3.2 preventative maintenance
 

I just picked up an 84 Carrera. I can't stop driving this car. In the first two weeks I've put on +1500 miles. I bought it with 91,xxx. Is there anything internally within the engine that should be checked or replaced that could prevent catastrophic failure? Chain tensioner, timing chains, cam sprocket bolts, etc? Thankshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1501543580.jpg

Congrats and welcome! Chain tensioners have been know to fail, but not sure it's a part of "preventative maintenance".. not sure i'd go through the process of pulling the cam covers to check those unless they are leaking at which point you could pull them to replace the gaskets and check them out when you have them off.

Pick up some new belts and or replace the ones you got on there if they look to be drying out if not the spares in the car will save you from a tow. Fuel pump relays along with other relays are good to have in the car.

Enjoy and post up some more pictures!

While the experts chime in....
you might consider a deep maintenance program:
- oil, filter
- adjust valves
- trans oil change
- plugs, maybe consider Magnacor wires
- dist. cap and rotor
- air filter

This gives you some sort of base.

pay careful attention to your oil consumption (as in check the dipstick with the engine running and up to temperature at every fueling). Some (but not all) 3.2 carreras suffer from excessive oil consumption (a quart every 700 miles or less), which requires a top end overhaul to replace worn/defective valve guides.

Also, pick up a cigarette lighter voltmeter and keep an eye out for voltage spikes -- voltage regulators are another (relatively) common point of failure - you may also see your seatbelt light randomly illuminate or your headlights "dim" if your voltage regulator is going south and causing 15-18volt spikes

Chain tensioners on carreras should be a non-issue as they came stock from the factory with the oil-fed "fix"

Nice looking car, enjoy!

Nice ride!

Nice ride - kinda looks like my '84. Ruby Red?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1501549493.jpg

Since picking it up a month ago, I degreased the entire under carriage, changed the oil, trans fluid and flushed the brake fluid. This winter I was going to pull the valve covers and adjust the valves. I'll probably get bored and do it my lunch sooner. I'm itching to get the injectors cleaned and bench tested along with a new rotor and cap.

I have an 89 BMW 325i race car. Last year I had the AFM in that car rebuilt. I literally picked up 13 hp. Needless to say, I'm going to get this one rebuilt as well. It's the exact same unit.

I was more or less concerned about internal components causing catastrophic failures

Check engine bay fuel lines... given their age replacement is needed soon.

Re oil checking... only check oil with the engine hot and refrain from filling above the dipstick (or gauge) mid-point.

Gorgeous. Are the centers of your wheels painted? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1501554114.jpg

This was taken the day I picked it up. I've since removed the window tint

Search out MAF conversion for your 3.2 before investing in a rebuilt AFM.

You'd ditch that archaic AFM and replace it with a MAF, plus new, better atomizing injectors.

Raypratojr,

The wheel centers are silver paint and the outer area is anodized.

Buy a Bentley manual. Go round and clean up every fuse contact, earth point and transmission grounding strap. Check replace Cylinder head temp sensor, speed and reference sensors.

Cylinder head temp sensor, flywheel sensor and distributor. Check the end play on the dizzy, little doesn't matter, it's the overall wear that you want to catch.

Add relays to the various wiring harnesses that are a direct feed like the headlights and dash lights before the car burns to the ground.

OP,

Engine:

I would not worry too much about the Hardware inside the engine, just make certain you change your oil on a regular basis. For the chain tensioner, just keep an ear on them for an unusual noise liken to a chain rattling inside a trash can, that is a sign the tensioner has failed or failing. That would be the time to check the tensioners out. Unfortunately, the new tensioners are a crap shoot, some are defective out of the box.

Rocker Shafts, check these when doing or having the valves adjusted. If they come loose, they will shift and drop a rocker, You do not want this to happen as it may damage the Cam Shaft. Ask me how I know. :D, If they are leaking, which is most likely, re-torque them up to 21 ft lbs. If this is too scary for you get some RSR seals and torque to 18. If you do choose to place RSR shaft seals this would be an opportune time to check the cam mounting nuts as a rocker removal will expose couple of the nuts. If you decide to check the head studs, take extreme care to gradually torque up in thirds to insure you do not snap the OEM divalar lower studs.

Chains, Wait for a complete rebuild and I personally do not like the linkable type, just a weak point, my 2 cents. You have another good 50-75K miles left. Heck, I went 180k miles before my rebuild, Bruce Anderson recommends every 120K. I would not recommend top end only, two issues. Case at the cylinders will be squashed at the lower end and most likely leak. Definitely the IMS bearings will be worn out, both require case to be split or for the case at cylinders at a minimum removal of the rods but machining debris will most likely get into the case, not a good thing.

Again my humble 2 cents ^^^

PMS:

+1 get a spare OEM fanbelt
DME relay and place in the glove box ( not Uro brand )

Give her a fresh start:
Adjust Valves
Change Gear Box Lube
Change Brake Fluid
Fuel Filter
Plugs, Cap and Rotor
Update CHTS

Check all vacuum hoses behind the throttle body, the U routed one tends to tear

Then go drive her and enjoy. Remember to keep her under 3.5K RPMs until she is at operating temps, do not sit and warm up, drive off right away SmileWavy

That's a good one - I installed two relays but of course I forgot so I didn't mention it until now. I also replaced the engine bay fuel lines.

Can you share the contact info for the person/shop that rebuilt the AFM on your BMW?

"rebuilt AFM" as I understand it the potentiometer is NLA, so rebuilds are really cleaning and moving of the sweep arm to a new location. Caution is the tension on the old poteniometer surface as to much will damage it and too little will cause poor drivability.

OP please confirm with your BMW guy if he infact replaces the potentiometer, Purty Please :-)

Well I don't know if you caught the couple of statements in all these posts , but in case you missed both of them , replace your fuel lines, oh your fuel lines and lastly your fuel lines.


Even guys that replace fuel lines often don't replace the small " J " line that's a pain to get to , so that one ruptures and kaboom. Don't get me wrong the stuff posted above is ALL good , but as far as catastrophic failures go , nothing on the Carrera is more catastrophic than when that small fuel line ruptures.

Replace your rubber brake lines in addition to the fuel lines.