Squeak in initial startup
 

Just started motor after too end rebuild. I have a squeak that is not on a normal cadence. I will try to upload a video. Open to thoughts. Not sure if I run it at 2900 rpm like to book days or do I let it idle and track down the squeak. video it too big

Load it on Youtube and post link here.

1st off, did you hand crank it first, maybe 10 times to insure there is no binding?

Where does it say to run at 2900 RPMs, do you mean 2000?

I would not start it until you find the issue, just my 2 cents

Yes typed 2900 instead of 2000. Noise does not change from idle to 2000 rpm. I did crank the engine through a full cycle to double check the ignition timing and no hang up

Have you tried removing the belt to take alternator out of the equation?

Run for 30 seconds to listen for squeek

I just posted it. I think
https://youtu.be/ablQe0lhX9g

I didn't as my fan is a bit quirky. I did put a mechanics stethoscope to the fan housing and it doesn't sound like it is coming from the fan/alternator

Just for the heck of it, remove both belts and start and run car for 30 seconds or less. If squeak goes away. Put one belt on at a time. Trust me this will surprise you.

I removed both belts. No joy. Noise still there. While the belts were off and the engine running, I stepped on the clutch and the noise changed. Makes me think throw out bearing. I am also having trouble getting the clutch cable adjusted. I guess I will do some searches to see what I am doing wrong. May need a new TO bearing and my throw in a new clutch Cable to eliminate issues

Hmmm, have a helper press the clutch as you reach in and feel the fork and TO bearing.

Car off of course.

BR... I know audio recorded by smart phones don't necessarily translate accurately when posting vid. When you listen to vid on YouTube... how accurate is it? Secondly, noise sounds intermittent... is that correct?

Brother Jim... nice idea on removing belts and testing one at a time.

I found the problem
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1502940282.jpg

Dropped the motor, separated the trans fron the engine.

While I'm at it, should I disassemble the fork and lub it all? The pin does not want to be driven out. Also, how many seals? Catalogue looks like only one but I could see putting in 3.

Oh....my....

holy poop batman?

How old is that PP?

Post a pic of the fork and especially the points where it meets the TOB. There are three dust rings, if that is what you are talking about, one above and below inside the bell housing and one outside at where the clutch arm goes.

Houston, we found our problem!!

Damn!

Misinstalled TOB?

This is one for the book.......
 

Brock,

It would help a lot of people if you could find out what went wrong. Was it the TOB or the fork or something else caused it? I don't believe a misaligned TOB could shear those spring sections like that but I am just guessing. What could have sheared them? Thanks.

Tony

Tony,
I too would like to know. I'm happy to explain what I did but don't know how to determine what caused it.

The pressure plate is original with only 32,xxx miles on it.

When I mated the transmission with the engine, I did not get the fork aligned in the TO bearing. It could have happened when the clutch was depressed by forcing the TO bearing too far.

When the clutch did not work, I removed the engine and separated the engine and transmission. As I reassembled it ( with the TO bearing in the fork), I was able to get the engine and trans tight together but for the last 1/2 inch or so. I the used the 4 bolts to snug the 2 together.

As I said, it is possible that the first time together threw the TO bearing out of alignment and the the damage was caused during the second time. The PP was not broken when mating the 2 sides together but it could have been cracked. I don't think so but have no way of knowing.

I did not run the engine after the first install but did after the second install.

Here is a photo of the only damage I can see in the bell housing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1503009953.jpg

To me the fork end look as good as new. Agree?