017 at 08:24 AM.. |
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Removing exhaust stud
Once you get a proper hole drilled into the broken stud, it is time for the extractor. You can make the extractor's work much lighter by using a hand held propane torch to heat the head inside the exhaust port next to the broken stud. If you heat the head and the stud still won't come out with reasonable force, heat it a bit hotter. Eventually, you will melt the thread locker and the broken stud will turn right out without any danger of breaking the extractor. Hope this helps.
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FEC3 1980 911SC coupe "Zeus" 3.3SS god of thunder and lightning |
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Location: Houston
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Bravo! Well done.
The Stomski tool saved my heine when I upgraded my headers and snapped two studs.
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Ole Skool - wouldn't have it any other way |
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Glad it worked out!!
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Surely stupid question...... How do you dou when the two studs are broken????
Can you use Stormski tool??? Thank you for your help.... |
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You would still be ahead of the game by using the Stomski tool when both suds are broken because it also uses the exhaust port to center the tool. It would be a little bit of a gamble because you would need to eyeball the guide hole position for drilling but maybe both studs aren't broken right down to the flange surface. The tool allows you to drill straight and centered on the stud. If you are under the car (not on a lift) you could eyeball the center and then use a bottle jack to hold it in position. If you have a lift it would be a little harder to hold the tool centered (I have a 2k# screw jack stand 48" to 72' I use under my lift).
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