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Front wheel bearing on spindle question
I am in the process of redoing my front suspension and in the process was changing the brake rotors and replacing the brake guards on my 1979 930. I took the hub off and was left with the internal bearing on the spindle with the inner cap free. I have never done this project so I am just looking for guidance. My inclination is to use a bearing puller to remove the inner bearing in order to remove the inner guard and then replace the bearing and the inner cap sleeve in the hub for reassembly. I could also replace the bearings if the same time but they actually look good. Is this the right process. I have read other posts and I was under the impression the inner bearings would stay with the hub as I removed it.
Can someone help me with this process?
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 376
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Odd. The bearing should have stayed with the hub since the grease seal is behind the bearing race and is a very tight friction fit in the hub. Your seal must have come out of the hub. You may not need a puller but one should work. I'd be more concerned about how the seal came out. But since you'll have to replace it anyway, just make sure it's very tight. You should not be able to insert it by hand. I just went through this two months ago myself. Good luck.
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
Posts: 7,129
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That inner bearing half should just pull off of the spindle. I would use a couple of tiny screwdrivers to carefully pry at the back of the bearing to get it loose. Try to avoid putting pressure on the roller cage. You are replacing the seal, so I wouldn't worry about damaging the seal.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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That is what I was thinking. I suppose I should just order new bearings and a seal and replace it all then. I tried to just pull the bearings off by hand but they didn't budge.
When I replace the inner seal, is this something that is just tapped in or do I need a special tool or instrument for this? |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
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I've always just used a block of wood to tap in the seal.
I've had bearings stick like yours, but with a little TLC and persuasion they usually come loose. Probably some old grease turned to glue holding it on. Those bearings aren't too pricey, at least not for the NA cars, so if they are original it wouldn't hurt to replace them.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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Thanks for all of the help!
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Burford, ON, Canada
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You still have a lot of parts on there. You can see the rollers in their cage; that should come off easily. Then there is the race beneath that witch seats on the spindle. Then the bearing/hub seal; all of these parts are pieces of the bearing & hub. Then you will see the collar around the spindle, and there is an O-ring inside of it. The collar can often remain on the spindle unless it needs to be replaced. The collar provides the surface for the bearing/hub seal to ride on.
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Keeper of 356, 911, 912 & 914 databases; source for Kardex and CoA-type reports; email for info Researching 356, 911, 912 & 914 Paint codes, Engine #'s and Transmission #'s Addicted since 1975 |
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Join Date: May 2007
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I've never seen a cage come off a good bearing.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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The plot thickens.
I removed the bearing and inner seal which was fused with grease and there appears to be no other parts present on the spindle. No other ring or spacer. The bearing was a tight fit on the spindle but freed with a bearing pulled easily. This is a 79 930 with floating discs... All the diagrams I have show a ring and spacer. Is it possible that these either never had them or were reassembled without them. I have had the car about 15 years but have only driven it about 10,000 miles over that time. The main reason I disassembled the front end was because it started to have a steering wobble at higher speeds. I looked at the front end and all tie rod ends, ball joint, etc.. were all worn so I have replaced everything and the last step was redoing the shocks in the struts and servicing the brakes. The rotors were new when I bought the car so I know it has been apart about 15 years ago. I plan to disassemble the other side after work today to see if its missing the parts as well. Could the lack of this (these) spacer(s) be the cause of a wobble. It possible could explain why the inner seal had backed off. Ideas? ![]()
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So after taking the other side apart, neither side has the o-ring or spacer. From everything I have seen, these were present on all cars including the 79 turbo with floating rotors. Has anyone ever seen these left off? The inner bearing was stuck on the other side as well like the first.
Since I am ordering new spacers, does it matter which brand: Pelican has three options from the generic german oem at 38$, to the rausch&speigel at 44$, and finally the Porsche at 75$... Thanks |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
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You are missing the spacer ring that provides the sealing surface for the hub seal. The O-ring goes over the spindle before installing this spacer to keep the grease from leaking out.
I'm no fan of Rauch & Spiegel stuff so I use Factory parts whenever thats an option.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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Thank you. I will buy the Porsche spacers.
Crazy that these were left off for so long. Sins of the past for sure. |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
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Quote:
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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Join Date: May 2003
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Mine were missing as well.
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What me speed? |
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And installed... I needed a pipe that would slide over and I couldn't find anything to work, then I saw my rear spring plates. Where the rear torsion bar fits into. It's a perfect size to pound home the spacer. Don't forget there is an o-ring around the spindle.
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Thanks!
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From seafeye's other thread on caliper spacers, it appears that the missing ring also locates the inner bearing, thus the hub, and the rotor in turn. It is a critical part to be missing on these two cars.
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Keeper of 356, 911, 912 & 914 databases; source for Kardex and CoA-type reports; email for info Researching 356, 911, 912 & 914 Paint codes, Engine #'s and Transmission #'s Addicted since 1975 |
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I agree. Now looking from that point of view and his post, I am thinking that the caliper will have to mount differently with the appropriate spacers on the spindle. Interestingly there were 2 spacers per bolt for each caliper. The diagrams only show one for 930 calipers. I guess I will have to wait for reassembly to see how they space out.
Can anyone confirm the number and thickness of caliper spacers for a floating rotor 930? |
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